You are probably talking about the score motor. Does it have a couple round metal plates with some notches in the edges? Lots of switches around it? If so, the answer is yes, this unit should move freely. It will move in either CW or CCW direction, but you should only move it in a CCW direction as you look down at it. If this is locked up, the game will not work. Pictures would be great, Video on youtube even better. The gear box on this motor could sure be gummed up with solidified grease. Be careful not to force things to move. Once you break the gears, you will have a hard time finding a new motor. Let us know what you find!

Does it look like this?

GotliebScoreMotor.jpg

That motor is mounted on a hinged plate. Two spring clips hold down one side. Pull those clips and the motor unit will tilt up for easier access.

Before going too crazy on the motor, make sure it's not just something binding up the rotating plates.

YES as Pafasa wrote...don't take it apart....especially if not familiar w/EM's. Try giving it a little push counter-clockwise and see if that jump starts it. Also, there is a wire w/a male plug-in like seen in pic Pafasa posted(blue wire)...make sure that is plugged into the correct female receptacle. There should be 2 there...one for motor to run and other motor won't run.

Good point Cash. The pin could be in the motor service jack. If you do have to get into the motor gearbox, you will likely be drilling rivets to break open the case. Be sure you want to take this step. There is a place called pinball salvage in Wisconsin. I have dealt with Rich there on a few hard to find parts. Maybe you would want to check with him on a used score motor before you start. Www.pinballsalvage.com

That will be awesome if that is all that was making your game from starting. *crosses fingers*

Cool Cool! Let us know.

While you have it apart, you may as well put some light oil in the holes on the top and bottom of the unit.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#motor

First check the credit unit in the backbox. It may "add credits" but if the switches are goofed up, the game will not know it has credits on.

When you took the score motor apart and removed the stacks of switches, There should have been one empty "switch" all by itself. This needs to be there and intact. It acts as a brake for the motor rotation.

Regarding the far left button, that's the coin return button which is normally purely mechanical. I have heard people will sometimes bend a coin switch actuator in a way that pushing the coin return button activates the switch. Doing so would either add credits to the machine or start it depending on how the credit plugs are set up.

Regarding the ball sitting in the return, first thing I'd check is the ball return hole switch. If that isn't the problem then maybe I can help.
I don't have a Funland schematic but the following is from a 1969 Gottlieg MIBS. The ball return arrangement may be exactly the same as your Funland or completely different. Be sure to compare this information with your own schematic especially score motor switch assignments.

I am assuming you can press the start button or the modified coin return button and the machine resets. The sequence banks reset and the score reels all zero out but the ball just sits in the ball return hole.

Questions:
a. Does the score motor keep rotating indefinitely or does it stop?
b. Before you press a button to start a game manually operate the Ball Return relay with your fingertip. Does the relay lock in under your fingertip for a moment -and- the Ball Return solenoid kicks to serve the ball?

This is the ball return sequence for MIBS:

1. The game's reset sequence is started, the XB (Game over relay) goes off.
2. The ball is sitting in the outhole so that switch is closed.
-

3. That allows the O (Ball return) relay go go on through the XB (Game over) relay, outhole switch, the TX (Tilt) relay and Motor 1C.
1.jpg
-

4. Cam 1C eventually opens and the Ball Return relay is held on by its own holding switch through motor cam 2B.
2.jpg
-

5. Since the Ball Return relay has gone on, it energizes the Ball Return solenoid when Motor Cam 4C closes which serves the ball into the shooting lane.
3.jpg
-

6. Cam 2B opens to turn the Ball Return relay back off.
4.jpg
-

These are the MIBS score motor cam locations:

Motor_Locations.jpg

If the motor was as filthy as you say it was then most likely the rest of the switches on everything else need a good clean as well. It seems like you are mechanically inclined since you took the main motor apart and cleaned it and got it un-gunked. The schematic that Steve is using...is it helping you? If not hopefully someone with the schematic in hand can chime in to help. The good thing is you have playfield lights. It has got to be something super simple. You will most likely be playing some games on it by nightfall.

yeah, so pressing the coin return button instead of the regular start button suggests some re-wiring/mod has been done, but probably can ignore that for now, since it at least seems to be triggering the start.

But, have you tried it with the playfield lowered, and a ball actually in the outhole? The ball needs to be there to trigger the outhole kicker, and then the ball needs to roll over the trough switch (which is under the apron) to trigger the ball count unit to step to ball 1.

Thanks for the video, it shows a lot. It appears the Start Relay is operating to reset a couple banks but the main reset doesn't seem to be operating at all. A lot of the main reset sequence is handled by the SB (Reset) relay. Based on the MIBS schematic, the S (Start) relay you're pushing is supposed to turn on the SB (Reset) relay through motor cam 2C. MIBS shows the Reset relay is in parallel with the total count meter. If you activate the Start relay as in the video, does the total play meter count? If not then definitely verify those two switches.

If it were my machine I'd check/clean/gap all the score motor switches as Rat_Tomago suggests and focus on switch 2C, if Funland uses the same switch assignment.

Screenshot_(180).jpg

And that was with the ball in the outhole? (just want to confirm)

Are the score reels already all set to 0? If they are, then that would be consistent with the short reset (and continue to focus on the ball eject); if they are not, then that's another possible clue.

Also, probably need to confirm whether the reset complete relay (DB) and the ball return relay (O - that's an oh, not a zero) are triggering.

It may be helpful to review and follow this startup sequence description and see where things diverge:
http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0450.html

(the text of which is repeated for convenience here)
Mr. Pinball Tip:
The following information is taken from the March 1972 Gottlieb Flying Carpet manual. This may be helpful when debugging a startup problem with this or other Gottlieb single-player games from the same period.

1. Inserting a coin or pushing the replay button actuates 'S' relay (Start relay).
2. This relay will lock-in through its own switch and a motor 2B switch.
3. 'S' relay starts the motor running.
4. Through a switch that has been closed on 'S' relay, the 'SB' relay, total play meter and reset ball count unit are actuated by switches on motor 1A and motor 2C.
5. The sequence bank is reset by motor 4B switch through 'SB Armature' switch.
6. The control bank is reset by motor 4C switch through 'SB Armature' switch.
7. When 'DB' relay is in a setup position, the motor continues to run and all score units reset to zero through motor 1A, motor 4A, and the reset control switches on 'DB' When all score units are reset to zero and motor 2B switch makes, 'DB' relay is tripped completing the reset cycle.
8. Place the ball in the out hole. When the ball makes the outhole switch, 'O' relay is actuated through a normally closed switch on 'DB'.
9. 'O' relay locks in through its own switch and a switch on motor 2B.
10. When 'O' relay is energized the motor starts running.
11. Motor 4C actuates the ball return coil through a switch on 'O' relay.
12. The ball return kicks the ball across the trough switch which steps the ball count unit once, indicating first ball in play.
13. The ball is now in the runway and ready to be shot onto the playfield.

Flip the reset bank after loosening the two wing nuts ,under the Sb relay^^ there is an armature switch that is possibly dirty or out of adjustment << one thing that will not allow a reset/start!

Also check/clean the coin doors jones plug.

On the coin door there is a slam switch can you see if it is clean and making contact?

Smersh, I am assuming by your word "checked" you mean *cleaned* and gapped. Cleaned with a small metal file or fine sandpaper (Like #600).

Push the start/reset switch like you do in the video. Does the SB (reset) relay come on? If it does not come on then does your total count meter add a number?

Great! Now check if the R (Hold) relay is coming on when you press the button. If it's not then check/gap/clean the switches on the SB (Reset Relay) If it still doesn't come on then check R (hold) relay coil resistance and see that it is not open. The Hold coil is notorious for burning because it is continuous duty like the front door coin lock-out coil

Also check the armature switch as Pin-it suggests. Here is an example of an armature switch I found on the web:

Armature_switch.jpg

Why check the Hold relay and SB switches?
You can see the circuit path in the pic below. We know the SB (Reset relay) is coming on because you've verified it. This will make the circuit path in red to turn on the R (Hold) relay. When the Hold relay goes on, it will change its make-break switch (Orange arrow) to let current flow to the rest of the game.

Screenshot_(182).jpg

The R (Hold) relay will remain on until the game's main power switch is turned back off. That's why their paper wrapper often gets charred brown, black or missing. They get hot and the heat tends to fail them over time.

Also in line is the TB (Tilt), XB (Game Over) and DB (Reset completed) relay switches. If the Hold relay is coming on then clean/gap those relays switches.

Screenshot_(182b).jpg

Ok good so far. Clean/gap the TB (Tilt), XB (Game Over) and DB (Reset completed) relay switches and try it.

If it still doesn't work then what is the status of your score reels? Are they all at zero? If they are not all at zero, manually move them off of zero by operating their solenoid plungers with your finger a step and push the start button. Do they zero out?

The machine will be in tilt condition when booted up. Lightbox/head lights will be on and "TILT" will be illuminated on the back glass. The playfield lights should be off in a tilted condition.

Turn the game on and operate the Ball Return relay with your fingertip. Does the relay lock in under your fingertip for a moment -and- the Ball Return solenoid try to serve the ball?

Also, you mention the ball count unit does nothing. Does the ball count unit subtract solenoid pulse when you start the reset?

Sounds like you're somewhere between step 7 and step 8 in the startup sequence I posted above.

The 'O' relay won't lock in if a switch is open on the reset completed relay (DB) or score motor switch 4C (usually it's a switch there; I don't have a Funland schematic).

I'd suggest checking/cleaning the switches on the DB relay, and the one score motor switch that feeds the O relay (i.e. score motor switch 4C, or whatever your schematic says it is). Both of those switches also need to be closed and working in order for the O relay to engage when a ball is in the outhole. The O relay needs to engage in order to kick the out the ball to the plunger.

The ball count unit will not advance until the ball kicks out to the plunger, passing over the switch that's in the ball trough (which is hidden under the lower apron, but mounted on the underside of the playfield to the right of the outhole.

But try cleaning/gapping the DB switches and the score motor switch 4C (or per the schematic).

Good luck!

Smersh do you have a schematic? If you do then can you scan it and PM? It would take a lot of guess work out of this. I have a gut feeling it's going to end up being a score motor switch malfunction. If all the associated switches are working normally then it may come down to testing for voltages and a schematic will be necessary.

You can probably get a schematic from Steve Young at Pinball Resource http://www.pbresource.com/ They're simply fantastic to work with and know their stuff.

The sneaky thing with checking continuity is that it can flow in two directions: the short path over the two contact points, or the LONG path all the way back through the circuit and around through the test leads. So even though the contacts look open, the 'back path' could still provide continuity through the meter. Doesn't happen on every switch pair (especially if there are other open switches in the path), but on some switches, that open pair of contacts is all there is opening the circuit.

There's also the fact a switch may be going through a coil and the transformer, which will show only a few ohms. The only way to be sure is to unsolder a leg. But really, that's too much work for practical repair. The only time I'd get out a VOM is for a very difficult repair to solve. If I'm tracking problems on a live circuit I opt to use a 24v bulb instead of a VOM for a few reasons.

I personally rely on eye inspection of the blades, their contacts and ensure the solder lugs/attached wires aren't shorting to anything else. But that's just me.

When the game is powered on, the backbox should be lit, the playfield not lit, the Game Over light should be on, and the Tilt light should be on.

If you power up, and then tilt the game (so the playfield goes dark, and Tilt lights up), then power the game off. If you then power it back on, what does it do?

It's not unusual for the games to power up in a fully lit condition though, if it's stuck in the middle of the reset sequence and can't quite complete it. Since you're able to get it to reset most of the way, I'd suggest focusing on the 'O' relay/ball return problem. That's what's preventing it from completing the reset. When the ball return switch is made, the 'O' relay needs to activate and lock in while the motor runs, so the ball can then kick out.

Do you have the schematic yet? You will need it.