No, those memory coils look ok. Just make sure the plungers move freely.

No it's a 9 pin connector under the playfield. It's a convenience connector. If you unplug it, and the pf fuse doesn't blow, then I would suspect a problem in that target bank.

I don't have an EBD schematic so I can't answer that. Another thing you could try is unplugging the SEB, not sure if the game will boot, but if the coil fuse doesn't blow, this may narrow down the issue.

Yep, I forgot about the protection blocking diodes in the SEB circuit. These diodes prevent power from back-feeding through the circuit and energizing the wrong coil.

yeah my bad! I was thinking of F2K

Cool, so you popped your cherry , LOL. Lot's of great people in the pinball hobby.

BTW, I picked up my 3rd EBD the other day. This only lights the GI's, here we go again!

Oh, now that you can start a game, run feature lamp test to see if the SEB clicks. That would be the first push of the red self test button inside the coin door. Also make sure the lamp socket by the SEB has a good bulb at flashes with the SEB clicking.

Oh man, congrats on finally narrowing down the problem! I've been following this thread for the past week or 2 and it's been very educational and interesting. LoveF2K and dothedoo, you guys are real assets to the hobby. Blake, you're unstoppable! I look forward to seeing you guys get this game going 100%!

It should be. I was just thinking back to the electrical tape that was in there and thought that should be checked. As long as the other coils fire, then it doing it's job. You can continue the self diagnostic tests and run the coils. They should all fire except the DT that is disconnected. Push the red button until you here coils firing.

Thanks for the kind words!

That's correct. The jumper on the board ties pin 4 to pin 9. Pin 4 is the power source for the SEB circuits, pin 7 is the output when the relay is not energized and pin 5 is the output when it is energized.

Sorry, I'm trying to get caught up here. You guys have been very busy tonight.

Best of luck to you! You're in good hands here. Can't wait to see what the culprit was after all this! You must be relieved to know you won't have to buy too many more fuses too, lol!

We know it functioned when it kicked the ball out. It energizes the relay for that coil.

LOL. I have another EBD too (sold one other that I put a playfield overlay on, it needed a lot of electronic work too), and the wiring harness in the head is all hacked up. That's gonna be a fun one.

It does feel good when you bring a game back to life. My second pin, I bought non-working, was a Xenon. I spent weeks on it. It had a bad bridge rectifier. No sound. Would go into attract but would not coin up or start a game. Turned out to be maxed out service credits stored in memory and dirty switch contacts at the trough.

So the individual coils for the drop targets read about 50 ohms, right? What do the reset coils read?

Wow, so what did you have to do? Clear out the memory? I've never run into that exact problem.

Cool. I did high end restos on the first 2. I recently sold the second one to pay off some debt. This one now will be my keeper, hopefully. I have an NOS pf that I had Ron Kruzman clear coat a few years ago ready to swap. I have been hoarding the mechanical parts and already tore down the DT banks, replated them and rebuilt them. same with the outhole and saucer eject. I was thinking of copying the game on the original EBD flyer. It has red finned posts instead of blue and the white bumper caps. What do you think? I have the white rings so far. I had a chance a few years back to buy the rare white caps but the guy wanted $300 for them. I wish they were reproduced.

IIRC, yes I cleared the memory but ended up having to change the coin door, I guess a short somewhere. But the real ball buster was that dirty switch, it was hidden under the ball release mech mounting plate

Wow, that is wacky, LoveF2k!

Totally agree, there's such a great feeling of accomplishment when you get a pin finally up and running. That's part of what got me hooked on this thread-a chance to see someone get to experience it for themselves for the first time. Blake is really diving in with this too, every suggestion is taken and reported back on. Too many tech threads where the author just stops posting and never follows up. Either way, keep up the great work, everyone!

I have almost as much fun fixing them as I have playing them..........ALMOST !

I've had probably 40 games in and out of my collection over the years, mostly non-working projects, plus I've worked on tons of machines for other people. I'm happy to say that I not had one yet that I couldn't get running. And like you said, that is the thrill. When you think back and go through the checklist in your mind of everything you had to fix to get a game working you realize what an accomplishment it really is.

Thanks for following along......I'm sure there will be more.

I think that's a great idea. Man I saw a set of those caps a few years ago, can't remember where but I know they weren't anywhere near $300. Wow. I would have loved to have that $1700 EBD playfield he just sold. That thing was amazing! He does such nice work (well, so do you!) and I'd love to have him do my spare Quicksilver playfield for me.

Thanks for helping troubleshoot his game.....another EBD saved!

When I got my Nine Ball running everything worked, but it wouldn't start a game. After verifying all of the trough and ball capture switches were working I traced it to a dirty credit switch. No matter how hard you pressed or rubbed the blades back and forth against each other -- nothing. Took the switch apart and cleaned it really well and it worked fine. I've never had that happen before with a credit switch. Crazy.

Holy crap! Somebody paid 1700 clams for an EBD playfield? That's about the max I ever spent on a complete game. The problem with the white caps is, what if you break one, then what? And they do break.

I couldn't agree more with that statement! I fix household appliances for a living, and while there is a sort of feeling of accomplishment with certain jobs, it's nothing like getting a pinball up and running and playing nicely. The tech end of this hobby has taught me more about electronics and mechanics than working on appliances, and has actually helped me understand the household appliances I work on better.

I must add too, the fact that the game being saved is an Eight Ball Deluxe was another reason I was compelled to follow this thread. I've never had the pleasure to play a really nice one, and have added it to the short list of games I want to own/restore one day. I was just recalling the other day (while reading this thread) a tournament I was participating in at the Silverball Museum a couple years ago, and Eight Ball Deluxe was the game I was on with my opponent. I was up last (second), and the game was really close. I had racked up a decent bonus through the game and was on my last ball. I decided to shoot for multipliers, having collected most of the balls already. Worked up to 4X and reflexively took a wild shot at the ball screaming down to the right flipper--it nailed the 5X drop target and came racing back straight down the middle of the flippers, ending the game. The final scores were close, and I eagerly watched the bonus count...I wound up like 20,000 points above his score in a game where we both had over 2,000,000 points. It was such a victory! Ever since I've vowed to get to really know the game, but the one at the Silverball just never seems to be working 100%. Maybe 90-95%, but that's the difference between having a game for yourself and a game on location. Those fine adjustments and finishing touches can always be made when it's your game. Anyway, I've pulled this thread off track-I'll help by quoting the last tech-related entries before I chimed in. You guys rock! (I'm still getting accustomed to the 'quote' feature on the site, so forgive my formatting if it's a little funky)

blake had said:

to which f2k replied:

doothedoo last said:

/frunch sits back and grabs a a bucket of popcorn

I have a nineball too, it kicks my ass all the time!

You guys *both* have a Nine Ball!?! That's like the #1 game on my wish list right now! Soooooooo jealous!! Is it a good game? I've never had the chance to play one, but I've wanted one ever since I saw it online years ago.

Ya we still have to figure out what's shorted on the 7-bank. At one point, I think he said one of the coils read 3 ohms. I'm pretty sure only flipper coils read that low and he wasn't testing flipper coils.

EBD got you in that tournament game. The bonus multiplier targets are a sucker shot, but can be very lucrative late in the game. If I have the 56K bonus lit I *may* shoot for them. If I have the 112K bonus lit I certainly do, but never if I'm still on the first rack. Good thing you had enough bonus to take the lead in the end!

Neither have I.....and I played them new in 1981. EBD, Centaur, Fathom, Medusa...they all just play, well, sluggish. I haven't figured out why, but I intend to tackle that problem when I restore my EBD and Centaur.

Best sounds evah.

It's a very good game. Not highest on my list for fun factor, Quicksilver earns that award, but because it's so difficult to achieve multiball it keeps enticing you to play again and again thinking, "I can do better, I can get multiball this time." It's one of those games I didn't pay much attention to in the arcade, but after playing Classic_Stern's restored game I was completely fascinated by it. Wish I would have known you wanted one. NoahPDavis just sold his for $800 yesterday I think, but he's clear on the other side of the country and it had quite a bit of playfield wear like mine.

I totally would have jumped on that too! There was a couple within 5-6 hours of here recently but I was too late on the one, and the other one is/was up in Mass. for $1850 in really nice shape. I don't know if that one sold yet, though I'm guessing it probably did. I don't exactly have the room for another pin at the moment, but would be willing to sell one to make space/funds for it. If you guys happen to hear of an EBD or a NB for sale within 6 hours or so of NJ, please let me know!

Yup, Probably bringing mine to the Allentown show. You going?

I am, actually! I'm even more excited to go to the show now (if that's even possible)!!! That would be so cool if you brought your NB! I'm going Friday, when are you?

Def. Fri and pos Sat

Flipper coils are not fused by the playfield, neither are the cabinets coils, coin lockout and knocker coil. I think you are confusing reset coils with the memory coils. Reset coils are the larger ones that lift the drop targets, either at start of a new game or when all are knocked down. Memory coils are the small coils that will actually knock down the targets, for instance, when playing 2 player game, when player one drains and player two's ball starts, the targets that were down when player two's previous ball drained will be knocked down by the memory coils so he can resume the game where it left off. Those coils should be around 53 ohm. The larger ones should be more than 3 though, I would change any coil and/or diodes on that coil if reading that low

Cool, maybe we can meet up for a couple games on your NB at some point!

That's very interesting, I never really thought about how the memory-drop target banks work. So one coil resets the bank and then the individual 'memory coils' knock down the targets that had already been gotten? Any idea why there are 2 coils at one end of the bank with 3 lugs where the rest have 2? I was surprised to see that is how it was designed.

Edit: reviewing some of the previous posts, I think I may have found the answer to my question about the 3-lug coils. I gather that only coils on the SEB use the extra diode, and targets 1-9 and 2-10 are both controlled by the SEB, therefore use 3 lug coils in order to utilize 2 diodes. Interesting!

Yes, It's always nice to meet pinheads in person. I will look for you.

about the EBD coils. Yes, the extra diode on the 3 lug coils prevents back voltage going to the other coils in the SEB circuit. I didn't learn about this until after I restored 2 EBD games LOL. But luckily I replaced the coils with the correct value and didn't have any issues. The coils chosen by the EBD designers were coils that are not need to react fast during game play, the SEB wouldn't be able to react fast enough, so the outhole, saucer eject and the DT resets were used. If it were the slings or pop bumpers it would have never worked.

Flipper coils have 3 lugs but not wired like the EBD coils. Flipper coils are basically 2 coils in one. One is the flipper bat action and when the EOS switch opens or closes depending game, the secondary coil or flipper hold coil takes over. This prevent s over heating the coil when you hold a flipper up to trap the ball.

Ah, so the SEB-controlled coils with the 3rd lug only have one winding?

Yes,