(Topic ID: 2695)

Champion Pub Issues

By absocountry2

13 years ago


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coil.JPG
Spot_magnify.JPG
Spot.JPG
bag_switch.JPG
bottom_of_speedbag.JPG

#1 13 years ago

My Champion Pub comes up with a "G10 ERROR". Anybody know what error that is?

#2 13 years ago

G10 is your Security chip. Could be bad. Did you change the game rom recently?

#3 13 years ago

I did not, but I have never really had this machine running 100%. When I got it it said there was a short in a line and I had a guy in England help me with it. He would get it working but it would only work for a short while then stop again with a different issue. I have let the machine sit for the past few years and now I want to try to get it going.

Do you know what I need to do for the G10 issue?

9 months later
#4 12 years ago

The G10 error was the security chip. Got a new one. There is a short in the game ruining logic and security PIC.

#5 12 years ago

Bet I know why you resolved this thread....

#6 12 years ago
Quoted from BriGuy5:

Bet I know why you resolved this thread....

You know it... I agree we should try to close these out. I learn from reading others as well.

1 month later
#7 12 years ago

This one is back open. My CPU was fried again. I think we found the problem this time. I will post more in a day when I get more time to explain.

#8 12 years ago

I always read posts on the initial page rather than sort through any particular sub title. That being said, I wonder if we could have not only a tech page but a tech answered and confirmed fixed category?

Whatever, I am on Vicodin today so my thoughts are probably quite random.

#9 12 years ago

Tom tried to explain what happened. Bummer. So, you sending that CPU to Coinop again?

#10 12 years ago

Yep, talked to Clive today. Got to get it repaired again. I am really happy about it though.

#11 12 years ago

OK, I feel I need to give the entire story here. The background story will help. As I wrote in my story, I bought this machine around 2000 from an USAF base in England with NGG for $60 delivered. They sold the pin because it was giving them problems they could not figure out.
I did not know much about fixing them and it was a couple years before I found a guy in Cambridge that said I could drop it off and he would take a look at it. I left it at his house for a while and he was able to get it working but it would only work for a short time before it started having small problems that would get worse over time. I have played the game less than 40 games since that time. I moved here in 2004 and have just left the pin sit there and look great. Sealclubber got me motivated to look at it again. We have it powered up and it started blowing bulbs as fast as we could change them. We did narrow it down to the CPU with problems.
I sent the board to Coin op Cauldron and there were several blown chips and a blown Security chip. Clive said it was a power spike that would cause that. I finally got everything back and installed. We installed the board with power only and shot wires from the board and all the power was looking OK so we hooked everything up. The pin powered up and started to play fine.
My son was playing while three of us were watching to see if anything failed. I had the glass off a few weeks and the PF was dusty so I was wiping it off with a wet baby wipe while he was playing. He got the ball up into the speed bag on the upper right and I saw some dust I wanted to wipe off so as soon as the ball cleared that area I was ready to wipe the area off. I see the pin get quiet and the ball leaves the speed bag so I reach across from the left side and as soon as the wipe reaches the fields I get shocked. That is when I realize the pin was dead.
We decided since the ball was up there when it failed we would start there. The pin has never had a hard fail like that. It usually starts with small issues. The bottom of that area is completely enclosed and there is no way to see without removing the small fist and bag assembly. When we got it out we saw the small fists are each operated by a coil for each fist. One of the coil wires looked like it was touching the speed bag floor but it looked like it may have been close. The floor is black anodized aluminum and we could not see any burn marks. We took it apart to look closer and there was a small white spot that we thought it was touching to send 70v back to the field.
After looking at the assembly we saw that the bag itself was the switch and the metal back is riveted on with metal rivets but that still did not leave a path for volts to fry anything. Then I noticed the foam pad behind the switch was not on the pin square. That made the foam wear quick and the bolt that holds the bag on had worn through the foam. When the bag was pushed back all the way with the ball it made contact with the back plate that had stray voltage and that allowed the 70v back into the 12v part of the switch circuit on the CPU.
We were sure that was the problem but could not see any arcing. That when my son hands me the lighted magnifying glass I bought him from Marco. I did not even think about using that but it made a tiny white spec obvious that is was electric arc. I recommend one of those (part ##77-ML986B) for $2.95 if you do not have one. They work great. I was glad he got it out for us to use. I was very excited to find what I believe has keep my CP sitting idle for over 10 years. Pictures to follow and it will all make sense.

#12 12 years ago

Here is a pic of the bottom of the speed bag field. You can see the wire near the left side from one coil wire. It did not look like it was touching but it was. You never see this unless it is removed. You can also see the metal rivets holding the switch on the back in the center. bottom_of_speedbag.JPGbottom_of_speedbag.JPG

#13 12 years ago

Here is a pic of the bag switch. You can see the foam was not on well and when the corner got worn away it allowed stray volts on the back bracket to shoot back through the bag mount bolts into the switch circuit.

bag_switch.JPGbag_switch.JPG

#14 12 years ago

I would at a minimum put some elect tape around the target back and then put the foam on the tape. Otherwise, when the foam tears again, your board will fry again. There has to be another way to isolate that circuit.

#15 12 years ago

This picture shows a small white spot we suspected was arcing but we could not tell. It is the tiny dot, not the bigger one next to the hole.

The second pic you can see what that small white dot looks like in the magnifing glass. We could even see spatter and smoke marks if you enlarge it.

Spot.JPGSpot.JPG Spot_magnify.JPGSpot_magnify.JPG

#16 12 years ago

I would at a minimum put some elect tape around the target back and then put the foam on the tape. Otherwise, when the foam tears again, your board will fry again. There has to be another way to isolate that circuit.

There should not be any volts there. The coil had one wind come off before they put the wrapper on. you can see it in this picture. the wire should have went around. I am going to change that coil because the power should not be getting the the main bracket. It was actually a perfect storm to get everything to line up and let that happen. A new coil with the wire not touching will solve it but I have new foam I will put in as well.

The big kicker is that the PF has no holes and there was no way to see this unless it was removed. The wires come into the area from the back in a small hole. When the PF is up the hole is down. No way we could have seen this spot.

coil.JPGcoil.JPG

6 months later
#17 11 years ago

Very interesting ... looks like I have had exactly the same problem with my CP. My coil also has wire out of the wrapping same as yours. Foam is a little worn on the bracket, and looks like voltage has smoked the CPU.

Have replaced the U20 and U23 chips and it is now saying G10 error so that may be smoked too. Everything else seems ok.

Good write up by the way! I'm sure other CP owners might have the same issue.

Dave

1 year later
#18 10 years ago

I find myself having the exact same problem. Taken care of the insulation at the speed bag & swapped the U20 [ULN2803A] and the G10 security chip. But without having the U23 swapped I still have 3 problems at hand:

1. Close coindoor for high voltage error
2. Boxer malfunction
3. Jump rope malfunction

Could that be caused by a broken U23? How to check U23 for errors?

Thanx for any help

#19 10 years ago

U23 checked... On all legs normal values (between .4 and .7) only leg 9 was .338 a little low but can't cause problems I guess. Leg 5 got 'short' on my multimeter but that seems to be grounded as I could see on the back of the board.
This IC seems to be oke.

What are other indicators to look for?

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