(Topic ID: 58134)

New project... Captain Card!

By joestro78

10 years ago


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There are 117 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 10 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

This machine is one of the only AABs that I prefer over the replay version. High Hand sucks. Captain Card is amazing!

Okay, so we have all heard about how High Hand sucks because the drop targets never reset. Can you explain exactly how Capt. Card does reset the drops? I see the Center hole and two outlanes are WOWs. Does it reset upon scoring a WOW, or does it reset upon draining? I know some WOW games don't reset the WOW until scored. Then, its stays lit the rest of the ball but resets the sequence upon draining.

Does Capt. Card Divide the DT banks for different lighting of the WOWs? Or do you still have to complete all 16 targets to light all three WOWs? Do the WOWs alternate on and off like the Specials do on HH?

#52 10 years ago

Briefly.

Knock down 16 drops. Wows light for rest of ball.

As soon as you drain all 16 re-set.

Think that is it!

#53 10 years ago

I am so damned pleased with myself right now! sneak peak!
I was doing some final sanding tonight, and look how much shine I've got coming off that playfield! No, it's not the most professional playfield restore in the world, the USA or even in Texas. But I am SUPER pleased with the way this is turning out!
So, for those keeping score at home, I used 600 and then 1200 grit sandpaper on my final clearcoat after having let it dry until I couldn't smell it any more. I'll take pics during the reassembly.

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#54 10 years ago

looks killer... keep posting !

#55 9 years ago

So, I need to do some backglass repair since everything else is getting a spit shine anyway. I know there are a few different techniques people use, but which is the most effective? The flaking seems to be just the oranges of the art.
Can someone provide a link to the best process?

#56 9 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

I know there are a few different techniques people use, but which is the most effective? The flaking seems to be just the oranges of the art.
Can someone provide a link to the best process?

Have a new one made.

bgresto.com

Ken

#57 9 years ago
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:

Have a new one made.
bgresto.com
Ken

Their work looks great. Any idea on price or timeframe?

#58 9 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

Their work looks great. Any idea on price or timeframe?

I bought a 1973 Williams Gulfstream a while back and the quality is great. If you put in an order now most likely 3-4 week turnaround for around $250.00 delivered.

I will buy a 1971 Williams Klondike glass from them in about 6 months as well.

Ken

#59 9 years ago

This gets you as far as sealing and protecting.

#60 9 years ago

Let see ya pull the cling wrap ...

#61 9 years ago
Quoted from Gerry:

Let see ya pull the cling wrap ...

What are you saying?!

I am planning to do this but never done it - heard after 48 hours cling film comes off easily?

#62 9 years ago

Here's a pic of my CC BG from bgresto. 2 month process from order placement to delivery. Its a great product but the BG transmits less light than the original. I use cointaker's ultra bright warm white LEDs and that works really well.image-457.jpgimage-457.jpg

#63 9 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

What are you saying?!
I am planning to do this but never done it - heard after 48 hours cling film comes off easily?

I wasnt trying to be a dick, just durious if the cling wrap would actually come off...

i have tried a couple of spot repairs with triple thick, and that shit is STICKY..

and i would think it may lift off that previously lifting BG paint still...

#64 9 years ago

I've sprayed really badly flaking backglasses with Triple Thick and then put Saran Wrap over it, then layered plywood on top of that. Let it sit for a couple days, and then the cling wrap just peels off. Doesn't bring up anything with. The key is to just let it sit and dry fully.

#65 9 years ago

I've peeled the cling film off after an hour without any problem. Probably best to leave it overnight for safety. I always mask the windows, that comes off much better if left until next day. Triple Thick is weird stuff, how it dries. It is still pliable after it has dried, which it does in about 15 minutes on a warmish day. If I try to remove the masking tape while the TT is still flexible, it tries to peel the TT with it. Next day, when it has fully hardened, the tape comes off leaving perfect edges. After about three days, what looked like a really thick coat pulls back to what looks like a very thin coat. Every key line and colour area in the BG can be clearly seen from the back side. There is one thing I don't like about using cling film and a weight. It is virtually impossible to lay the film on the TT smoothly. It is such awkward stuff to handle, that getting all the wrinkles out is very difficult. This leaves all those wrinkle and edge of the film marks in the Triple Thick. They do get less obvious as the coat pulls back, and they don't appear visible from the front of the glass, but it doesn't look pretty from the back.
Another method I've used, because it dries but is still flexible, is to lay a coat, leave it to dry for ten minutes or so, and then use a wallpaper joint roller to flatten any peeling ink areas that stand proud. It's quite easy to flatten them, and any bowed up areas of ink, back down on to the glass. Once everything is nice & flat, I throw a couple more heavy coats on and let it all dry. It seems to work for me. If you try it, make sure the first coat is no longer sticky before rolling, otherwise the the coat will stick to the roller, lifting the ink with it. I had that happen on my first experiment, so I flattened it back down, let the coat dry a little more, re rolled it. After it had all hardened, I couldn't see it had happened at all.

#66 9 years ago

Here's another question... I'm not the owner that pulled the plastics from the playfield, so I'm not sure how the plastic is set up in this area. Does anyone have a picture of this spot? That would be of great help. And thanks for the backglass advice!

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#67 9 years ago

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I believe pinballrescue will be making repro plastics for CC this year, FYI.

#68 9 years ago

New plastics? That would be great!
Thanks for posting the pics. So does the post nearest the back have the clear plastic resting on it about halfway down and on top rests the main plastic?

#69 9 years ago

Yep, that's how it goes.
I spoke with Lee of pinballrescue and he couldn't give me a timeframe but did say that they were doing them this year.
They'll be listed as Top Hand plastics I believe.

#70 9 years ago
Quoted from beadwindow:

Yep, that's how it goes.
I spoke with Lee of pinballrescue and he couldn't give me a timeframe but did say that they were doing them this year.
They'll be listed as Top Hand plastics I believe.

Repro plastics? That's great news. My High hand needs them badly. Pinball Rescue makes some good quality stuff.
Top hand is the Italian version of Captain card. The USA replay version is High hand.

... Unless the Top hand they are referring to is the Williams version.

#71 9 years ago

Some reassembly thus far...

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#72 9 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

Some reassembly thus far...

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Looking good! No mylar protectors around pop bumpers though?

- Tim

#73 9 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Looking good! No mylar protectors around pop bumpers though?
- Tim

I haven't secured the bumper down yet, but I was considering the guard. Do I need to use one with the clearcoat being on there?

#74 9 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

I haven't secured the bumper down yet, but I was considering the guard. Do I need to use one with the clearcoat being on there?

I was thinking the same thing having the clear coat, but then thought with it looking so beautiful why take the chance.

Looks fantastic!!!!

#75 9 years ago

Shouldn't the top of drop targets be flush/even with the playfield, in the down position?

#76 9 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Repro plastics? That's great news. My High hand needs them badly. Pinball Rescue makes some good quality stuff.
Top hand is the Italian version of Captain card. The USA replay version is High hand.
... Unless the Top hand they are referring to is the Williams version.

I'd asked for HH/CC and he said yes, Top Hand plastics would be made so I'm assuming me knew all 3 are the same.
Plus AFAIK they've only done GTB plastics.

#77 9 years ago
Quoted from beadwindow:

I'd asked for HH/CC and he said yes, Top Hand plastics would be made so I'm assuming me knew all 3 are the same.
Plus AFAIK they've only done GTB plastics.

Yeah, I asked too. You would think if they wanted to sell more then they would advertise that these fit all three of the Gottlieb games instead of just the Italian version.

#78 9 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

I haven't secured the bumper down yet, but I was considering the guard. Do I need to use one with the clearcoat being on there?

Personally speaking, I've always used bumper mylar protectors on all my games (cleared or not) and would recommend them. I know that there have been past threads on this subject (as well as adhesive vs. non-adhesive)on Pinside and/or RGP, if you wish to look them up and see others' opinions.

Thanks for posting pics of your Captain Card restoration to date. I'm looking forward to seeing more shots when it's all done!

- Tim

#79 9 years ago
Quoted from pinwiztom:

Shouldn't the top of drop targets be flush/even with the playfield, in the down position?

Yeah, that's just because of the way I have it propped at the moment. It puts pressure on the bottom of the targets.

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Personally speaking, I've always used bumper mylar protectors on all my games (cleared or not) and would recommend them. I know that there have been past threads on this subject (as well as adhesive vs. non-adhesive)on Pinside and/or RGP, if you wish to look them up and see others' opinions.
Thanks for posting pics of your Captain Card restoration to date. I'm looking forward to seeing more shots when it's all done!
- Tim

I think I'll go with the guards then. It sure can't hurt!

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#80 9 years ago
Quoted from ChilePin:

What are you using for the Clearcoat?

Above pic is what I'm using for clear.

#81 9 years ago

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#82 9 years ago

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#83 9 years ago

Not much left on the playfield to do. I am though going to:
Clean drop target assemblies
Touch up gold paint on targets
Mylar front of targets

I think after that it's just paint on the cab and I'm done. I'm still trying to decide on finances concerning the backglass.

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#84 9 years ago

That turned out very nice. Can't wait to play it at some point... Or if you ever sell I may just have to pick up another pin from you...

-- Shawn

#85 9 years ago
Quoted from DallasPinball:

That turned out very nice. Can't wait to play it at some point... Or if you ever sell I may just have to pick up another pin from you...
-- Shawn

Damn it Shawn!

Stop buying pins that will simply end up in your storage unit!

Marcus

#86 9 years ago
Quoted from Xerico:

Damn it Shawn!

Stop buying pins that will simply end up in your storage unit!

thumbs up!

they should end up in my storage unit!

--Jeff

#87 9 years ago
Quoted from DallasPinball:

That turned out very nice. Can't wait to play it at some point... Or if you ever sell I may just have to pick up another pin from you...
-- Shawn

There's no way you have any room left after the games you picked up in Oklahoma. Nice looking shooter, btw.

#88 9 years ago

Getting so, so, so close. I really hope to be done in around a week....

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#89 9 years ago

And I also need to give a shout out to Ken "The EM King of Texas" for selling me a lockdown bar that should arrive this week! Those things are HARD to find!

#90 9 years ago

http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?PageIndex=3&ProductID=122

FYI - Twisted pins offers a stencil kit for this pin. Am almost to that stage in my High hand restoration. Just finished up the base coat on the backbox & plan on spattering it tomorrow. Will order the stencils once I sell enough useless crap on Ebay to cover it.
I think that Captain card / High hand has one of the best looking paint schemes in all of pinball.

#91 9 years ago

That's really not a crazy price compared to some of the kits I've seen. And I agree; this particular EM does have a very nice paint scheme.

#92 9 years ago

Some drop target before and after...

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#93 9 years ago

That a home made paint fix on those drops, or are they aftermarket? Look nice!

#94 9 years ago

I just used some Testors gold to touch up and then cut and laid mylar over them.

#95 9 years ago

nice bump

#96 9 years ago

Ken is the man! The lockdown bar that he sold me will be included in the pics I hopefully post this weekend of a complete standing machine

#97 9 years ago

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#98 9 years ago

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#99 9 years ago

Did you use the twisted pin stencils?

#100 9 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Did you use the twisted pin stencils?

Actually, the ones I used were homemade. We used images of the trim and measured the dimensions of the machine. My wife then cleaned up the images and made them proportion to the proper size. After that it was just a matter of cutting stencils for the machine from car vinyl using a plotter.

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There are 117 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.

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