Picked up a project Demo Man in complete working condition but needing a good tear down and from a Pinside guy’s friend (thanks to the Allentown thread) who had a nice one that needs cleaned up. It’s in good shape and the only thing he saw it needed was some optos for the VUK, flipper bats and rebuild, Williams logo speaker grills, and lots of cleaning (Perfect small project for me). After I threw in some VUK opto’s and resoldered a dry solder joint on the VUK’s coil it was 100% working just as he said. Another kind Pinsider sold me some Williams speaker logo grills which I also installed already. I’ve had it for a few weeks and finally had some time last night to tear it down. I took a bunch of pictures, and then more pictures. Now I see why everyone bitches about the reassembly because it’s involved. Things have to come apart and go together certain ways. It has the typical plastics that are broken and the right ramp will need some work for the diverter. I need to pick up a new car crash cover and back right wall plastic too. I've already removed the old dollar bill validator. I'll take any weight savings on this beast I can!

I’ve stripped the top side short of the posts and removed the few sections of mylar at the inlane ball drops, pop bumpers, behind the main ramp, and at the retinal scan. I normally wouldn’t bother but they mylar was lifting at some inserts and will never see the abuse like on route anyway. I’m doing a pop bumper rebuild, adding some GI lights to the back plastics where the flashers are with the translucent blue is as TNT has done as I like that look. I plan on also adding a GI light to the red retinal scan saucer plastic. I’ve done it for my Whirlwind as it looks nice lit up. I’ve already put on a set of chromed handles from Mike Chestnut. It will need a new DMD display as this one is outgassing and lost the last two vertical lines. Looks like a Color DMD will be coming for the TAF…

Other plans when complete are the Demolition Time and swear ROM’s, some touch ups on the back box and enjoy it. Really enjoy following so many others on here posting pics of their projects, restores, shop outs, etc. so hoping these find somebody else who enjoys this as much as I do theirs.

Bringing it home:
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Some parts torn down. I like the Porsche that looks like the car crash has taken its toll on the rear bumper cover because it was gone! New DM Olds 442 ready to be put in it's place. The eyeball had a smaller pinball in its place. The seller was nice enough to give me a new eyeball though. I tend to use the "tailgate" layout technique. One day I'll invest in a folding table... The truck doesn't get used much so it makes a great table.
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The back box, speaker grills and the current ROM's:
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The ramp needing repaired... Will be using a socket to bend some spare ramp entrances to "fix".
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Thanks. Prefer to replace the ramp, but since that likely won't happen, wanted to find a solution that looks sort of appropriate.

Tear down shots:
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Parts are tumbling now. Somewhat overkill, but I might as well do it right. I should pull the posts but they don't look bad and I really am not seeing the need. If I was swapping the playfield maybe.
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As it sits as of today:
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Next step is to remove the large posts and buff them out. Then cleaning with some Treasure Cove love. Hoping it brings back the shine as it should. The PF is in good shape.

Was hoping you’d find this thread. No apologies needed David! You told me it needed cleaning and some love. It should really come out nice. LAH looks and working great! Thank you again. Hammerhead1550 is a great guy to deal with to anyone looking to deal with him.

Thanks for the heads up. Maybe some mylar there too?

I'm very handy mechanically but woodworking I suck. I don't think I have the skills for it but will give it some research. Leaning towards the trailer method. Assuming by the left orbit drop your referring to the metal ramp center shot or are you meaning the left habitrail drop leading to left flipper? But agree the sealing is the right choice.

First wave of tumbling is done. Started the treasure cove on the playfield tonight.
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Gotcha! Thanks, I see what you mean. Yes, that should be a good fix with some wood filler epoxy. I was thinking the wear at the front ramp drop...

Made some progress yesterday. Wrapped up the rest of the Treasure Cove treatment. So far the product hasn't separated on me but will be trying some of other Meguiar's products I use on my cars in the future. Installed the new targets, pop bumpers with new light sockets, most of the lane guides, new flipper rebuilds, and flipper bats. Found that the center ramp wire gate and some other parts needed some tumbling while cleaning up the metal parts.

Limited edition White Monkey finished off the night...
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It was that or blue rubber which I've had bad luck with. But I like the superbands!

Yes B_R! Will be going with the latest and swear ROMs.

Some more parts came today. New car tunnel, slings, and diverter plunger came from Spare Parts Australia. Not too much progress. I ran out of 3” rubber rings so they should be in tomorrow along with new lane guides and a few other odds and ends. I did realize that I’m short the small plastic that goes below the right pop bumper and can’t find one for sale anywhere or missed it. Does anyone have one of these floating around or can easily scan it?
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Few more:
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Plastic I'm missing is circled in red:
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This is the plastic I need:
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Thanks B_R. Will reach out to him/her.

Had some time yesterday afternoon to tackle cleaning up the wireforms. Never a fun task but they came out ok.
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Some more progress but waiting for a few last plastics to show up to finish the job. Installed new CT bulbs. Also followed several people like B_R for the ACMAG lights using red and blue CT frosted premiums. Cool white frosted in GI and super's for inserts using Cyan for the freeze inserts. I also went with blue flasher domes and blue CT 906 super's. The signs are all CT premium frosteds. I added some CT Frosted blue 44’s in the back upper plastics where the flashers are but not sure I like how they look. Maybe need incandescents or remove them all together. It just shows off where the lights are rather than light up the blue transparencies in them. Should have some pics soon of the lighting.

I put in new clear plastics and got to put my rivet press to work between the two clear plastics and the one broken back right plastic. I'm using the Pin Restore kit with the Harbor Freight arbor press. So far I'm happy. I've used it for the Addams Family plastics and it did take getting used to from a traditional rivet tool but it does a nice job and makes quick work of the new rivets.

I also installed clear plastic protectors since I was able to source almost all new plastics and want to protect the new ones as best as possible.

I’m waiting to install the center plastic ramp and permanently attach the wire form ramps until the last few plastics show up.

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One of the old yellow plastics:
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Thanks! It never moves quick enough for me but waiting for parts overseas adds delays.

These are the lights I added. They're too obvious. Maybe will try some flex 44's facing up or down if incandescents don't work out.
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Shot showing the missing plastic.
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Lighting overall. So close...

Hard to tell in the picture but I did out in a flex red in for the red saucer wired to GI lighting.
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Thinking I'll change the 4 modes in the center to different colors.

Thanks for the compliment. Can you pull it off and scan it in? Should be pretty easy and being not in the normal line of sight, making it yourself with some lexan would be easy. That’s my plan but haven’t even found any scans. I may just try and create something as best as I can using some of the scans of the others and try and reproduce it.

The last of the plastics showed up Saturday so I had no excuse to not put more work into it. I got the new plastics on and fitted all the ramps after cleaning them one by and one and polishing all the ball gates and their brackets.

I took one of the spare ramp entrances and fitted it. It's been working great and blends in. It looks like the ramp entrance is actually a support to protect the ramp from the diverter.

I need to get better pictures but ran out of time. Game is complete short of spending some time with backbox lighting. It plays really well and fast. I had about 3 games on it and then started getting a two ball multiball when I shouldn't. Turned out that the ball 1 transmitter LED opto had broken and I don't have replacements short of robbing one off my RS board. So game is done awaiting a new LED.

Some poor pics:
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Thanks Ledge and appreciate you looking for the plastic. Even broken would be fine. I did some Cliffy posts here and there and went with some yellow behind the yellow stand up targets and threw some blue, silvers and red around just to take a look. Care to share your pictures? Here or PM is fine.

Awesome. Thank you very much!!!

This will be a long week waiting for ya! Sure, and I guess I breeze over some things as there wasn’t too much interest or any questions when I first started the thread.

I honestly got the idea from Todd from TNT’s pinball Tech Jason in this video and really liked the idea. Video:

Normally, these only light up when the flashers are active for them. Which is fine but seemed like a waste of that transparent blue area. I did similar to what they did. First I used about 6 or 8 of these (You can choose 555 (wedge) socket or anything else you prefer but I prefer bayonet over wedge:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=291

I then grabbed a drill bit (Thankfully have a CNC machinist friend that gave me a lifetime of drill bits!) and found one that is just a bit larger than the socket. Next measure being extremely careful where the plastics are going to cover (Don’t want to drill a hole you can see or not cover with the plastic!), compare to the back where the flashers (And their respective little boards) are mounted or any wiring (Don’t drill through any of the many wires ran back there!), and mark for the holes you want to make whilst making sure the lights will be hidden behind the plastic. Then I ran some wire from a GI bulb in the back left near the GM Ultralite for the car crash target and ran wire to wire.

As mentioned, they tend to be very obvious using the frosteds so I may try some incandescent to see if the light is more uniform, maybe some flex 44’s facing them away from the plastic (player) or if they still are too obvious, may just pull those bulbs altogether.

So make sure you look at Todd’s video and see if you don’t mind the fact that the bulbs stand out when behind there. It may be why Williams/Dennis Nordman never did either.