(Topic ID: 16877)

FT GI issues

By spanks_4

11 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by spanks_4
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 11 years ago

Are the sling lights and the lights under the lane guides connected to the pop bumper lights? Every other light is working *minus pop bumpers because I cut the leads for new sockets* and the GI lights on the bottom. I remember the pop bumper lights were yellow wires and so are the lower GI so I'm thinking that's the issue, but need to make sure!

Also anyone know what bulbs go behind the back playfield Lie mural? I have a 44, 3 555s, and need to know what goes in the gray sockets if someone can help out.

Another issue I just found: Ok more: All of the backbox GI lights are out except for the ones across the top that light up the Fish Tales part of the translight! Any idea where to start on this issue also?

All of the flashers are working in the back box so not sure if maybe the back box GI is also tied to the pop bumper string somehow?

#2 11 years ago

Check fuses F106 thru F110 to see if they need to be replaced.

If they're good... check the J120 and J121 connectors to see if they look brown or anything is up with 'em. You could swap J120 and J121 to see if a different combo of lights turns on as well.

The J120/J121 burned pins is a common issue and a little searching should find a few different topics explaining the issue.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-89-driver-board-j110-burned-connector
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theatre-of-magic-j120-and-j121-issue

#3 11 years ago

Will check those fuses and the 2 GI connectors.

Still curious though if the pop bumper lights being out of the loop will kill the lower GI? Like I stated the wires going to the pop bumper leads are yellow and the lower PF gi lights are also yellow wires.... Hopefully the parts will be in this week so I can put the pops back on and see if that fixes my theory as they were working before I tore the machine down.

#4 11 years ago

Also inspect the header pins on the board for the list connectors, most likely they will need reflowed or replaced

#5 11 years ago

Cutting the leads to the pop bumper bulb sockets should not affect other portions of the circuit, unless you cut the yellow wire. If you cut the yellow wire any downstream (further from the power supply) portion of the circuit would not work. If in doubt check it with an ohmmeter.

#6 11 years ago

The connectors are both good, all the wires under the PF are good, and still no bulbs!!!!!!!!
I'm still baffled by this damn GI issue also! The line is purple/white and the upper portion of it works, but not the lower part... Also the 2 boat GI don't work either so wtf???

Also now the flippers don't work, the coin door/start button are all dead also!!! WTF did I do?? I know you're not supposed to normally mess with the game on, but I was wiggling wires trying to find a loose connection and I heard a little pop.

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from spanks_4:

but I was wiggling wires trying to find a loose connection and I heard a little pop.

check the fuse again....

#8 11 years ago

Test continuity from pop bumper leads to bad socket leads. Also, you can switch J120 and J121 to see if you have issues with cracked solder on one of the connectors. Test continuity of AC in(J115) to AC out(J120/121) through the fuses(pins 2,3,4,5,6 on J115). Also, you can test the sockets by measuring resistance from one lead to another with a good bulb in the socket(s/b around 4 ohms). Check the connectors themselves to make certain all wires are secured in the connector. If still nothing, pull the driver board out and examine the back of the board for burns/hacks. While out, you should replace any burnt headers in the GI circuit. You can also reflow pins from J115 to the triacs and test continuity from the pins on J115 to the triac and then from the triac to J120/121. If after all that you still GI issues, I would replace the associated triacs.

Sean

#9 11 years ago

Updates: Talked to jim at rottendog and the board hit the mail on it's way to him today! Most likely the U120 chip or whatever, but hopefully it doesn't cost a fortune to fix a new board!

Also the GI issues were all because of three fuses. I had tested every fuse in the game, but guess I did something to blow them and just didn't realize it.

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