very nice. And get the video amplifier as well - makes a big difference to the graphics.

As for the power supply fan, you are probably better off getting a modern ATX power supply for $40. Here's how to make it work: http://antelopearcade.com/forum/yaf_postst4_Pinball-2000-AT-to-ATX-Power-Supply-Replacement.aspx

As for the CPU fan, it is an Evercool 50X10mm Fan (3pin, EC5010M12CA) which is still available (Amazon, Ebay, or Newegg) although any 50x10mm fan will work. It's best to stick with a ball bearing fan for reliability, which the Evercool is.

Is Nucore still being made?

Nice thread - I'm a new RFM owner too. Someone told me that there is a sort of knockoff Nucore called Pinbox. It seems it can be found if one looks under the right rock for it.

1/4 inch plate steel stops most infantry rounds. Might have to reinforce the legs with the added weight. I'm glad you got your RFM coming buddy!

Replace all of the Cherry DA3 microswitches with new ones. They are pretty much always bad if they have never been replaced.
Micro switch body
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860
or you can buy the whole switch with the wire on it which I recommend.
Check your manual for the correct part number.

Don't have a manual? That would be the first part I would purchase to keep you in business.

I also picked up a RFM recently. The CPU fan was already noisy. After cleaning out the CPU box (the fan was rubbing the power cable insulation) I replaced the CPU fan and converted an ATX power supply I had. Had to get a new switch for the front of the CPU box, but the whole operation was pretty easy and will last for years.

I've identified 7 cherry switches that need replacing. i just ordered the full assembly (A-17813) and new diode. In the meantime it makes the game more challenging to play with 7 switches dead or intermittent.

Aside from a couple missing/broken plastics, one problem I keep having is the bulb above the left outlane breaking - even with a new tight rubber. It looks like with the outlane full open there isn't enough room for the rubber to stop the ball from striking the bulb.

Where did you get the cherry DA3 switches that are complete?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-19

You don't need to get a new switch, you can use the original one. Follow the instructions on the site nosro linked.

I'm not sure if I'm thinking of the same bulb, but shouldn't this spot have double rubber?

I have this problem with the single bulb that sits just to the left of the center target bank, under a plastic. After I broke the second bulb (with new rubber), I bent the bulb bracket so that the entire bulb sits under the playfield and shines through the hole.

The original in mine was soldered and was more trouble than worth to clean up (the switch in the instructions don't look like they were soldered). I could likely have even done without one, but I had a switch laying around and the machine had to go thru other troubleshooting where the switch came in handy.

You are correct sir...ty.

interestingly the one plastic I'm missing is the one over that bulb next to the center targets. Despite the number of times the ball flies into, over and even onto it, that bulb hasn't broken on mine yet. But the bracket idea sounds like a good solution, especially of it has a brighter LED.

Are you talking about this bulb? I find it hard to believe that the ball is able to push through both sides of both rubbers. Maybe one of the posts is loose?

u.png

Oh OK. I just didn't want people to think you had to. The original switch will work. You just have to cut the green wire from the ATX PSU, solder it to one tab of the switch, then solder another wire to the other tab and ground that to the case.

I took a look at my machine and I have the outlane fully closed! That probably explains why I have had no bulb breakage. Seems like smaller rubber would be a good idea if you plan to use fully-open outlane.

I've placed the second bands on it and replaced the bulb (left lane fully open). Haven't played it much since, but so far no broken bulb.

Whereabouts in Michigan? There seem to be a few RFM's in circulation here.

shhh... the whereabouts of our RFMs are supposed to be a classified secret. much like area 51

Well, we just lost one to Ohio

FYI that I measured my fan and it is 50x10mm (screw holes at 40mm). Jamicon 12v Model JF0510B1M

_{Post edited by wongojack: posted wrong info!}