Give us some pics to help evaluate.

If you haven't read this -
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#flips
Should give a good idea of the way they should be set up.

The return springs aren't set up correctly, because the linkages aren't resting against the stops. The way they are in the pics, the pawl is opening the EOS switch. When that happens, the high power windings aren't getting power, only the low power (hold) windings will get power from the buttons.

Fix the springs, adjust the EOS switches so that they are firmly closed with the flipper at rest and open at the very end of the stroke. And FILE the EOS points, even though they are new.

One more thing...if you are not skilled at this, rebuild one side and leave the original side alone until you see that the rebuilt side works. Use the old one as an example of what goes where.

The shaft yolk does not appear to be reset to the backstop ie the coil position is fully engaged at rest!! Also do you have sufficient travel in the flipper shaft-the the shafts appear to be deeply set within the yolk.

The coil sleeves are in backwards (as well as having the sleeve 'lip' being on the outside of the coil bracket).

The end of the flipper shaft is usually flush with the bottom of the flipper pawl, not sure why these are sticking so far out.

There's probably a good reference picture available - I'll dig around a bit.

Return spring should be about 1/2 wrap plus a bit more if needed to hold the pawl back to the stop position(the "L" shaped bracket on the bottom of the playfield).

The end of stroke switch should not be in contact with the flipper pawl until in the fully stroked position. Looks like you have the plunger stroked all the way before you actuate the flipper. This puts it full against the stop with no where to go. This also has the end of stroke switch opened which puts the flipper coil in hold power, not flip power, which doesn't really matter because you are backed against the stop.

Here is a picture of what the flippers should look like in the relaxed position.

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1042&picno=54105&zoom=1

And like Dirt said, the coil sleeves are in backwards. The flanged end should be positioned to the other end of the coil against the coil stop.

Mike O.

yeah, there's a good picture!

Also note the top coil bracket and that the non-lipped end of the coil sleeve pokes through that end (closest to the linkage). The coil sleeve slides into the coil from the other end, and the collar of the sleeve sits flush with the plastic base of the coil on the lug end of the coil. The then coil and sleeve fit over the coil stop.

Also, the coils should be mounted in the bracket with the wire lugs away from the coil stop. This helps to reduce broken solder joints on the lugs from vibration.

Sorry, I don't think that's correct for a GTB EM...the GTB parts manuals clearly show the lugs at the coil stop end. The coil is firmly attached on both ends, so if one end is vibrating, the other end, 2 inches away, is probably vibrating too. See the Gold Strike pic that Mike posted above...that's how it was done in the factory and is how the 70's parts manual shows the assembly.

Of course, operationally, it doesn't matter which direction the coil goes, so long as the wires reach.

Ok, it was just a suggestion based on a time proven practice that has worked well for me and others. Do as you wish.

I have never found there to be adequate length on the coil wires to reverse the lugs away from the stop position on a Gottlieb EM.

I've never seen it be an issue on a Gottlieb EM either. Now on a WPC game that's a different story.

Mike O.

Just reading and noting the good folks on Pinside. Value added.

whoa, so clean, I'd like to see the rest of the game sometime, going to semi-restore mine someday!

I'm curious what type of flipper bushing you used. It seems odd that the return spring is bunched up so high, and running into the bottom of the pawl like that. And that the end of the flipper shaft is sticking out so far past the surface of the flipper pawl. I also don't see any side 'ribs' on the bushing.

For a Gottlieb, the bushing should look like this:
bushing1.jpg
bushing2.jpg

And the "short" end goes into the playfield, while the "tall" end is what the return spring slips over. I usually have the best luck with the base of the return spring anchored under the screw closest to the tip of the EOS switch also.

The spring looks fine.

Did you drill out the linkage to fit over the 60's style pawl post? The ones from PBR come with the hole drilled for the 70's style roll pin (like in the picture I posted). They need to be drilled larger to fit over the post.

Between the spring being all bunched up like that, and maybe the linkage being stiff, there's just too much binding. And I'd move the base of the return spring counter-clockwise one screw (so it's held with the screw nearest the tip of the EOS switch).