F4 does indeed feed the solenoids along with the flipper relay, and passes through bridge rectifier #2. Looking at those pics it's pretty hard to determine which is #1 or #2. And just stabbing in the dark, it appears some wires are missing from both.

Really looks like your rectifier/power board needs to be rebuilt as those are rather shady fixes. They might work but it'll take more info to determine what is wrong. As WOLF said there could be issues with the bridge rectifier or the issues could be further up the chain - ie. shorted coil.

They are meant to be *under* the circuit board between the pcb and the metal base. Its very likely the original broken ones are still there.. someone who was too lazy to do it properly has just hacked in a new one

210552.jpg

_{Post edited by wiredoug: added image}

when you do it properly make sure you get the proper height ones if you put them back underneath and make them nice and level so they sit flat on the metal ( use heatsink compound).

One option is to top mount them in the same holes and fit up a new heatsink if you prefer. Some people hate the underside mount design. I find it works just fine in home use.

do you have the proper schematic? once you use the proper locations again you will probably be able to just remove or re-joint a lot of the wires. no EBD le here but ill try and find you something else the same to get a pic for you. i think Centaur2 will be the same.

i saw a manual here ebay.com link: itm

it looks a bit grubby but it will have schematics.

the reason previous owner put the BR's aside is probably the fact the are blade leg style. You need wire leg style.

if you go here http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com
and dig your way through the crappy frames menu to http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm#b-ps54a you can find kits for these boards - AS-2518-54 Power Supply Kit

only one way to learn jump in and have a go.

if you get over your head and decide to send the power board out to get repaired try http://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/barakandl

As wiredoug said^^, go for it, keep us posted, people will help. I've corresponded with barakandl on the side, he's been a ton of help for me.

Look on the schematic labled 'power supply', that's where you'll see the bridge lay-out. If you tested all coils and they're 3+ohm, they're probably ok.

yeah .. wrong page

they are groups of 4 separate diodes near the fuses.

Just order the kit from big daddy. Todd is a great guy and the kit is what you need except that you'll have to too mount the rectifiers that come with his kit. Make sure the pos lead is in the right spot. You can get 600v rectifiers from pinball life that will work great and are the same height as the originals so work well to use in the original configuration. Gotta say if really helps to have a Hakko 808 for this job. Takes less than an hour to clean and rebuild one of these, a bit longer perhaps if putting in new connectors.

watch them all ...
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=test+bridge+rectifier&sm=3

If the lines cross but don't have a dot at the intersection they don't meet on the board.

The 600 and 25 you are seeing is the resistors on the board (huge block ones)

usually the under playfield fuse is for the solenoids, not real sure what's going on there though.

EBD LE has 3 fuses under the pf. It looks like somebody moved the center fuse of the 3 fuse bank and added a single fuse holder in it's place? Perhaps the fuse clips are bad or tarnished from overheating. Somebody really hacked the shit out of this game. Placing the bridge rectifier on the transformer mounting plate was an actual Bally repair shown in the service manual back in the day. I learned this from an EBD that I got with a similar situation you have there. To save time, the op or tech would mount the rectifier to the transformer plate, heat sink compound should have been used, yours doesn't look that way. Another reason for this type of repair is the lugs on the rectifier, these wide lugs will not mount to the -54, you need the solder mount version. Also the bad rectifier should have been removed from the board. Here's a pic of what was in my EBD.

If I were you, I would try to find a working -54 or get the new repro A2 power supply from Marco for $99.

These pics are from the first EBD version,so the wire colors will different than the LE. The second pic is the same board where the high voltage diodes were changed without even removing the board from the game, what a thing of beauty

IMG_0900.JPG

IMG_0901.JPG

Wow, I think I saw those in a movie with Harrison Ford....lol.

This game was sold by TNT Am to the person I bought it from. Here's what I did to it a year later. I like this power supply because it has voltage status LED's that let you know your voltages are within proper range.

IMG_0149.JPG

Whoever did this should be hanged! He made it much harder than it had to be. He should have just removed the bad rectifier/s and soldered jumper wires to the remote mounted rectifier, instead of bypassing the them by removing wires and adding wires to the connector housings. My game was working as it was in the pics. My BR2 was still mounted and working. If you have GI lamps working, this means atleast BR1 is working. BR1 is your GI's and 12v for switched lamps and I believe the logic circuit. BR2 is coils and score displays from what I see on the schematic. It looks like there's another remote rectifier mounted on your game but was never hooked up? MAybe the hacker finally gave up before he set game on fire?

I have a Centaur 2 and if the wire colors is the same as EBD LE, I can send some pics to you to get you out of this mess. I also have the connector housings if you need any. The connectors for the -54 power supply are made by Amp and use .084 pins and sockets. You can buy all these from The Real Bob Roberts.

I forgot to mention, any wires going from the cab to backbox should be in a harness, notice each connector on the -54 is labeled, Playfield, backbox etc.

If you didn't order a rebuild kit yet, hold off, make sure the board itself doesn't have any burnt traces. Also I bough the rebiuld kit and never used it because there's so many things that need to be changed. I'm not spending your money for you, but I would go with the Marco board for $99. The rectifiers are top mounted with large heatsinks and you don't need heat transfer compound.
Correct, no wires come off the rectifiers. The board mounted rectifiers are soldered to traces on the board. It's possible that your BR2 is running? Did you check any of the test points on the board? What actually works on your game right now?

Glad to help when I can. I wrote that email down if you want to delete it from this thread. Have you ever re-pinned connectors and do you have the correct tools?

Nice! Since I v'e been in the hobby, everyone always puts down this style cab but I kinda like it. Supposedly these were left over Rapid fire cabs and they had so many left that they made them into games like EBDLE, Mr. and Mrs. Pacman, Cent II. I like how the scores look red and you don't see the junk from the displays in the back ground. Looked high tech back in the day. I always thought these cabs were shorter than the standard cab but know that I have one, it's actually taller.