(Topic ID: 66027)

Late Gottlieb EM Flipper Rebuild

By Pafasa

10 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Pafasa
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 years ago

Rebuilding late Gottlieb EM flippers. The plunger and link (which is a big block of plastic with a guide "pin" sticking out of the back) is not the same as the rebuild parts I got from PBR. has the guide pin been removed for a reason, or do I have the wrong part?

Also, what method is best to remove the roll pin and also replace it. Don't want to pinch the metal tabs of the clamp together and create a bind on the plunger link. Is the orientation of the roll pin important? The slot in the pin should be forward, back, sideways? What do you think is best here?

IMG_2847.JPGIMG_2847.JPG

#2 10 years ago

Read Steve's explanation here:
http://pbresource.com/KT-GFLIP03AM.html

which states:
"If your current plunger has a Tail, this was the original Gottlieb® design. This design was supposed to avoid plunger hangups. It turned out that the tail caused more hangups than it cured. Gottlieb® later removed the tail to correct the problems it was causing. Thus the above plunger is the correct replacement part for your tailed plunger. "

Here's the 'tailed' version:
http://pbresource.com/rebuildk/gtb-a16360org.jpg

Personally, I'd still use the tailed version correct to the game, but I'm OCD that way.

From your picture though, your original one just looks like it could use a good cleaning and keep going. If the plunger bottom is worn, it can be filed flat again, to meet up with new coil stops (or filed coil stops).

#3 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

Rebuilding late Gottlieb EM flippers. The plunger and link (which is a big block of plastic with a guide "pin" sticking out of the back) is not the same as the rebuild parts I got from PBR. has the guide pin been removed for a reason, or do I have the wrong part?
Also, what method is best to remove the roll pin and also replace it. Don't want to pinch the metal tabs of the clamp together and create a bind on the plunger link. Is the orientation of the roll pin important? The slot in the pin should be forward, back, sideways? What do you think is best here?

You'll need to get a set of pin-punches to get the roll pin out. Drill a hole in a block of wood, then orient the linkage over the hole so as you drive the pin out, it's going into the hole. Do not completely remove the pin as they are difficult to start again. Just drive it through enough such that you can remove the old link and slip the new one in. Then you can just flip it over so the pin is facing you and use a hammer to re-seat the roll pin. The orientation of the pin is not important.

IMG_2847.JPG 2 MB

#4 10 years ago

Thanks! got it!

#5 10 years ago

Hey Pafasa, whats up? I also recently ordered kits for both my Joker Poker and Solar City. They are two different kits with what looks like everything is the same except the coil stops. I asked Steve and he explained about AC vs DC flippers, but why the different coil stop? They look to be interchangeable. Anyone?

#6 10 years ago

Been good o-din! Tried to delete anything lately???

I'd be curious to know the difference too.

#7 10 years ago

The newer style coil stops have a brass ring/washer between the stop and the plate. Based on other uses of brass washers in EMs, I'd guess this is to break up the magnetism.

http://pbresource.com/rebuildk/gtb-a17908.jpg

From an old, old tip of Tim Arnold's"

"25 - A.C. PARTS - D.C. PARTS

Magnet coils on EM games contain a brass or copper cladding that retains the magnetic field thru the "0 cycle" of the A.C. wave! If it comes loose or wears out, relays will start to hum! Replace Coil! A phone call to Steve Young or myself can cross reference 95% of all coils! D.C. coils contain no such copper slug, but do have a diode across the winding! As the magnetic field collapses, a "spike" of reverse voltage comes out of the coil! The diode suppresses this! Don't ignore this! On most relays there is a brass or copper washer between the coil and the relay frame! This, along with the brass screw keep the frame isolated magnetically! IMPORTANT! As relays on Gottlieb games need ONLY to have coil removed, cleaned, de-magnetized, and strike plate wear spot covered with mylar. DO NOT attempt to take stepping part of relay apart!"

The older style of coil stop and plate don't have this brass washer wedged in.

#8 10 years ago

Thanks. Can the newer coil stop be used in the older flippers?

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Thanks. Can the newer coil stop be used in the older flippers?

I would think so, but I've never tried. I notice that the surface of the stop itself is smaller.

#10 10 years ago

I'll just use what's called for. Now the upper flippers have special links. I'm sure Steve can help me out with that.

#11 10 years ago

Thanks guys for all the great info!! I am going to
Out a link to this thread in vids flipper rebuild tutorial thread.

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