Gotta start somewhere. What's happening with your driver board LED status lamps?
Kazak, what exactly do you mean by the fuses "seem ok"...did you take any voltage measurements at the fuses? Start with a DMM if you have one. Do you know how to measure AC and DC voltages. Check each fuse of the driver board for voltages. The best way to do this would be to clip the negative lead of the meter to ground and check each fuse at both sides of the fuse clips (helps to rule out fuse and fuse clip problems). Then take measurements at the test points on the board. Taking these first measurements will help us to establish what voltages are where.

424px-WPC_Power_Summary.jpg

Huh. Sure you are measuring correct? These fuse values really low. These are also AC voltages (helps if you write VAC at the end of your measurement instead of just V, to keep things straight)

For example, F112 should be around 51.4 VAC. That's your high power solenoids raw AC before rectify & conditioning. Most of the others are not right either.

Check the voltages on the transformer outputs to see if they are correct. Post the results.

I dont have the schematic with me right now, but looking at the picture wayout440 posted above you can see on the left side that the transformer has the following outputs (hard to see, but I think I'm close): 6.3VAC, 61.4VAC, 18VAC, 13.3VAC, 9VAC, and 9.6VAC. (I believe that the transformer also has the output wires labeled on it.)

So you would turn on the game to get power to the transformer and then put your meter on Volts AC. Measure each of the transformer outputs to see that you get the correct voltages. I can't look right now, but I think the wires from each of the transformer outputs go to a molex connector that you can use as a good place to check the voltages.

Let me know if you need more info.

In addition to my previous post...

You could also check the voltages at the driver board. For example, you should have 6.3VAC on J115 pins 3 and 12.

If you look at the picture posted above, you can see that the 6.3VAC transformer output (That's the coil looking part... It's a transformer winding symbol) goes to the J115 plug on the driver board in the back box. It looks like J115 is a 12-pin plug and one side of the transformer winding goes to pins 2 though 6 and the other side of the transformer winding goes to pins 7, 8, & 10-12. Pin 1 is ground. For this you would set your meter to read Volts AC and put one probe on one side of the winding and the other probe on the other side. So you might put the probes on pin 2 and 7 or 3 and 10. Either way, you should have 6.3VAC like shown in the picture.

Repeat for the other windings. The next one would be the 61.4VAC winding. That goes to J102 pins 8-9 and 5-6. So you'd put your meter on J102 pin 8 and pin 5 for example to read 61.4VAC.

I hope that's what you were asking? If not, I'll try to clear it up some more.

I'm trying to see if somehow the voltages are dropping at the connectors. If you test at the board and things don't look good, you then try measuring closer to the transformer. Hopefully this will get you closer to where the problem is. So for example, if you were to unplug the board and just measure the transformer directly, then you know the problem must be the transformer.

In that is the case, then I would verify that your meter is actually set to read AC and not DC. Next, I would check the voltage input to the transformer. For me in the US it would be 120VAC, for you in Australia, I think it's 240VAC.

You could also do a quick check at your wall plug to make sure you are getting 240VAC. If not, then you can ignore the pinball machine as it's probably fine.

Original issue was likely a bad ribbon cable between the CPU and driver board. This has the commands for the solenoids, gi and controlled lamps.

Don't have a schematic handy. Is c11 for the coil circuit?

On the power driver board, C11 is the filter/smoothing cap for the output of the 20VDC bridge (flasher power).

So, the first thing I would check is fuse F111. Make sure it's the correct Amp rating. I'm going to guess the cap shorted internally and the fuse didn't blow, so you probably have a fuse that's bigger than it's supposed to be.

Also, since there are multiple problems here, I would say to do the following and post back with your results before doing anything else...

1.) Turn Power Off

2.) Check ALL fuses to make sure that they are good and also that they are the correct value. Post Results.

3.) Unplug J115, J102, J101, J112 from the power driver board, J605 from the DMD controller board, and J4 from the sound board. (Keep track of where each goes so you can plug them back in later.)

4.) Be careful with this step as there will be voltage on the plugs... Turn on machine and measure AC Volts across the following pins of those disconnected cables and tell us what you get... (Note, the machine will appear dead, but the transformer should have power. We want to check the transformer outputs in this test.)
J102: Pin 5 & 8 (51.4 VAC)
J102: Pin 2 & 4 (16 VAC)
J101: Pin 5 & 6 (13.3 VAC)
J101: Pin 1 & 2 (9 VAC)
J112: Pin 3 & 5 (9.8 VAC)
J605: Pin 1 & 2 (80 VAC)
J605: Pin 3 & 5 (100 VAC)
J4: Pin 1 & 4 (36 VAC)
J4: Pin 4 & 6 (18 VAC)
J4: Pin 1 & 6 (18 VAC)

5.) Post the results and we'll see if we can figure out what's wrong.

You can do it before you replace the cap because you aren't plugging the connectors into the board yet for this test. We are trying to isolate the problem.

Another test to do before removing the cap would be to check if it's shorted. Then you can go ahead and replace the cap with a new one.

If you switched on the game with those cables disconnected, then the transformer should still output the correct voltages. Are you measuring on the board or the cables that you disconnected? You should measure the on the disconnected cables with the transformer powered?

If you still get nothing, then I'll look at my schematics later to see where to check next. Please keep use updated.

Looking at the schematic on page 3 here: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_WPC_Schematics_Revised_May_17_1993_.pdf

It looks like it's a little different than the one I was looking at yesterday.
So, that J4 stuff was wrong. It should be J501 on the sound board...
J501: Pin 1 & 5 (18 VAC)
J501: Pin 4 & 5 (18 VAC)
J501: Pin 1 & 4 (36 VAC)

As for J112, I'm not sure if the schematic is wrong here as well, but I'd say you're probably good on the voltages.
If J112 pins 3 and 5 are shorted together, you should get zero volts not 3 VAC, so I'm not sure about that, but I think your good.

So, check the J501 stuff and post back. If those voltages look good, then I'd say your transformer is fine and we can move on to the power driver board.

Can you post a picture of the J501 and J112 plugs showing where the wires go and are bridged? I just want to make sure I'm telling you the correct pins to check.

J501 should have 3 wires going to it from the transformer also.

Hmm... Was the game working previously? It's quite possible the schematics are incorrect. Williams schematics are known to have errors.

So, if it was working previously we can assume that the wiring is correct since that didn't change.

On the connector that was plugged into J501, check that you have 18VAC between pins 4 and 6. I believe that you have correctly checked all of the other pins.

If that all checks out, then the next step is to replace that C11 cap that blew up. Once that's done you can plug the transformer connectors back into the power driver board (without connecting any of the other boards so we don't do any extra damage just in case the power driver board is bad). You can then use the test points on that board to test the DC voltages to see if they are correct.

I would probably recommend doing this one by one in case anything is wrong you can find the problem faster.

So, for example, you could first connect only J102 and turn on the machine. If nothing starts smoking, probe for DC volts on Test Point 6 (TP6). You should have 50VDC although it could be as high as 75VDC that I've seen on mine. That's normal. While you have that test going also probe TP7 for 20VDC (should be close to 20VDC for this one) since that's also powered from J102.

If that is ok, then you can connect J101 and and check for the following:
TP8 = 18VDC
TP3 = 12VDC
TP2 = 5VDC

If those are fine, then connect J112 and check that TP1 = 12VDC. This is unregulated so it could be higher. I'm not sure on exactly what, but it might be 20VDC when you measure it.

J115 doesn't have test points and that is VAC for the GI lights, so let's skip that for now.

Let us know what you find. Hopefully we are getting close to the problem.

Ok, so now, that you have checked the power driver board's test points, it should be good.

Check, a few more things... Measure the AC Volts between J120 Pins 7, 8, 9, 10 & 11 to ground. Each pin to ground should be 6.3VAC.

Next using DC Volts, measure the following to GROUND...
J109, Pins 7 and 5 (Should be 50VDC [Might be up to 75VDC])
J107, Pins 1, 2 & 3 (Should be 50VDC [Might be up to 75VDC])
J107, Pins 5 & 6 (Should be 20VDC)
J114, Pins 1 & 2 (Should be 12VDC)
J114, Pins 3 & 4 (Should be 5VDC)
J118, Pin 4 (Should be 5VDC)

Post your actual readings.

If that all checks out you can turn off the game and plug in the rest of the connectors to see if the game works. Let us know what you see.

I'd say test the transistors for shorts like you are going to do and you might also want to check for diode shorts at the flipper coils if you don't find any bad transistors. Unfortunately, I think to check the diodes, you'll have to solderer one side of them. I'm not sure how to check them in circuit.

Ok ... chiming in here ... before you go take stuff apart ....

1) 99.99% chance the "nothing" works issue is simply a bad ribbon cable between the cpu and power board.

2) 99.99% chance C11 doing the "kablooey" is a simple misconnection of the plugs center-top of the power board.

On games that have insert board flashlamps (or other non-playfield devices that run off 20vdc, like mars lamps) it's VERY EASY to accidentally plug that plug onto the wrong header.

When you do this, +50 goes into the +20 circuit and C11 blows.

Replace C11, replace the ribbon cable, double check ALL the connectors, and I bet your game works fine.

I probably should have been a little more clear in my last post...

Plug in J115, J102, J101, and J112 to the power driver board. Now, with J120, J109, J107, J104, J114, and J118 unplugged, turn on the game and measure the voltages on the pins of the power driver board. We are trying to determine if the power driver board is delivering the correct voltages before going on. If the voltages are correct, then we can plug in some more things as the driver board is probably ok.

Also, litz has some good points. If all of the voltages check out now that you've replaced the C11 cap, then maybe it was just that the ribbon cable was bad.

Do you have another ribbon cable that you can try?

You might be able to check continuity between each pin, but it's going to be much easier to get a known working one from another game or a new one to test with.