I looked through the '76 and '78 Gottlieb parts catalog, and that part doesn't seem to be shown. The '78 parts catalog has the So76 and Pioneer playfield layout and parts, but it's not called out on that either.

So... might just have to email a picture and description. Probably a long shot that he'd have it though, since it may be a game-specific part.

This is what I would do if I couldn't find a replacement.

I'd get the smallest machine screw, nut and star washer from my local hardware store. Then I'd drill an appropriate sized hole through the curved metal guide and the broken off L bracket, drilling the hole lower than where the ball will roll.

Then I'd grind down the height of the screw head as flat as possible to keep it a good fastener. Then I'd grind down the diameter of the screw head so it's just a bit bigger than the drilled hole and put it together with the lock washer under the nut.

Something like this:
Untitled-494.png

Do you still have the tabs? If you have access to a metal shop you may be able to get the tabs brazed back on. Back in the day I used to use a product called Metal Set A-4 Epoxy. It's super strong and you can try and use it to affix some brackets as Steve suggested above minus the screw. Obviously the mechanical screw attachment would be stronger, maybe. You could also use countersunk rivets to attach the new brackets, they would be much less visible than a screw head.

The smallest machine head screws are a pain in the ass to find. I went to 3 different places to find them but they are this size. 6X32 @ 1/4th an inch (flat head). You will NOT find them at Home Depot or Lowes. I had to get them at a place called Elliot's Hardware. These are the same screws you use to screw down a ball return gate or a rebound bracket to the upper apron.

Both mine were broken as well and I could not find a replacement but it was a simple fix, Just Solder the 2 tabs back onto the metal horseshoe and use flux and a solder gun that generates a lot of heat. I have played many games on mine and it still holding strong.

Here is a powerful high heat solder gun.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-D650-Industrial-Soldering-Gun/dp/B000JEGEC0/ref=sr_1_8

Ken

Check with Steve Young at PBR.

I've bought this part from him in the past. Not sure if he has it in stock still.

Mike O.
Team-EM

Are these similar to them? I had these made some time ago when I needed more. When I noticed they seem to break a lot, I asked Cliffy to make them with a little thicker material. Looking in my parts manuals, all I could find that may be the part is Part # A-20362 flat rail support clip or maybe A-20365P support post. I'm not sure this is what you need since there is no pic.

Steve

WP_002708.jpg

Solder might discolor your metal? May try a pop rivet. Or like Mike-O says, just buy one.

Hey Todd, Mine came out bright and shiny once I cleaned off the flux residue then polished it. Even if you had some slight discoloration those 3 tabs are pretty much hidden from view because of the Posts and the Plastic.

Ken

The strongest epoxy I've worked with is JB weld. I buy the stuff that sets in 5 minutes. The stuff is so strong and I even used it to fasten rear shock absorbers on a '65 Chevrolet way back when. (Well sorta)

Looks like a nice job and should hold up. My exact 2 tabs were broken in the same place as yours.

Ken

I bought an all new Plastic Set from PBR for mine. If you want to save your next middle plastic here is what someone did to mine after the fact. They got a piece of plexiglass the same thickness as the original and cut it to the same exact shape as the original plastic, then installed that under the original to protect it from the ball poping up and cracking it again, Brilliant!. The acorn nut still has room to attach to the post as well. You will never break that plastic piece again by doing this.

Ken

Turned out GREAT!!!

Congrats. IMO, there is more skill required in a good repair than just replacing parts. I usually opt for part replacement though....soooooo.....yep.

Great job on the repair!

The plastic graphic above my center hole was also broken. I tried gluing a metal stint across the crack but it soon broke again. Investigating, a full force flipper shot straight across the hole's center causes the ball to strike the further upper edge of the hole. The ball hitting the far edge causes it to jump up and strike the plastic. No wonder so many of these are broken.

My absolute fix was to use a spare piece of thin sheet metal about 20 gauge. I used the original plastic as a template and cut the metal to be the same shape and size of the graphic. I drilled 4 post holes in the metal and painted it. I put the metal over the 4 posts, then the plastic graphic then the 4 post nuts. Now the ball occasionally smacks the steel not the plastic.

I could have painted the steel something other than brown but this is what I have:

Hole.jpg

I've used it to repair a hole in an exhaust manifold for an old boat I had. It worked great lol.