PM's have been sent to all that expressed interest in this ramp. Already got a few responses back, but Pinside is not allowing me to respond to any more. Evidently due to potential spammers... So if you don't hear back from me today, I will respond if necessary tomorrow...

We know that like machines can play differently. I received the first parts shipped to me yesterday for the ramp assembly and just for fun, compared the wear on the ball guide on the inside of the entrance to the ramp. In the attached photo, are two guides. The top one came out of my game and the lower one came out of mjw's game. You can see distinct difference in the ball travel. Just trivia...

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In case any of you decide to relocate your stop light to the back corner, it was pretty simple. What I did was cut about a 1/4 deep notch...long enough to fit the existing bracket on the stop light, into the side of the playfield back board...right at the top. Then just used one screw to attach it (outside hole in the bracket) The natural bend in the bracket angles the light perfectly. As far as wiring, had to extend the existing wiring about a foot. Wire harness wraps around behind the back board and comes to the stop light where the notch is. I did put one wire holder on the back board near where it comes around to the stop light just to keep it secure.

It would be cool if someone could find a stop light that actually looks like a stop light about the same size..
especially since mine's all melted up..

I'm actually thinking about it, but have my hands full right now...So...what exactly happened to melt your machine?

That's a good question .I don't know I picked it up that way it was described as needing some work.lol
the play field was trashed, all the plastics were melted. and the wiring was a mess . I got it running ,
I was going to restore the play field but someone removed the marlar and I think played on it that way,
the glue left over will not come off using any of the prescribed methods on here believe me I've tried.
but I was lucky enough to get one of the remade play fields . so it looks like a full restore is in order.
It didn't have any water damage so I don’t think it was in a fire or left outside> the only thing I could think of was it was left by a window and the hot sun was allowed to beat down on it.
I already fixes up the cab, now onto the play field swap, no turning back now!

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So, good timing for a new ramp!

There's a real simple upgrade you can do with your playfield torn down... The two upper rollover stars were never lighted. You will see that the GI wiring is right there and handy if you want put lights under them. I did my playfield swap a couple months ago and the only thing I really had trouble with are the roll overs. They say you need to clear out the "vanes" to be sure that the star will move freely...however, I think that the clear coat also put a thick layer down in the roll over plastic which prevents the star from going down far enough (down even with the playfield).. If this is not addressed, the high speed shots around the freeway will be spoiled by the star sticking up. I need to take mine back out and redo them.

truth be told I already bought a new black one . but I think the clear one looks so much better. I sent my parts you should be getting them soon.

let me know if you come up with any kind of stop light. or if someone could model one up I have axcess to a 3D printer.

Thanks for the heads up, I will look into it, better now while it's still accessible .

I think 3-d printers are a ways off from doing everything people think they can, but a stop light would be VERY doable. Have to think about that one.

I can help also...if someone wants to do the design. I'm a bit backed up but not on printing capability.

I could design a stoplight model in a heartbeat if anyone is interested

*edit: like this:
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Obviously I have my hands full right now. Would have to give consideration for depth for the electronics inside. I also thought that a Stop Light that looked more like a real one...that being the depth far less than the stock and maybe even a little less than you show, BUT basically mounted through the back board. Plenty of room in the back of the machine for the electronics and many machines already do extend playfield parts through the back. Fun stuff!

Splendid -- just needs depth for the bulbs and bracket. I'd rather mount something in the corner, than cut into cabinet rear wall.
-mof

Here's a close up of a real stop light . we have one at work don't ask why.

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I'm going to start populating my new play field, I'm going to make new rails out of solid oak.
would anyone elese be interested in a set? I'm thinking 15.00+shipping.

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I'm at the same spot too, first time doing a PF swap. What's the value in using new rails?
-mof

Hi. Total noob here with 2 questions. First, what are the light sockets that I will need? Can't seem to find a part number or where to order. Second, on the cool wrappers. I'm assuming that's an aesthetic thing, meaning I don't need to worry about that unless I want to for looks, right?

Thank you so much for this list!

Take a close look at the original rails there just pine wrapped with plastic vernier to look like oak.
solid oak ones are harder, will look better and be stronger, more ridged will help keep the play field from sagging.

Ah, sounds like a good upgrade to me.
-mof

ya simple enough and I have plenty of wood. Or I could make it out of something else?
what do you think here's what I got on hand
1) Oak
2)cherry
3}Walnut
4)Mahogany
5)Bubinga
6)Maple
7)cocobolo

I vote for a stop light like that.

That would be awesome and a perfect match for those on the playfield. Personally I do not have a problem with cutting into the back board. It's just a piece of wood that could very easily be reproduced if necessary. I might try to make one out of a block of acrylic. Maybe a casting? Hmmm no sleep tonight!

Your a real brain Mark, if anyone can do it you can.

Question...which warming resistor(s) control the 2 bare 89 flashers on the very back of the pf. I'd like to change them to leds.

Me!

Those will work well with...YOUR NEW CLEAR RAMPS THAT ARE IN THE MAIL!!! Well, dsuperbee's.... and tonycip's tomorrow...

I'm interested!

I can use them in the meantime to help stop the twist in my repro PF, since I don't know when I am going to have time to start the repro work

Totally understand. I did my playfield then took a right turn to do these ramps. Have a friend waiting for me to do his HS swap...but the good news is he wants the new ramp and stoplight relocation.

Ok I made 4 extra solid oak rail set's please pm me if you want 1. add your zip code so I can get a shipping quote.
thanks 15.00 + shipping.

Had some inquiries about specifically how I did the stop light relocation. Basically you would need to remove the back board on the playfield. If you do not want to remove the playfield, you can remove the six screws that holds it to the playfield and remove it. Note that it is probably a little "stuck" in place, but after removing the 6 screws, a little "rap" and it will come loose. Relocation required extending the wire harness about 1 foot. I did not have 4 pin connectors when I did this (Will order next time) so just soldered and shrink wrapped extensions. When I get the new connectors I will redo it. Wires do not have to match the existing harness, but just do one at a time and it will work fine. Note that I put the extension on the wires attached to the stop light. So, basically cut a notch no more than 1/4" deep as shown in the photos. Initially I mounted mine in the lower screw hole but there was insufficient clearance over the plastic. Notch also allows room for the wire to come around the end of the playfield. Also used one small wire holder to keep the wire positioned. So...photos below... let me know if you have any questions.

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Nice pics. Looks good.
-mof

Mark, why didn't you refinish the board? You can see it real good now so sand-sand-sand-paint-paint-paint.

Now I get it. Thanks Mark

The board actually was repainted. But when screwed together, the paint naturally sticks together. I only took it out to do the stop light...then again to take the photos... Did you get your parts shipped? Your ramp awaits..

Now I want to make a new stop light!

Where's the best place to get the 15 replacement standup targets from?
thanks!
-mof

I had to replace on a few months back and used this one: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=313

Anyone know this? Mine are not working at all. Where can you find replacement resistors?

Yup, on their way.

Do you use the same red targets for all 9 red targets or are the lower ones different?

The six lower ones are different on my machine.

The 9 colored targets are front mount. the 6 reds lower and rear mount. Different. They have to be, since the tachometer inserts get in the way, and in the upper area the lightbulbs get in the way of where a rear bracket would go.
-mof

I bought 15 plastic targets at 1.25$ each from PBR and riveted them to my existing switches.

http://www.pbresource.com/switches/gtb-a9374red.jpg

The resistors that control these are on a board under the playfield. They use the rectangular (box-like) "mortar" resistors. The vibration from being under the playfield often causes a lead from these to break. I forget the values for the resistors, but they are commonly available at marco, etc.

Just a thought...When I got my High Speed none of my flashers were working. Figured I roll up my sleeves and start trouble shooting... But, I decided to try a new bulb first. Turned out, ALL of my flashers were burnt out.

Thanks did not realize Marco has them.

So all those resistors are just for warming up the flashers? if I use led"s will they no longer be needed?