Are you talking about MPU connectors, the rectifier board, or the solenoid driver board? Ed at Great Plains should have everything you need; if not try Big Daddy I'd advise dealing with the rectifier board first (replace all three rectifiers, the 4 diodes for the displays, and BOTH the male and female pins/connectors as well. Remove the transformer/rectifier board assembly with the board they are mounted on from the cabinet-makes this work MUCH easier; *oops* almost forgot-mount the new rectifiers on the top side of the board (reverse from the factory mounting) and slightly elevated to allow for airflow-as an option install heatsinks on the solenoid and lamp rectifiers to maximize cooling. Now on the Solenoid driver board replace the C23 cap (controls the +5 volts to the MPU) and the .100 pins/connector on the J3 connector (one on the upper right hand corner of the board-it tends to be a problem child). After you do the work on these boards you should be ready to go with a fully booting MPU (all 7 flashes with a pinging sound for each flash-gotta love those Stern MPUS; your Altek board is a clone of the Stern MPU-200 board). Good luck and have fun!!!
P.S. watch out for the sound board-make sure you have the ribbon cables hooked to the MPU correctly otherwise no sounds! They mount straight on the sound board itself but you must cross the connectors on the MPU side.

the small ones are molex .100" or 2.54mm the bigger ones are molex .156" or 3.96mm

great plains electronics