Chapel Hill, NC
Okay, my PSW10 showed up today and I immediately gutted it. 
I removed all the screws around the amp on the back. Unfortunately, the way it's ported still leaves a wood barrier somewhat between you and the speaker itself and I couldn't tell for sure if the lugs were soldered on or had slide-on connectors, so I pulled the speaker, too. Yep, they were slide-on connectors. You can PROBABLY pull them without taking the speaker out if you're careful and not break anything, but if you want to be sure, best to pull the speaker from the front FIRST. Then unplug it and set it aside. Then pull the screws from the amp and take it out.
At this point my goal was to add it to my Tron LE without making any changes to the amp or the Tron. I've already upgraded the Tron's speakers to Flipper Fidelity, but I still wanted more oomph.
First step was finding 110V. I noticed a couple big wires coming out of the power stuff and heading to the tilt-bob area, and that's where I found a spare 110V plug. (My game had no service outlet, and even if it had, that's not switched power. Probably would have still been fine since the sub has "auto" mode, but since it wasn't an option for me anyway, I found switched power.)
Not exactly sure what that is supposed to be used for, but it's switched power. So I rummaged in my shop and found the mate to it and made this extension cord. Bonus here is I can add a couple more 110V mods if necessary, I guess.
Then I made a simple cable to go from the speaker level inputs to the sub. That was just two wires with male slide-on connectors crimped on them. Then the wires that were supposed to go on the speaker were connected here.
The trickier cable was the one to mate the amp's output because one of its slide-on connectors is a narrow one. The other was wider, but still too narrow for the male pieces I had. So for these I got creative and took ring terminal connectors and simply cut them and reshaped them to fit into the slide-on connectors of the amp. Then I mated those with wire to female slide-on connectors to go to the Flipper Fidelity sub.
Next you just need to adjust the levels. So I put the game in test mode and fired up the first selection, which is a looping piece of music with pretty decent bass. Just adjust your volume knob to suit you, but be warned...the FF sub moves a lot of air, so what sounds good with the cabinet open will be a little bit too much once you close it. It was very easy to rattle the glass on mine. But set it *just* below glass rattling stage and you'll get a much nicer bass sound and feel than you could get with the Stern amp.
Last thing was to add some stand-offs to each corner of the amp face to it will stand on its own. I made my interconnect cables long enough to stick it in the back corner of the cabinet by the power cable outlet. Nice and out of the way back there.
I have no doubts that an external sub will sound better. It will also give you more bass without rattling your glass. And it's an easier mod to do. But I simply wanted to upgrade my bass level some and not have to have something else under my machine to clean around, nor something to disconnect and move separately when I moved the machine. And this is 100% easily reversible later if I decide I don't want it or sell it separate from the machine or whatever.
I believe you could do this mod quite well using a smaller car audio amplifier, too. You'll want something with a level adjustment or you have to figure that part out on your own, but the plus is you could more easily power it off the game's 12V. I don't think you'd want to set it so high that it would draw so much power that it would hurt the 12V output, but that *is* another concern, certainly. I will probably try that route with my MOPLE whenever I get it unboxed, though, as I do happen to have at least one suitable car audio amp, I think. But I doubt you can buy a suitable car audio amp for less than this Polk PSW10, either.
You could probably get away with NOT upgrading your game speakers and simply finding a way to mount the PSW10's speaker in the cabinet. It is a lot bigger, but you either make a wood spacer for the studs in the cabinet -or- remove them and it should still fit. I do think the backbox speaker upgrade is worth it, but I think you can buy just that one separate, or just buy individual speakers and upgrade them yourself. Lots more options here than what I did, certainly.
--Donnie
Sana'a
