Yes. Having no balls locked, the jackpot is 15 million, one ball locked is 20 million, and both locked is 25 million.
Later,
EV
Yes. Having no balls locked, the jackpot is 15 million, one ball locked is 20 million, and both locked is 25 million.
Later,
EV
Hi all - quick question, do your drop targets drop all the way to flush with the playfield? Or do they stick up an 8th of an inch or so above the playfield when dropped?
It seemed weird that they would stay slightly above, but couldn't see an easy way to adjust them when I had the bank out of the game.
Thanks!
Quoted from Pinballrus:Hi all - quick question, do your drop targets drop all the way to flush with the playfield? Or do they stick up an 8th of an inch or so above the playfield when dropped?
It seemed weird that they would stay slightly above, but couldn't see an easy way to adjust them when I had the bank out of the game.
Thanks!
Mine drop down about 1/4in below the pf with a nice click.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Mine drop down about 1/4in below the pf with a nice click.
That makes more sense, something must be installed incorrectly on my bank - I'll pull it and have another look. They function well, but shouldn't be sitting above the playfield when down!
Quoted from Pinballrus:That makes more sense, something must be installed incorrectly on my bank - I'll pull it and have another look. They function well, but shouldn't be sitting above the playfield when down!
Are they original?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Are they original?
Hmmm, as far as I know they are. They have the Crane stickers on them and look original. I just got the pin, so I'm not exactly sure of this.
Quoted from Pinballrus:Hi all - quick question, do your drop targets drop all the way to flush with the playfield? Or do they stick up an 8th of an inch or so above the playfield when dropped?
It seemed weird that they would stay slightly above, but couldn't see an easy way to adjust them when I had the bank out of the game.
Thanks!
You want them as flush as possible with the PF. I had to adjust mine as well. There is a bolt on the mech that adjusts the stop that they hit when they drop. If they are too low a ball will sometimes get stuck there. Too high may keep a ball from hitting the bar/switch behind the drops. Adjust it. It makes a difference.
Mike
Quoted from papazit1963:You want them as flush as possible with the PF. I had to adjust mine as well. There is a bolt on the mech that adjusts the stop that they hit when they drop. If they are too low a ball will sometimes get stuck there. Too high may keep a ball from hitting the bar/switch behind the drops. Adjust it. It makes a difference.
Mike
Awesome - I knew there was something fishy. I'll take a look soon
im finding the ball is flying around pretty quick, and as a result quite a few airballs. targets are all ok, foam etc.
would it be possibly be the pitch? maybe too much power on the flippers, they do seem pretty strong...
New owner here and appreciate the posts on this thread. The crane is a PITA. I had pulled it so I could resolder one of the flashers and add LED to the pop bumper underneath the one plastic ramp. So with moving things around I had inadvertently pulled a wire off the switch that make for when crane is at rest to lock a ball. I couldn't figure out why it kept wandering. Duh! Fixed it and not bad. Posts here really helped. I have to say after playing last night I'm digging it more. At first I wasn't sure if I like it.
New alternate translite coming along with Cliffy's, LED's are being added (Some were there already), will be adding some Cliffy post covers and cleaning/painting legs/lockbar.
Quoted from dmacy:New owner here and appreciate the posts on this thread. The crane is a PITA. I had pulled it so I could resolder one of the flashers and add LED to the pop bumper underneath the one plastic ramp. So with moving things around I had inadvertently pulled a wire off the switch that make for when crane is at rest to lock a ball. I couldn't figure out why it kept wandering. Duh! Fixed it and not bad. Posts here really helped. I have to say after playing last night I'm digging it more. At first I wasn't sure if I like it.
New alternate translite coming along with Cliffy's, LED's are being added (Some were there already), will be adding some Cliffy post covers and cleaning/painting legs/lockbar.
Welcome to the club, the game has a lot going for it. I have the alt tl on mine and it looks so much better the the stock one.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Welcome to the club, the game has a lot going for it. I have the alt tl on mine and it looks so much better the the stock one.
yeah definately. the alt translite is way better.
Quoted from dmacy:New alternate translite coming along with Cliffy's, LED's are being added (Some were there already), will be adding some Cliffy post covers and cleaning/painting legs/lockbar.
yeah i put the cliffys yellow sleeves on. as well as the 3 protectors. must have.
Quoted from ledge:yeah i put the cliffys yellow sleeves on. as well as the 3 protectors. must have.
I put on the protectors and put on some red sleeves on. May try some yellow or orange. Good idea; thanks!
Had my alt. tl on for a few months and it's WAY better then the original. But the game is down because the fork switch in the back right pop up broke. The original is a wire loop that's welded to the switch lever, pt. # 180-5116-00, the replacement is a fork switch pt. # 180-5116-01 at Pinballlife and only $4, Marco wants $11.50. Gonna be a PAIN to get to it for soldering.
Quoted from dmacy:I put on the protectors and put on some red sleeves on. May try some yellow or orange. Good idea; thanks!
i just thought the yellow blended in nicely with its surrounding, but of course it all comes down to personal taste.
thats a nice games room btw.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Had my alt. tl on for a few months and it's WAY better then the original. But the game is down because the fork switch in the back right pop up broke. The original is a wire loop that's welded to the switch lever, pt. # 180-5116-00, the replacement is a fork switch pt. # 180-5116-01 at Pinballlife and only $4, Marco wants $11.50. Gonna be a PAIN to get to it for soldering.
Funny you say that. I had a pin party Saturday night and this died. I swapped the wire loop level assembly onto the new one. It's a bit of a PITA but you take out the three screws for the coil bracket that also holds the switch, unscrew the switch, and swap out. It's not as bad as it looks. Working great now.
Quoted from ledge:i just thought the yellow blended in nicely with its surrounding, but of course it all comes down to personal taste.
thats a nice games room btw.
Yes, and not dismissing the idea. I had some red ones left over so that's why I used them. Anything was better than the black. I'd like to try yellow and orange because I agree. Thanks; it's not a large space but thankful I have the room and an easy going non-pinhead wife.
Quoted from dmacy:Funny you say that. I had a pin party Saturday night and this died. I swapped the wire loop level assembly onto the new one. It's a bit of a PITA but you take out the three screws for the coil bracket that also holds the switch, unscrew the switch, and swap out. It's not as bad as it looks. Working great now.
I've got it disassembled , that's no problem but soldering those 4 wires onto the 2 tiny leads on the new switch assembly has to be really hard. Or can you combine 4 wires into 2 of 2 then just solder the 2 wires onto the new switch assembly?
It's really strange we both had a pin party on the same night and the same part broke on the same game. WEIRD!
Quoted from MustangPaul:I've got it disassembled , that's no problem but soldering those 4 wires onto the 2 tiny leads on the new switch assembly has to be really hard. Or can you combine 4 wires into 2 of 2 then just solder the 2 wires onto the new switch assembly?
It's really strange we both had a pin party on the same night and the same part broke on the same game. WEIRD!
That is scary!
I combine two wires and wrap around the lug and do the same to the other. So yes, combine as you said. It's not too bad.
I'll be a member of this club within a week, sort of excited to play. I always hear this is a sleeper that deserves more credit.
Proud to be an owner of this awesome game. I desperately wanted a modern game with deeper software but everything is so damn expensive!
This was the most expensive Pin I have bought so far, which was still cheap in comparison to other games with similar features.
This game scratches my modern game itch with a vengeance. Way beyond my expectations and is one of the most fun pins Ive ever played. Its turned me into a major DE fan. It has a fun factor that is clearly different from other manufactures but it works for me.
Quoted from DragonPin:Proud to be an owner of this awesome game. I desperately wanted a modern game with deeper software but everything is so damn expensive!
This was the most expensive Pin I have bought so far, which was still cheap in comparison to other games with similar features.
This game scratches my modern game itch with a vengeance. Way beyond my expectations and is one of the most fun pins Ive ever played. Its turned me into a major DE fan. It has a fun factor that is clearly different from other manufactures but it works for me.
Nothing wrong with DE games but man is the pf on LAH HEAVY. I think it was a LE model of it's day. Great bang for the buck.
Quoted from toyotaboy:I'll be a member of this club within a week, sort of excited to play. I always hear this is a sleeper that deserves more credit.
Makes a great addition to any line-up so much to shoot for. Have fun.
Just joined the club thanks to Scott. I going to tear into this soon I hope. First mod I will create of course is some interactive under-cab lighting, then I will take a look at the crane and see what can be done.
So I picked mine up last sunday, looks to be HUO. Definitely getting the alternate translite, everyone I show hates the big arnold head. For LED's I think I'm going to mirror the alternate translite and go from oranges and yellows in the crane area, and fade to blue towards the slings.
I wanna buy some of the action figures to place on the playfield for extra toys but I don't know if that'll cheese it up?
LastActionHero1[1].jpg
I think the toy car could fit in the upper right corner
CIMG3713[1].jpg
Does anyone have a good condition original translite they'd like to part with? I like the original and mine has some fading.
Quoted from toyotaboy:I think the toy car could fit in the upper right corner
How big is that car? I've been looking for one small enough to fit on the playfield. I'd like to mod it with some LEDs in the headlights.
I just bought 2 lah's
One is kinda beat up and the other is nice
Both boot up but have been stored for 8 years.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hey Rock, I kind of figured that would be your first mod.
You know me I have something for your Mustang when you are ready!
My new LAH is still wrapped up and it looks like I will be too busy to play with it this weekend
Quoted from Rock914:I have something for your Mustang when you are ready!
Sorry CT kit came with the deal.
Hi, guys. New site member here and owner of LAH for a couple of years. I had a drop target break on me recently and am looking to perform my first repair. My only problems are:
1) I have no idea which parts websites are good
2) I'm not 100% sure which DE target is the right one to buy
3) I don't know how to actually put the target in
I've seen a few folks around here mention pinballlife.com. Is that the site I should use?
Is this the right target to buy?:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=572
...or is *this* the right target?:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=314
Sorry for the wall of questions on my very first post. Hopefully, I'll be able to return any help a few times over.
Welcome to Pinside, I have the game also but have never done what you have to do, sorry. Do you have an owners manual? You can usually find the part number in there. Can you post a picture of the part?
I am also curious about how to work on drops as well. I had the top target (the "E") stop functioning. It goes down and pops back up, but doesn't register a switch hit. It becomes problematic when you plunge the ball, it hits the target (not registering a real hit), and going SDTM. The game then doesn't know to kick a ball out and I either have to tilt or reset the game.
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:How big is that car? I've been looking for one small enough to fit on the playfield. I'd like to mod it with some LEDs in the headlights
Too big (14" long x 5" wide)
ebay.com link: Vintage Mattel Jack Slater Convertible Stunt Car With Box Last Action Hero
This isn't a bad enemy truck:
ebay.com link: 56 FORD F100 TRUCK 1 64 matchbox 1956 PICKUP 35 RED STEPSIDE
Hello Everyone,
Finally got LAH a month ago, it's my first pin and I love it!
Question, in Diagnostics the playfield status shows (besides the obvious Crane Left Limit) Left Ramp and Left Captive Ball Switches as active. Would that typically be solved by just replacing those switches? I pulled the switch off the ramp and when i press it I hear a click but the status doesn't change. I'm a noob so go easy on me!
Thanks.
Quoted from osudrummer:Hello Everyone,
Finally got LAH a month ago, it's my first pin and I love it!
Question, in Diagnostics the playfield status shows (besides the obvious Crane Left Limit) Left Ramp and Left Captive Ball Switches as active. Would that typically be solved by just replacing those switches? I pulled the switch off the ramp and when i press it I hear a click but the status doesn't change. I'm a noob so go easy on me!
Thanks.
May be simple. Take a few good pictures of the switches. I'm wondering if the wires on the ramp switch is touching something they shouldn't. Sometimes the screws that hold switches to brackets are too tight too and cause switches to not function essentially locking up the mechanical plastic in the switch.
Also you can adjust the captive ball switch. I'm guessing the switch may be touching all the time making the closure and needs opened a bit. They make a tool to adjust easier but a small pair of needle nose pliers will work. The target switches are pretty basic. It will take some gentle tweaking to get the gap right. Turn off the game and remove the two screws holding that left captive ball switch in. See if there's any touching. You want the contacts close with what I use is 3-5 business cards thick (have tons from my work and never hand mine out!) for the gap. If you can keep the switch from touching anything you can turn on game and test. It's a bit of trial and error but is good first things to learn and get your game playing nicely. You want the gap open enough to not be closed but close enough that a light hit of the ball will register a hit.
Pics would help people possibly see some issues. Since you're new it may help to look at the easy things first like the diodes on the switches touching something they shouldn't, etc.
Of course both switches could be bad too but mostly I've found that adjustments are needed.
Quoted from dmacy:This is what I used:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=572
Awesome. Thank you very much. I put in an order for the same parts.
The real trick now will be figuring out how to swap in the new targets.
Quoted from dmacy:May be simple. Take a few good pictures of the switches. I'm wondering if the wires on the ramp switch is touching something they shouldn't. Sometimes the screws that hold switches to brackets are too tight too and cause switches to not function essentially locking up the mechanical plastic in the switch.
Also you can adjust the captive ball switch. I'm guessing the switch may be touching all the time making the closure and needs opened a bit. They make a tool to adjust easier but a small pair of needle nose pliers will work. The target switches are pretty basic. It will take some gentle tweaking to get the gap right. Turn off the game and remove the two screws holding that left captive ball switch in. See if there's any touching. You want the contacts close with what I use is 3-5 business cards thick (have tons from my work and never hand mine out!) for the gap. If you can keep the switch from touching anything you can turn on game and test. It's a bit of trial and error but is good first things to learn and get your game playing nicely. You want the gap open enough to not be closed but close enough that a light hit of the ball will register a hit.
Pics would help people possibly see some issues. Since you're new it may help to look at the easy things first like the diodes on the switches touching something they shouldn't, etc.
Of course both switches could be bad too but mostly I've found that adjustments are needed.
Thanks! Here are a few pics. For the captive ball not sure what i need to look at, under the playfield? My wife said "Quit tinkering and just play it!" LOL. Also was wondering if anyone knows how I could obtain a sticker to replace the lettering that has rubbed in front of the scoop here. I have read about people scanning and then printing them. My ticket is great but this area not so much.image-306.jpgimage-357.jpgimage.jpg
image-339.jpgimage.jpgCouple other things, found this spot on my playfield and was just going to put a mylar dot on it. Is that a good idea? Looks like something might have fallen on it in the past and I noticed it when the ball would slightly change direction. Lastly with the sound i always have a loud humming coming out of my speakers and was wondering what i should check for that. About half the time I turn it on Arnold stutters with his "I'll be back" or the sound doesn't work at all unless I restart.
Thanks.
Tried this as a regular post with no responses so I figured I'd try the club.
OK, on my front left leg plate, my LAH has a normal 3 sided leg plate with 3 angles (more like a Williams) that is working fine. Possibly replaced by someone, but not sure???
The other three just have the small flat plate that's maybe an inch wide and 4 inches tall. Those other 3 plate all seem to be stripped out. They will not tighten properly and were held on the inside with a nut. Tried a bolt from another game and it wouldn't thread in properly.
Needless to say I'd like to replace the leg plates and buy new bolts but I don't have the manual handy and I keep running into Williams/bally leg plates online but not the small Data East ones. Can anyone send me a link with the proper leg plate and proper bolts that would fit those plates so I do not end up ordering the wrong kind.
Thanks, Brad
Quoted from Brad76:but I don't have the manual handy
Here's a link to the manual. http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1416/Data_East_1993_Last_Action_Hero_Manual.pdf
Thanks the manual lists the leg bolts as 231-5000-01 but it does not show a leg plate number. One guy from another posting said he thought these would work and that he was going to buy them for a DE star wars? Anyone know if these are the correct ones? They look correct its just a matter of if the bolt holes line up with a data east leg...
DE leg bolts are spaced the same distance as other manufacturers. Bally, Williams legs will fit on DE so the metal braces will work, the bolts are the same also. Do you have other games? Measure hole center to hole center to be sure. If you replace the skimpy ones you really should put these on the other 3. Drill out the 6 skimpy #6 screws on each and put #12's in. I did and it makes a big dif. Leave the #6 hole in the center for the ground strap.
Quoted from osudrummer:Thanks! Here are a few pics. For the captive ball not sure what i need to look at, under the playfield? My wife said "Quit tinkering and just play it!" LOL. Also was wondering if anyone knows how I could obtain a sticker to replace the lettering that has rubbed in front of the scoop here. I have read about people scanning and then printing them. My ticket is great but this area not so much.
image.jpg 175 KB
image-306.jpg 265 KB
image-357.jpg 184 KB
interesting wear spot. usually its right on the ticket.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/last-action-hero-club-come-on-in/page/4 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.