Ok here is part of the tutorial I promised. But, first:
Disclaimer: I’m not at all qualified in electronics or modifications. I just like to tinker, so do this at your own risk. I’m not responsible if you cause damage or injury to yourself, anyone else or any property. Anyone, feel free to chime in if you see I am doing something I shouldn’t be. Feel free to also chime in if you have a better or easier way to do any of these steps.
Remove landing skids and set aside.
1RemovePads-296.JPG
Drill rivets out. I used a 5/32 bit, but anything close should work. The way I did this was drill a little at a time and prying lightly until it comes apart. After it pries open, all kinds of parts will start falling out. Don’t worry about the order. Just put everything aside. It will go back together easy later. The windows have a light glue on them. Just pry those off and set aside with the other parts.
2DrillRivets.JPG
3DrillRivets2.JPG
4Prying.JPG
5PryWindows.JPG
Put the 2 helicopter sides back together and drill a 5/32 (or close) hole on top where the propeller sits. This step might not be necessary but, it gives you some slop or more room for the motor shaft later when you put everything back together. It would suck if you put it back together with JB Weld and the motor shaft is rubbing the original size hole.
6DrillHole.JPG
Make a hole at the rear of the helicopter for exiting wires. I don’t have a specific size for the hole. Just make it big enough for 2 wires at about 24 gauge to come through it. The easiest way I found to make the hole was using a bench grinder as in the picture. File the hole so there are no sharp edges that could short your wires. I thought about putting a rubber grommet in the hole, but I didn’t have one. I did this with parts I had laying around the house.
7GrindRearHole.JPG8FileThisSmooth.JPG9FileRear.JPG10Filed.JPG
This next step will depend on what motor you choose to use. If you find a small enough motor, you probably could get away with skipping this step. Most likely you will have to do this though. So, find a small motor. I used one from a birthday card my kid got from his aunt lol. The card had a spinning thing-a-ma-jig when you opened the card. I took the card apart and there was a nice motor in it. For my IJ prop mod, I used a motor from a Zipzap car.
ebay.com link: NEW Zip Zaps Micro RC Performance Booster Upgrade Kit ORANGE MOTOR IS 28 000 RPM
Start grinding with whatever tool you have to do this. You can see in the pictures what I used. Grind and test fit until the helicopter halves seat back together with the motor in it. This is an annoying step because the motor will keep falling out of place when you’re doing the test fits. Find a way to hold the shaft through the top hole as you test fit.
11GrindForMotor.JPG12BestTool.JPG13FinishedGrind.JPG14TestFitMotor.JPG
Clean the area for JB Weld with alcohol. Jb Weld the motor in place and let dry overnight. Do not touch it until the next day.
15ApplyJB.JPG16JBMotor.JPG
Run 3’ of 24 gauge (or close) wires from motor and out of opening in helicopter.
JB Weld the 2 wires exiting the helicopter (ghetto strain relief lol). Let dry overnight.
17JBStrainRelief.JPG18JBStrainRelief2.JPG
Look closely at the windows in the pictures below. You’ll have to grind them down to fit back into the helicopter. JbWeld the windows into place strategically placing the JB Weld so it doesn’t show from the outside looking into the helicopter. Let dry overnight.
19GrindWindow.JPG20JBWindows.JPG
Grind the seat down to fit. No need to JB Weld the seat. Test fit both helicopter halves. If all is good, apply JB Weld to the motor where the other half of the helicopter is going to make contact. Put the halves together and fill the rivet holes with JB Weld. I used a toothpick. The JB Weld slowly falls into place leaving a smooth finish. Let dry overnight.
21GrindSeat.JPG
22JBRivets.JPG