(Topic ID: 58134)

New project... Captain Card!

By joestro78

10 years ago


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There are 117 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 10 years ago

I'm excited to get started on the new project I traded for today. Captain Card should fulfill all of my drop target dreams!
Now, if I can find a 2001 pin, my EM collection will be just how I want it.

image.jpgimage.jpg

#2 10 years ago

Great find!

Now here's your other pin.

scranton.craigslist.org link

Ken

#3 10 years ago

Never played a Capt Card. I can tell you that my High Hand, which is a players example, gets a lot of attention in my collection. I hope you find it a challanging game, losing your bonus on a SDTM drain can be very frustrating.

#4 10 years ago

Definitely a keeper.
New rubbers installed behind the targets will keep you on your toes.

#6 10 years ago

that is awesome..do the drop targets reset?

#7 10 years ago

That is why I want CC over High Hand - re-setting of drop targets.

Nice find

#8 10 years ago

Yeah, the resetting targets are a really cool feature for an older game.

4 months later
#9 10 years ago

Slowly getting there!

image.jpgimage.jpg
#10 10 years ago

Nice. I am in the mechanical restore stage on my High hand. I like the resetting drops on capt card & have seen people modify high hand to do the same. May have to do that on mine..... maybe use a Jones plug or some such to wire it so I can easily switch between standard & resetting.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Nice. I am in the mechanical restore stage on my High hand. I like the resetting drops on capt card & have seen people modify by to do the same. May have to do that on mine..... maybe use a Jones plug or some such to wire it so I can easily switch between standard & resetting.

I don't see why that wouldn't work and it shouldn't be too hard.

-1
#12 10 years ago

I hope not. Damn, that's a fine looking playfield. Wish mine was even close to that condition.

Oh well, at least it will give me some practice on touch ups-- have an acre or two of bare wood on mine.

1 week later
#13 10 years ago

Almost to touching black outlines and then it's off to the races!

image.jpgimage.jpg
#14 10 years ago

"Capt. Card" is perhaps the most humbling EM pin ever. You can have some real stinker games on it, and then you can turn around and really kick butt on it! The strategy is to get the targets down in groups and avoid SDTM at all cost! Bonus collection, especially for completed suits is key to beating this game. You get nothing for draining down the middle.

2 weeks later
#15 10 years ago

First coat! Then some sanding, a few more touchups and filling inserts!

image.jpgimage.jpg
#16 10 years ago

That is a fabulous job to date looks great. Would you mind just setting out the process you have adopted once the pf was stripped. We can learn from your expertise. Thks.

#17 10 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

"Capt. Card" is perhaps the most humbling EM pin ever. You can have some real stinker games on it, and then you can turn around and really kick butt on it! The strategy is to get the targets down in groups and avoid SDTM at all cost! Bonus collection, especially for completed suits is key to beating this game. You get nothing for draining down the middle.

Is it just me or does this game drain more than any other 70's game? Kind of like a figure of 8 - ball swirls around and drains before it hits a flipper! Hardest 70's game I have played - good for home use though! Very addictive but some scores are so low it is embarrassing

#18 10 years ago

If you are spraying a clear (?) I would change a couple things you did. I use a little wad of painter's tape in the bulb sockets so they can be below the surface. I would also remove the flipper bushings and the anti-bounce back wires so you can really sand the whole thing. Most importantly, it will allow the finish to be applied more uniformly. Great game, you will love the way it plays if you have a smooth surface with the inserts leveled! Makes me miss mine......

#19 10 years ago

Expertise is a strong word, but thanks
First in the process was removing all of the old touchups that were done from a previous previous owner. They weren't the worst, but the color matching wasn't great and they used some thick paint to apply it. I did that with just some Simple Green and Magic Eraser.
Next I used paints recommended by Vid in his excellent restoration thread. They are Createx paint and I purchased them from Amazon. Some of the areas I airbrushed and some were applied with a brush. The greatest things I've found with Createx paint is that it is the right consistency to do either.
I have read that most people put a coat of clear before doing any touchups. I went ahead and did large areas first so that I could go back later and do the more detailed areas after the first coat. Also, I want to see any areas that will need filling once I sand down my first coat.
One note about the white. I didn't want to try to match the old, yellowed white that was on there, so I am reapplying all of the white areas. I wanted an eggshell color so I used mostly straight white with a hint of orange and red. It really gives it the slightest pink undertone.
I plan to load pics as I go through this process to help determine what worked and what didn't.
Here are a couple of pics of this machine when I first got it. Notice the sharp contrast in the sea foam green of prior touchups.

image.jpgimage.jpg image-279.jpgimage-279.jpg
#20 10 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

If you are spraying a clear (?) I would change a couple things you did. I use a little wad of painter's tape in the bulb sockets so they can be below the surface. I would also remove the flipper bushings and the anti-bounce back wires so you can really sand the whole thing. Most importantly, it will allow the finish to be applied more uniformly. Great game, you will love the way it plays if you have a smooth surface with the inserts leveled! Makes me miss mine......

Do you go with tape in the sockets? I had read to put old bulbs in there but I can always change it after this first coat. The first coat has been very kind to me... Haha... No fish eyes that I see so I must have decently cleaned it.

#21 10 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Is it just me or does this game drain more than any other 70's game?

Hard to master i agree.

Quoted from Shapeshifter:Very addictive but some scores are so low it is embarrassing

Humbles you to say the least,playing it without hitting the a~a~b at the set score tests my patience.
Especially the penalty on tilting, its the icing on the cake.

#22 10 years ago

Hey, I'm going to touch up my High hand soon, can you tell me what paint color #'s you used?

#23 10 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

Expertise is a strong word, but thanks
First in the process was removing all of the old touchups that were done from a previous previous owner. They weren't the worst, but the color matching wasn't great and they used some thick paint to apply it. I did that with just some Simple Green and Magic Eraser.
Next I used paints recommended by Vid in his excellent restoration thread. They are Createx paint and I purchased them from Amazon. Some of the areas I airbrushed and some were applied with a brush. The greatest things I've found with Createx paint is that it is the right consistency to do either.
I have read that most people put a coat of clear before doing any touchups. I went ahead and did large areas first so that I could go back later and do the more detailed areas after the first coat. Also, I want to see any areas that will need filling once I sand down my first coat.
One note about the white. I didn't want to try to match the old, yellowed white that was on there, so I am reapplying all of the white areas. I wanted an eggshell color so I used mostly straight white with a hint of orange and red. It really gives it the slightest pink undertone.
I plan to load pics as I go through this process to help determine what worked and what didn't.
Here are a couple of pics of this machine when I first got it. Notice the sharp contrast in the sea foam green of prior touchups.

image.jpg 168 KB

image-279.jpg 203 KB

Thks that's really helpful. I will eagerly await further progress posts.

#24 10 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Hey, I'm going to touch up my High hand soon, can you tell me what paint color #'s you used?

I didn't use any paint numbers actually. Everything I mixed through trial and error although I did learn something important; the bold colors on this playfield were much brighter than I first thought them to be. For example, the reds were not best matched with a main red base. For best results, my base was yellow and I added red to that.

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Hard to master i agree.

Humbles you to say the least,playing it without hitting the a~a~b at the set score tests my patience.
Especially the penalty on tilting, its the icing on the cake.

Any tips for set up? Got it fairly steep but only on regular coils. Hi tapped but it is not super quick. Quick enough so it can hit the KO hole.

Great game but just played a game and scored 10 points off the first 2 balls and finished with 6000! The drains seems very harsh. Keeping it as it entices you to come back and beat it. But the family not too impressed as it's too hard for them!

#26 10 years ago

I have never seen this title. Looks very cool for the era. Nice find.

#27 10 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Any tips for set up? Got it fairly steep but only on regular coils.

Keep your Eos and other contacts for your pop bumper and flippers clean and well gapped ,i wouldnt get high powered flipper coils for it,too much a risk of breaking plastics.
Index the return springs for the flippers at minimal return (but not too loose)which will give ample power,i put a thin smear of superlube on the flipper shaft/nylon bushing. And i usually pitch them about 5-1/2 +/- degrees.

#28 10 years ago
Quoted from Pin-it:

Keep your Eos and other contacts for your pop bumper and flippers clean and well gapped ,i wouldnt get high powered flipper coils for it,too much a risk of breaking plastics.
Index the return springs for the flippers at minimal return (but not too loose)which will give ample power,i put a thin smear of superlube on the flipper shaft/nylon bushing. And i usually pitch them about 5-1/2 +/- degrees.

Thanks for tips.

Do you use an inclinometer to measure the degrees? Thinking of buying one.

#29 10 years ago

Use one of these for pitch. http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-700-Magnetic/dp/B00004T807

Or if you have an android/i phone app can be used too.
The kindle i have has an app i use too that works fine,but i like the old school one myself.

51MKAMEJ9AL._SY450_.jpg51MKAMEJ9AL._SY450_.jpg
#30 10 years ago

Bit more expensive than digital ones, but is it easy to use? Never used one, seen one before!

#31 10 years ago

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-torpedo-level/p-00948295000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7

Best 35 dollars ever spent. Use it for leveling and pitch. I love this thing!

#32 10 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Bit more expensive than digital ones, but is it easy to use? Never used one, seen one before!

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#33 10 years ago

Inserts filled with poly. I just used a Johnson & Johnson baby dropper and a toothpick to get out air bubbles. I'm not worried about the black insert rings looking nice because I plan to address that in my next step.

image.jpgimage.jpg image-244.jpgimage-244.jpg
#34 10 years ago
Quoted from joestro78:

Inserts filled with poly. I just used a Johnson & Johnson baby dropper and a toothpick to get out air bubbles. I'm not worried about the black insert rings looking nice because I plan to address that in my next step.

Does that "poly" dry water clear? I have a "Flip A Card" PF with woefully sunken inserts, but nice otherwise. This seems like a reasonably easy way to address the problem. "FAC" has so many damn inserts, and many are heavily obstructed from below.

#35 10 years ago

So far, so good. The poly is clearing as it is drying. I also don't mind yellowing from the poly as the inserts themselves are amber in color anyway.

#36 10 years ago

Thks great progress info. Would you clarify 'poly' pls. That is what is it and how do you apply it. Also it would be good to see the extent to which the poly has 'cleared'. Thks so much.

#37 10 years ago

Here's an insert after drying for about twenty hours. Poly refers to polyacrylic which is a clearcoat chemical.

image.jpgimage.jpg
3 weeks later
#38 10 years ago

Joestro,
How's this project going? I just picked up a Capt Card after searching for a long time. Many more High Hands came up for sale but I'm an AAB fan plus resetting targets are a huge plus. Anyway, I'd like to touch up some wear areas on my playfield which is in pretty good shape overall. Thanks for the info and pics.

#39 10 years ago

+1 Best level for pins.

#40 10 years ago

I think I'm good with the main center of the playfield now.

image.jpgimage.jpg
#41 10 years ago

Looks very nice. Thanks for the update.

#42 10 years ago

Joey that is looking great.

After you filled the poly in the inserts did you just sand it down before the clear?

--Jeff

#43 10 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

Joey that is looking great.
After you filled the poly in the inserts did you just sand it down before the clear?
--Jeff

Yeah, I put my initial coat of clear on and then filled and sanded the inserts. When we get a couple days of nicer weather, I'm going to do my final coats of clear.

1 month later
#44 10 years ago

I finally had the perfect storm (or rather, non-storm) of a weekend to do some clearcoating. Soon she will get the final sand and polish and then on to reassembly!

image.jpgimage.jpg
3 weeks later
#46 9 years ago

Cabinet disassembling and prep... Holla!

image-259.jpgimage-259.jpg
#47 9 years ago

Cool nice job..AAB baby !

#48 9 years ago

This machine is one of the only AABs that I prefer over the replay version. High Hand sucks. Captain Card is amazing!

#49 9 years ago

high hand gets boring in short order.. agreed !

#50 9 years ago

What are you using for the Clearcoat?

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