(Topic ID: 25521)

F-14 Restoration

By Wolfmarsh

11 years ago


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  • 151 posts
  • 48 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by RonSS
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 151 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 11 years ago

I have been working on my F-14 restoration for a while now, but I move pretty slow.

I only get a few hours a week to work on it, so I wanted to at least make a little progress before I started a post on it.

The playfield was restored and cleared by whridlsoncestood, you can see his thread about it here:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-playfield-restorationwhridlsoncestood

I'll start with some pics of how it was from the start:

F14_Before_Starting.jpgF14_Before_Starting.jpg FrontFaceDamage.jpgFrontFaceDamage.jpg FrontCornerDamage.jpgFrontCornerDamage.jpg BackboxDamage1.jpgBackboxDamage1.jpg

#2 11 years ago

Pics of the start of restoring the cabinet.

Before sanding
Cabinet_Before_Sanding.jpgCabinet_Before_Sanding.jpg

after the sanding
Cabinet_First_Sanding.jpgCabinet_First_Sanding.jpg

first coat of primer
Cabinet_First_Primer.jpgCabinet_First_Primer.jpg

first filling/sanding
Cabinet_First_Filling.jpgCabinet_First_Filling.jpg

second coat of primer
Cabinet_Second_Primer.jpgCabinet_Second_Primer.jpg

#3 11 years ago

Here is another pic I had taken of what the inside of the cab looked like.

NastyCabinet.jpgNastyCabinet.jpg

#4 11 years ago

Nice, can't wait to see it finished!

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

Nice, can't wait to see it finished!

+1 I'm about to do this with me Taxi.

#6 11 years ago

Nice work,

Are you getting some of planetary's decals for the cabinet - I actually did the artwork and gave the rights to Rick. Would be great to see a nice pick of them installed if they are Planetary's.

#7 11 years ago

Yep, the decals are from planetary. Already bought them a month or two ago. Sitting in the mailing tube waiting on me to finish the painting.

#8 11 years ago

Better take them out of the tube....It takes awhile for them to relax so that you can apply them.

#9 11 years ago

I've got a BK cabinet I'm going to start the same process on. What kind of primer did you use? Spray or Brush?

#10 11 years ago

That's goona be nice.

#11 11 years ago

I used spray. I can't imagine trying to use a brush on something like this.

This weekend I will be doing the first coat of black.

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

I used spray. I can't imagine trying to use a brush on something like this.
This weekend I will be doing the first coat of black.

With a gun or rattle can....Details man

#13 11 years ago

Just a rattle can, especially for primer. I have a HVLP gun, but I hate cleaning the setup, so I figured rattle would be fine, even for the black coat, since decals are going over it. The blotchiness you see in the pics isn't from the spray job, its mostly because I have already started working on smoothing the latest coat before I remembered to take a pic and I've already gotten oils from my hands all over it. Before the next coat, it gets cleaned with cleaner then a tack cloth to take away any dirt/oil/dust I have introduced during the sanding/filling.

I use Krylon brand spray, I personally find it better than Rustoleum.

I will take some closeups of the corners and edges as well. They were so banged up, and I "rebuilt" each one of them by building up a huge layer of putty and sanding it back down. They are all really sharp 90 degree edges now.

#14 11 years ago

i didnt know they had f14 decals !

#15 11 years ago

Nice! cant wait!

#16 11 years ago

Nice to see one of my playfields going to a good home. Good luck with it

#18 11 years ago

I have a f14 in the same condition and I am going to do the playfield myself this will be my first attempt at this will also be ordering decal kit for my cabinet already started removing mylar from playfield

#19 11 years ago

How do you guys mark all the wires where everything goes?

#20 11 years ago

labels and sharpies

The best method for removing the wiring harness though is to get a large piece of cardboard the size of the PF. Draw on it the major assemblies, making notes. Then, disconnect everything on the underside of the PF and slide the entire wiring assembly and mechanics wholesale over onto the cardboard. Keep it there until you're ready to slide it back. If you plan on dipping the harness into the bathtub then just label as much as possible and take lots of pictures.

#21 11 years ago

Mine is getting a bath, so I wasn't able to label anything. Just going by pics and memory. I took a pic of every place I cut wire, and left a small 5-10mm section of wire on the solder side of the cut, so I could match it up later if need be.

3 weeks later
#22 11 years ago

Tonight my buddy is coming over (BadBrick here on pinside) to help put the side decals on.

I've already put the leg brackets and ground braid back in, as well as put the front decal on.

Pics coming tonight after the decals are on, can you tell I'm excited?

#23 11 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

Tonight my buddy is coming over (BadBrick here on pinside) to help put the side decals on.
I've already put the leg brackets and ground braid back in, as well as put the front decal on.
Pics coming tonight after the decals are on, can you tell I'm excited?

Very nice. I am looking forward to your updates.
Thanks for sharing.

#24 11 years ago

We got the decals on, there is still a little adhesive residue around some of the edges, and some paint got "trimmed" off as I was trimming the decals back, but it came out fantastic.

Any white you can see around the edges of the decals will be taken care of in the next few days, but i was excited enough to go ahead and post pics. Thanks to BadBrick for his help.

DecalsOn_FirstPass.jpgDecalsOn_FirstPass.jpg DecalsOn_FirstPass2.jpgDecalsOn_FirstPass2.jpg

#25 11 years ago

LOOKS GREAT!!

Curious what you think of the black as far as gloss. When my SC was decalled last month I felt the black was a bit flat. I emailed Rick and I kinda got the "it is what it is" story. He probably took it as bitching but I was more asking why it didn't have a glossier sheen.

#26 11 years ago

I like the satin, I think it actually looks really good. I used a satin undercoat as well, so it kinda matches the sheen of the inside of the cab as well.

#27 11 years ago

That looks awesome and may have inspired me to do my FT. Nice work!

#28 11 years ago

Looks AMAZING!!!!!

Little OT, but I saw a CL ad for an overpriced F14 and I was wondering, do the photos make the ad look like a scam?

sandiego.craigslist.org link

#29 11 years ago
Quoted from kwiKimart:

Little OT, but I saw a CL ad for an overpriced F14 and I was wondering, do the photos make the ad look like a scam?

The part that gets me is where it says "credit cards accepted."

Hey Wolfmarsh, I could almost see driving to Charleston just to play your F14 when it's done. Wouldn't mind taking a stab at that Yukon Special as well.
If the chick in the blue bikini (from another thread... I'm sure you know what I'm talking about) will be there, drinks are on me.

#30 11 years ago

The difference between night and day. Very nice.

#31 11 years ago
Quoted from SPeD66:

Hey Wolfmarsh, I could almost see driving to Charleston just to play your F14 when it's done. Wouldn't mind taking a stab at that Yukon Special as well.
If the chick in the blue bikini (from another thread... I'm sure you know what I'm talking about) will be there, drinks are on me.

You are welcome any time you want. We've been playing Yukon on and off tonight, plays so good for an old EM.

Don't know the girl in the blue unfortunately, but there are a ton of them like that here, lol. Charleston was recently named the #1 city for having attractive people.

Lots and lots of beach bunnies.

#32 11 years ago

That looks great, a special treat for me to see the artwork on a machine, looking forward to seeing the whole cabinet with trims.

#33 11 years ago

The white edges are gone now, I masked everything off right to the edge of the decals, and resprayed the corners and seams so they disappeared.

Gonna put on the rails and some of the internal hardware in tonight. I bought new rails from Doug Huse, and the other metal stuff has been tumbling and been run over the buffer.

Comparison pic with the white edges, then the pic with the white edges gone.

// Error: Image 48212 not found //
DecalsOn_PaintTrimmed.jpgDecalsOn_PaintTrimmed.jpg

#34 11 years ago

Wolf, how did you remove the side rails? I can't imagine how to remove them without destroying them and I can't find new or NOS to replace them with. I'm restoring a F-14 and now's the time to refinish the cabinet, but the side rails have me baffled.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#35 11 years ago

Looking sweet

I'm also interested in the rails questions as I have a Pinbot cabinet I'm going to do some work on. Did you fill in the nail holes?

#36 11 years ago
Quoted from MadPole:

Wolf, how did you remove the side rails?

I took a small chisel, put it between the nail head and the rail and lightly tapped with a small hammer until it moved out enough to grab and pull on.

Barely made any marks in the rail, and the ones it did came out when I regrained the area. Only problem I ran into was that it wasn't as easy as I had hoped to take out the dents in the folded over lip that sits over the glass. I'm not experienced enough to do that and make it look presentable.

I ended up decided to buy a new set from Doug Huse at letsplaypinball.com. Email him and let him know that you need rails for an F-14. They aren't cheap, but I didn't expect them to be.

Quoted from GListOverflow:

I'm also interested in the rails questions as I have a Pinbot cabinet I'm going to do some work on. Did you fill in the nail holes?

I didn't fill in the nail holes, because the new rails I bought also use the holes.

#37 11 years ago

Looks fantastic.

#38 11 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

I didn't fill in the nail holes, because the new rails I bought also use the holes.

Does it seem like the replacement screw-nails will still be secure in the existing holes? I was thinking that just pulling them straight out might kind of strip out the hole, since they have threads on them.

#39 11 years ago

I wouldn't necessarily call them threads. They rotate as you pull them out, but it really was no where near as difficult as I had built it up to be in my mind.

So, in a "twisted" turn of events, I knew I had bought 3/4" nails because I couldn't find 1/2" in stock anywhere, so I had begun taking them down to 1/2" nails. I had laid them against the side of the cabinet and thought they were definitely too long. On a whim, I tried one, and the thickness of the rail is JUST enough to keep them poking through, but they are longer than the original, so they grab another 1/4" of new material/hole as well.

They are holding just fine as of now. Got the right rail on, gonna do the left in a bit if I dont fall asleep in the chair first.

#41 11 years ago

Thanks for the info. I guess I will go ahead and take my rails off and not be afraid of getting them back on again

#42 11 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

I took a small chisel, put it between the nail head and the rail and lightly tapped with a small hammer until it moved out enough to grab and pull on.

Thanks for the info.

Looks like I'm going to add cabinet restoration to the long list of things I've never done before taking on this project. This is the first time I've gone beyond basic shopping out of game. There's nothing quite like diving in and learning on the fly.

Thanks for your time and I look forward to seeing updates on your restoration.

#43 11 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

The white edges are gone now, I masked everything off right to the edge of the decals, and resprayed the corners and seams so they disappeared...
Comparison pic with the white edges, then the pic with the white edges gone.

Beautiful! It's amazing what a difference those little details make!

#44 11 years ago
Quoted from BadBrick:

Beautiful! It's amazing what a difference those little details make!

Thanks again for your help.

All of the little bubbles dissipated, and masking/painting is definitely the easiest way to get rid of the seams/edges. I got the right rail on last night, gonna do the left one tonight.

2 weeks later
#45 11 years ago

Thought I would update with some more progress pics.

Since the last update, I have put the rails, legs, and backbox hinges back on. Installed the pinball pro sub, put the new plunger assembly on, repainted the coin door, and put the lockdown receiver back on.

The lockdown receiver was pretty bad, so i decided to paint it and redo it the way I thought looked good. I know they didn't do these style labels on this machine, but I like them.

I also dipped the handle in plastidip a few times to give it the same look as some of the newer games.

CabinetComingTogether.jpgCabinetComingTogether.jpg CabinetComingTogether_SideView.jpgCabinetComingTogether_SideView.jpg RedoneLockdownReceiver.jpgRedoneLockdownReceiver.jpg NewSubwoofer.jpgNewSubwoofer.jpg

#46 11 years ago

Very nice, big thumbs up

#47 11 years ago

Looking great!

#48 11 years ago

Where'd you get your ground braid? I need to pick up some and didn't find it on PBL.

#49 11 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Where'd you get your ground braid? I need to pick up some and didn't find it on PBL.

Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HGHQYM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

#50 11 years ago

I like the black out lockdown latch assembly.

The ground braid can also be found here, about halfway down the page - http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

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