Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993Before I remove anything from the topside, I'm going to flip the playfield over and take pics of all the connections between the parts on the top and the wiring on the bottom. No need to mark them, just make sure your pics are detailed enough to show wire colors.
In this same group of pics, I like to include all the coil wire connections. No need to tag them, no need to mark them, no need to cut the wire leaving a small amount of wire color on the coil. Just take a detailed enough pic to see the wire colors.
I should mention at this point, yes, wire harnesses do have a "memory" and will pretty much fall back in place. BUT, and that's a big BUT, there will be at least 5% of it that you will not be sure of, so just take pics and you won't regret it later.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:if you're making one yourself and can somehow come up with a "finger" style mount, I think it makes things easier.
Ain't that the truth. On newer PF with the sliders ,I came up with this bracket. Life is good. pf_support.JPG
Quoted from McCune:Ain't that the truth. On newer PF with the sliders ,I came up with this bracket. Life is good.
Shit, Jim. Nice idea!!
Quoted from McCune:Ain't that the truth. On newer PF with the sliders ,I came up with this bracket. Life is good.
That's a great idea! It always bugs me having to remove the stuff at the rear edge of the PF just to get it into my rotisserie.
Thanks!
This is the last series of pics I'll take.
At this point, I need to start removing things from the bottom side. Many of the ball guides have threaded studs that extend under the playfield and have nuts on them. All of the sleeve type posts also do. It's lots easier to get at these once things are removed from the bottom.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:WTF!! That ain't right.
It is just a white plastic spacer that you are missing .
bryan
in your first pic with the new stern cabinet protectors, you stripped the decal all the way to the bottom edge of the cabinet, but for the other corners it appears that you just cut the decal specifically under the metal protector.
any rhyme or reason for that?
Quoted from McCune:It is just a white plastic spacer that you are missing .
I know that, Jim. I'm trying to make things appear more dramatic!!
Quoted from j_m_:bryan
in your first pic with the new stern cabinet protectors, you stripped the decal all the way to the bottom edge of the cabinet, but for the other corners it appears that you just cut the decal specifically under the metal protector.
any rhyme or reason for that?
The rear ones are so close to the bottom, I just take it all off. The front ones are mounted higher, so I just cut around the protector. It really wouldn't matter which way you did either of them.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Seeing as I already have all the pics of an IJ I need from past restorations, I could have this playfield stripped in roughly two hours. Needless to say, it takes a smidge longer to put it all back on.
2 and a half hours? 
Thank you for documenting this. There's a ton of great information in here.
Quoted from McCune:Ain't that the truth. On newer PF with the sliders ,I came up with this bracket. Life is good.
Jim, if there's anything you'd like to add to this thread, please, feel free. We all know there's lots of different ways to do this shit and the more options people have, the better.
I was actually hoping McCune would chime in more myself. His work is top notch. Bryan, I remember you telling us that you had shot tons and tons of video footage and its just never been finished and may never be. Have you ever thought about just having it professionally edited and just charge for the videos? I personally could care less if you make a buck from teaching people the ins and outs of this stuff. Also people if you go to you tube there is a great video from Bryan on how to clean and repaint a coin door. Great stuff!
Brian shot that video several years ago. So much has changed since then. Every restoration is a smidge better than the previous one! I'd love to see the videos though!
Quoted from johnwartjr:Brian shot that video several years ago. So much has changed since then. Every restoration is a smidge better than the previous one! I'd love to see the videos though!
Ya know, John, I've given the video footage to three other people who showed an interest in making the videos and nothing has been done. I think people get excited until they see the amount of information and the work involved.
And you are right. I do things differently now and I'm not sure if I'd want some parts shown.
Very cool and super informative thread. I bought decals for my IJ a year ago and never worked up the nerve to try it, so I recently put mine up for sale. I've been inspired and am going to give it a try this winter and see what happens. Thanks for doing this Bryan!
Bryan....Thank you for doing this.
I myself am in the middle of my first pin restoration and it happens to be an IJ. I have just started the process of putting things back together on the playfield and cab is completed. Coils just cleaned and awaiting new wrappers before being mounted back to their brackets.
This is a great thread.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Tool time. Get yourself a set of mini open end wrenches. You will eventually need them.
Those are often called 'ignition wrenches', if you're having trouble finding them, and they are invaluable in so many ways.
That's it for a few days. I'm leaving tomorrow morning on a 5 hour trip to lovely Benton WI, home of Spooky Pinball World Headquarters and Spotted Cow beer. Word on the street is, we might be assembling a pinball machine.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I think the only thing I take notes on is the location and length of any hex spacers used on the topside of the playfield. You can't tell the length when looking at pics. Otherwise, when it comes time to put it all back, I simply look at my pics in reverse order.
At this point I take pic’s of the location of the hex spacers and print them out. I then write the length of the spacers on the pic,s. Works well for me to get the spacers back to the right location.
Quoted from SJJ:At this point I take pic’s of the location of the hex spacers and print them out. I then write the length of the spacers on the pic,s. Works well for me to get the spacers back to the right location.
Yup. Do whatever works for you, just do it. I just finished up a CC and there must have been at least a dozen, with some only 1/16" difference in length. Most times, you won't know they're in the wrong place until it comes time to install ramps and wireforms. By that time, you may have to remove parts to move them to their correct location.
You can clean them better that way, and the factory installed them one at a time, in a layered fashion
Quoted from johnwartjr:You can clean them better that way, and the factory installed them one at a time, in a layered fashion
What John said.
Don't know if this has been asked before.. I swear I looked, but how much would you charge for this exact restoration?
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:Don't know if this has been asked before.. I swear I looked, but how much would you charge for this exact restoration?
I'm guessing it's likely charged out on a case-by-case basis. I don't imagine it's very likely that financial details would be discussed in a public forum, but I could be wrong.
I would just PM him if you are considering having a resto done.
Quoted from Triumvirat73:I'm guessing it's likely charged out on a case-by-case basis. I don't imagine it's very likely that financial details would be discussed in a public forum, but I could be wrong.
I would just PM him if you are considering having a resto done.
I wouldn't mind saying, but the guy I'm doing this for is reading this thread and I'm not sure he'd want me to say.
What I will say is, I charge $3000 for my labor and that's the same no matter what game it is. Some are a tad easier and some are a tad harder but they're all about the same.
What surprises most people is the parts cost. All they think about are the big ticket items like artwork, plastics, ramps, etc. That's only the tip of the iceberg. There are many, many lesser priced things that are included and once all are added up, amounts to quite a bit. Oh, and lets not forget all the chrome, brass and powder stuff that's so popular these days. That all adds to the cost as well.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Personally, I think the metal protectors Stern came out with are one of the most revolutionary "mods" in the last few years. Of course, they had to come up with something once they went to installing decals for their artwork to prevent wrinkling. No other protector makes sense to me when installing artwork and protecting it. It's completely hidden and keeps the leg from coming in contact with the cabinet. I also recommend making sure the leg bolts are good and tight. This prevents the leg from "rocking" and contacting the cabinet if you are one who likes to move your games when playing.
Bryan, Do you know of any way to repair decal wrinkling around the legs?
Quoted from SJJ:Bryan, Do you know of any way to repair decal wrinkling around the legs?
I asked Bryan this question last week since I just got a pin with wrinkling around the legs. Here is what he told me:
"For wrinkles, you really need to remove as much of the decal under the leg as possible. The wrinkle is caused by the whole decal shifting under the leg and the only way to get rid of it is to put the decal back where it was, which is almost impossible. With most of it cut out, you only have a small amount to shift back. You can do that by heating it up and rubbing with a soft cloth."
Time for mylar removal. Here I've got a relatively small piece. I'll start by lifting an edge with a BRAND NEW razor blade. Next, I'll use my compressed air in a can turned upside down. Simply spray while lifting the mylar slightly. I said SLIGHTLY. Let the air do the freezing of the glue and the mylar will simply pop up. Continue this for the full length of the piece. If you don't freeze it enough and you pull too hard on the mylar, you increase the chance of removing artwork, especially on top of inserts. Once the mylar's off, we need to remove the glue.
For removing the glue, I love me some Orange Power. Simply spray on and spread it over the glue with you finger. The second pic was taken 30 seconds after spraying it on the glue. The third pic is after one minute. Once it loosens, I take a plastic blade and scrape most of it off. After that, spray some on a rag and remove the rest.
This piece took me all of about 3 minutes to remove.
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