(Topic ID: 7897)

Late 70's Star Explorer Machine - solenoids and flippers not firing

By Weeverman

12 years ago


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  • 52 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by jdunn9
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 12 years ago

Hey guys I need your help. I picked up an older Star Explorer machine last night and got everything working except several of the solenoids. I'm a beginner so I'm trying to track down the problem. I've seen a lot of posts on here saying that you need to change the fuse, however I don't think this machine has a fuse. The weird thing is that there is a switch on the back that will fire the solenoid side bumpers and sometimes the ball launchers. It used to fire the solenoid for the hole in the middle where the ball gets stuck (whatever that is called). But that has stopped working. Also, every time a light flashes or something electronic happens I can hear static in the speaker. The flipper buttons and the start button work fine but they don't activate anything. I did notice that every thing runs to a connection with a 20ohms transistor. Any help would be greatly appreciated -- I'm trying to get it up and going for Christmas.

#2 12 years ago

Is this a home use game? I'm guessing there are fuses somewhere, as if not locked on coils can start fires. I have never seen the inside of this machines, so above that, can't help you - but I'm guessing it's a fuse.

#3 12 years ago

not familiar with those model photos will defiantly help

#4 12 years ago

I've isolated the issue - or at least part of the issue. There is a 2.1A Hold push button that is getting too hot causing it to loose connection. Perhaps this is acting as the fuse?? I've included a few pictures. (The button is 120V 60Hz made by Littlefuse Inc.) Every time I turn on the machine the metal on this hold button heats up causing it to pop straight up breaking the connection. I can hold it down but it gets very hot and sparks. One connection comes straight from the power supply the other goes to the board. What could cause this to overheat? I've replaced the button with another one and it does the same thing.

When I hold it down all of the solenoids work fine except for the bumpers which stay engaged the entire time -- so something is not right. I'm bringing a multimeter home this evening to help troubleshoot this issue.

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#5 12 years ago

Pictures of the boards. Very simple -- yet still has me for a loop.

smaller_1.jpgsmaller_1.jpg smaller_2.jpgsmaller_2.jpg smaller_3.jpgsmaller_3.jpg smaller_4.jpgsmaller_4.jpg

3 weeks later
#6 12 years ago

Hi i saw your post and thought i mite be able to help. I was working on my star explorer earlier today. sounds like 1 or more output transistors may have failed. try removing the output board with the 5 large transistors on it ,then power up to see if circuit breaker holds. if it does ,check those 5 transistors with a digital volt meter for continuity between b-e , b-c like checking 2 diodes in series. these can be replaced with a common TIP102 transistor. also reseat all 3 boards and the edge connector that wires to the playfield. good luck

1 month later
#7 12 years ago

Mike, I have the same game, and I've gotten most of it working (aside from needing to re-sauter the ground terminal on the volume pot). The one problem I have is the Score display. It doesn't work correctly and the score jumps all over the place. Any ideas?

1 month later
#8 12 years ago
Quoted from mikemett53:

Hi i saw your post and thought i mite be able to help. I was working on my star explorer earlier today. sounds like 1 or more output transistors may have failed. try removing the output board with the 5 large transistors on it ,then power up to see if circuit breaker holds. if it does ,check those 5 transistors with a digital volt meter for continuity between b-e , b-c like checking 2 diodes in series. these can be replaced with a common TIP102 transistor. also reseat all 3 boards and the edge connector that wires to the playfield. good luck

Thank you so much Mike for informing us that this machine has a TIP102 transistor! I also have this machine and am having a very similar issue as stated in this thread. After recoiling a bad solenoid and adding a new diode I found that the power to the solenoid would not shut off (Same issue as Weeverman). After locating the circuit board that controls the solenoid and testing all the transistors I found one to be bad. I have not been able to find out what kind of transistor I need as the number no longer correspond to anything myself or my trusted local electronics supplier could find. Again, thank you Mike for enlightening me! I have ordered the TIP102 transistor, once it’s installed and hopefully working properly I will let you guys know. Star explorer is a fun classic looking machine with a cool theme, even if its steels some if its ideas from Star Trek (Starship Enterprise).

#9 12 years ago

Jonnyfri:

You will want to check out this thread also as it pertains to the transistor.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/power-issue-need-help-troubleshooting

#10 12 years ago

Good tie to the other thread KenLayton

#11 12 years ago

I agree HELLODEADCITY, thanks KenLayton! Its nice to have some conformation on this issue. Cant wait to try beating my old score with a fully functioning machine. My old score being 156,500 points in case you were wondering

#12 12 years ago

Wonder Wizard/Sentinel "CB Charlie" videos of a solenoid problem:

Views under the playfield of that machine:

Should be the same boards and solenoids as in the Star Explorer, Flying Aces, and Demolition Derby.

#13 12 years ago

Well I installed my TIP102 transistor and still nothing. Same problem as before as in the upper 2 bumpers (working off of on solenoid) are not plunging. Any other thoughts on this one. Should I check the other smaller transistors as well. If I need to replace those any idea what kind I should use?

#14 12 years ago

In general, if the main solenoid driver transistor is bad, then the smaller "pre-driver" transistor next to it is likely bad. I always replace the solenoid driver and pre-driver transistors at the same time.

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from Jonnyfri:

Well I installed my TIP102 transistor and still nothing. Same problem as before as in the upper 2 bumpers (working off of on solenoid) are not plunging. Any other thoughts on this one. Should I check the other smaller transistors as well. If I need to replace those any idea what kind I should use?

Solved the problem! Totally my mistake, I forgot to reconnect one of the wires coming from the circuit board (left if disconnected so I could still play the game). After reconnecting the wire everything works fine! First time since I got this machine 5 years ago!

Shout out to KenLayton!!!! This guy knows his electronics and was super helpful throughout the whole process.

So to recap. The problem all along was the transistor on the driver board. Replacing it with a TIP102 transistor solved the problem.

#16 11 years ago

For other people's benefit, which transistor Q number on the driver board was the bad one?

Q301, Q303, Q305, Q307, or Q309?

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

For other people's benefit, which transistor Q number on the driver board was the bad one?
Q301, Q303, Q305, Q307, or Q309?

Mine was Q301

#18 11 years ago

Nice to see you have it fixed Jonnyfri
Although most ppl stay away from home models or any game without a coin slot these machines do come up for sale more often then not.
Good info for future owners guys

6 months later
#19 11 years ago

I have now uploaded a much improved scan of the Sentinel/Wonder Wizard owner's manual over at pinwiki.

2 months later
#20 11 years ago

I am hoping someone here can help me. I am restoring a Star Explorer game for my children. I was having similar issues with the solenoid locking up for the ejector hole. After rebuilding the driver board I keep blowing the pre driver at Q304. I have confirmed that there is no short leading to the coil and have even replaced the coil for the ejector hole. Nothing seemed to correct the problem, the coil still locks on and trips the breaker. When I disconnect the coil, the breaker holds and everything except the ejector hole works. With that being said, I was also have problems with the counter and the sound not working. So I decided to reconnect the coil and remove the sound board and the counter board, leaving the driver board installed. Once again the breaker held everything worked except for the ejector hole. When I installed the counter board much to my surprise the counter worked. But when I installed the sound board the breaker or the coils tripped and the counter board no longer works.

On further examination of the sound board I noticed the IC chip at position IC202 is blown apart. I would like to replace this chip but I cannot identify it. All I can make out is 612. I am hoping that someone with an old Sentex pinball will take a look at their sound board and help me to identify this chip. In the mean time I will check the rest of the board for further problems.

#21 11 years ago

I don't have any schematics of the boards or the machine. I understand that at one time Sentinel/Phillips did issue an actual service manual that had board schematics in it, but i've never been able to locate a copy.

I think your best bet is for someone to look at their board and see what the chip numbers are.

#22 11 years ago

Thanks for the responce Ken, I have checked over the audio board and found several of the transistors on the board have shorted. I would like to replace these before I remove the IC chip but can't seem to locate any information on them. Has any one encountered transistors with 2321 F727 EBC.

#23 11 years ago

The 2321 F727 markings on the transistor would likely be a transistor that was "house marked" by Fairchild Semiconductor. I could not find any information on this number. However, I strongly suspect that it is in reality a type 2N4401 or 2N3904.

#24 11 years ago

Thanks Ken I will give those a try.

1 month later
#25 11 years ago

also having trouble with my wonder wizard demolition derby machine. circuit breaker trips right after starting. I think the the problem is the top centre round bumpers are stuck on. If I cut the wire to the them the circuit breaker holds. Also if the driver board is pulled with the wire hooked up it holds. Have checked all the transistors on the board and I think they are ok. Just for curiosity I removed the top right 2 transistors (large ones) from the board (which I think are the ones that energize the coil) and it still stays on and trips the circuit breaker. This leads me to believe that the coil is shorted? How do I test. Please Help. I do have the original owners manual with the wiring diagram but I don't know how to read it and even if I did it is almost too small to be legible. Attached is a scanned image. Please help..

#26 11 years ago

a better scan

pinballwiring2.JPGpinballwiring2.JPG

#27 11 years ago

a better scan

pinballwiring2.JPGpinballwiring2.JPG

#28 11 years ago

You have a holy grail: a circuit board schematic! Is there any way you can scan it at higher resolution (preferably 600 dpi)? The jpgs just don't work for me. I can't blow them up enough to read anything. The pdf was a lot better and that's what I used. Your manual seems more like a service manual. Any possibility of scanning the whole manual?

Anyway, from what I can see, you removed the wrong transistors. According to the schematic diagram, transistor Q309 is the driver for the vertical set of thumper (pop) bumpers. The associated "pre-driver" of Q309 is Q310.

Q307 and Q308 are for the horizontal set of pop bumpers.

#29 11 years ago

Meeker:

IC 202 is an LM380 amplifier chip (2 watts). It crosses to NTE 740A.

#30 11 years ago

Solenoid driver assignments:

Q309 and Q310 are for the vertical set of pop bumpers.

Q307 and Q308 are for the horizontal set of pop bumpers.

Q305 and Q306 are for the eject hole.

Q303 and Q304 are for the outhole ball return.

Q301 and Q302 are for the slingshot kickers.

#31 11 years ago

i need clarification. The ones that are staying stuck on are the 2 round bumper,poper things in the top centre-they have a 100 symbol on them. So that would be q309 and q310?would you recommend just replacing those or is there a better way to determine whether the coil is shorted or the driver transistors are bad. I am a little lost about how to properly diagnose. I do have an ohm meter. please help guide me how to properly test. The whole manual is coming. I will see what I can do about the dpi. Thanks

#32 11 years ago

i guess I could take the q301 or q303 which I have already removed and install it in the q309 position? Thoughts?

#33 11 years ago

ok I have scanned the complete manual but it is too large to post here. I could email it to you if I had your address. In the mean time here is a rescan of the wiring diagram 600x600 dpi in pdf

#34 11 years ago
Quoted from jdunn9:

i need clarification. The ones that are staying stuck on are the 2 round bumper,popper things in the top centre - they have a 100 symbol on them. So that would be q309 and q310?would you recommend just replacing those or is there a better way to determine whether the coil is shorted or the driver transistors are bad. I am a little lost about how to properly diagnose. I do have an ohm meter. Thanks

With the machine power off, you could unsolder and remove transistor Q309. Now power up the machine with Q309 removed. The pop bumper that had been staying on should now be off. That will prove that Q309 was bad.

I have a strong feeling that Q309 is shorted and should be replaced with a new one. If there's no burning/browning of the coil wrapper and the coil linkages move smoothly by hand, the coil is probably ok.

That last pdf of the schematic is much better! I can read more things in it.

Email the manual to me at [email protected]

#35 11 years ago

ok, reinstalled the other transistors, removed q109-problem solved-coil doesn't stay locked in, circuit breaker stays on. So i guess i will replace q109-now my problem is to find i believe is a tip102?we don't have radio shack in Canada so I will try ebay...thanks again for all your help-will update when i get some parts. Also any tips on how to glue metal rings back onto board?Also sound doesn't work right but some of the bumpers do make a beeping noise so I think the potentiometers on the back of the sound board need adjustments. Tips?

#36 11 years ago

sorry q309

#37 11 years ago

John Robertson at www.flippers.com will have the transistors you need. His company is in Vancouver, BC.

If you have a local electronics parts supplier, you can use an NTE 331 transistor. If you have a Cineplex/Starburst/Playdium amusement game distributor near you, they would likely have it at their parts counter.

#38 11 years ago

ordered some from china from ebay--I'll just have to wait a few weeks

#39 11 years ago

Beware! Ordering semiconductors from China on ebay often gets you counterfeits!

#40 11 years ago

Hey guys, don't just want to jump in this conversation but I couldn't resist!
I also have a Star Explorer machine and love it! Having similar problems KenLayton helped me out greatly. TIP102 is a very common transistor and can be found is most electronic shops. And by electronic shops I mean the ones that are usually in the industrial areas of town the service local industry. With a little searching around you will find what you are looking for for cheep!
Thats my two bits. Good luck.
Also I am currently modifying my machine so the flippers will be independent. Left will do left right will do right and not both all the time.
I will post progress.

#41 11 years ago
Quoted from HELLODEADCITY:

Nice to see you have it fixed Jonnyfri
Although most ppl stay away from home models or any game without a coin slot these machines do come up for sale more often then not.
Good info for future owners guys

It was a Christmas gift from my friend. How cool is that!

#42 11 years ago
Quoted from Jonnyfri:

Also I am currently modifying my machine so the flippers will be independent. Left will do left right will do right and not both all the time.
I will post progress.

If you add another flipper assembly that will be additional current draw. You should upgrade the BR401 bridge rectifier to an 8 amp bridge rectifier.

#43 11 years ago

ok, replaced q309 with darlington tip102--still same problem-how do I test these transistors?do you suspect q310 is bad?if so what transistor replaces this--marking on transistor is m731 148-2

#44 11 years ago

did some more reading on another thread, will 2n4401 work?

#45 11 years ago
Quoted from jdunn9:

Did some more reading on another thread. Will a 2N4401 transistor work for Q310?

Yes, that is correct. Q310 is a 2N4401 transistor. Radio Shack stocks them:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062615

If you got your TIP 102 transistors from China, you may have received counterfeits.

#46 11 years ago

Thanks Ken for the info, I replaced that chip and now the sound board is working perfectly. Thank you to jdunn9 for the schematics and manual. However still can't solve the ejector hole problem, it still locks on. So far I have completely rebuilt the driver board several times, I have checked and replaced the coil in question three times to no avail. Coils all reading 4ohms and diodes replaced so they are good. I have upgraded the bridge rectifiers. When I remove Q305/306 the breaker holds and all other coils function properly. I have run out of ideas. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

#47 11 years ago

Meeker:

If you by chance have mis-wired the eject hole coil (wires connected to the wrong sides of the coil diode), you will immediately damage the driver transistor(s) for that coil. The anode (non-banded) side of the coil diode goes up to the motherboard connector P4, pin 12. The cathode (banded) side of all the coils goes to the +24 volts from the bridge rectifier.

Transistors Q305 and Q306 are turned on by integrated circuit IC201 (a type LM324) on the audio board. Have you verified your existing Q305 and Q306 to be good still?

3 weeks later
#48 10 years ago

Thanks Ken for all your help, I now have a fully operational machine. Many of the chips on the sound and display board had to be replaced. The problem with the ejector hole was solved by replacing IC 201 with a LM324n chip.

#49 10 years ago

Excellent, that's great news!

#50 10 years ago

ok, still having problems.have replaced q309 q310 q303 q304. Circuit breaker holds when sound board is removed. Everthing works with the sound board removed with the exception of the ejector hole. Please help. What next?I'm wondering now if my problem lies in the sound board.

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