I assume the G relay is the one located above the "Knocker" coil on the schematic? (Hard to tell in your photo)

Is G located on the playfield or the lower relay board (with the score motor)

If it is, does the G relay energize with each Drop Target?
If so, does it stay energized for MOST of the score motor cycle?

If not, what happens if you hold G in with your finger? Do you get 500 points for each score motor cycle?

yep, that's where G is located:
CC_Grelay.jpg

CJ's questions are good observational points, since the schematic logic doesn't indicate a distinction among the drop targets.

Basically, hitting any of the eight drop targets should close their corresponding switch as they drop, and activate the G relay via a normally closed switch at score motor position 1C.

Then G should stay locked on via a switch that closes on its own switch stack until a switch opens at score motor position 2B.

Now, while G is active and has its switches closed, it causes the score motor to run. This in turn pulses close a switch at score motor position 1A five times. Each time the switch at 1A closes, if the target is still worth only 500 (and not 10x), then it goes through a closed switch on U, another switch that's closed on G to reach and activate the 100 pt relay, M. A switch closing on M then activates the Add 100 point stepper. Since the switch at 1A is pulsed five times, 500 points are scored.

However, there's nothing in the logic that would discriminate among the eight drop targets; they all feed G equally, with no intervening switches.

So, perhaps when the playfield dropped, the lower target banks have somehow gotten disrupted?

The score motor will only need to turn 1/3 of a full revolution. The bottom cam has groups of five points on it, and the switch at position 1A then gets its five pulses that way.

You can tell if G is staying locked on or not by just pressing the switch ladder stack down (the plastic part attached to the armature plate) and letting go. If it stays down while the score motor runs, it's locked on. If it releases as soon as you let go, it's not.

It could just be that the switch at score motor position 1A needs its contacts cleaned, or if G is not staying locked on, switches there. If the game sat for a long time without being played, any of the switches could have oxidized.

Check the switch on U then.

Those larger contacts like on the switch at 1A really need a good burnishing; a light cleaning sometimes isn't sufficient. Maybe playing it more allowed the wiping action to kick in and take care of the rest.

The metal bit is the 'lifter arm', and yeah, it can drag on that switch blade, due to the built up gunk. Cleaning off the gunk and putting just a little bit of SuperLube is good. Sometimes there's too much tension on the switch blade, but I would start with cleaning first.

cool, you got the first issue solved...

as far as the drop targets... it's always possible that what you pictured is causing the "stickiness", but being that pinball machines like attention, it probably wants you to disassemble the whole box...

it won't take too long to find out though... as df said, a LIGHT coat of superlube can work wonders there...

I guarantee it does!

yup, me too... poor drop target box, neglected for all these years... if i didn't know better, i'd say that white stuff on there was dried up salt from the tears of loneliness...

aw c'mon, it's not that bad to do...

yes, it sure is a buzz... i hope that thrill never wears off, personally...

Try some on yer dinner, tell us how it tastes

You can do it!

I was afraid to take my drop target assemblies apart but after many problems I had to do it and I'm pretty new to this. While you are in there you can replace the little spring that pulls the lever and maybe even the whole lift lever. Check too see if there is a wear mark on the top part of the lever were it hits the bar when resetting. If it worn too much it may cause resetting issues! If you do attempt it, do not take the whole box apart. Keep the screws on the side opposite where the levers slide through very loose and slide the levers off the bar two to one side and two to the other side. It makes it easier.

Good Luck,
PinballTom113

Here's a link I started when I rebuilt the drops on my nasty High hand.... same as Captain card, but replay, not add-a-ball. It's not too bad of a job, just time consuming. A ultrasonic cleaner makes it easy to clean the parts.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/why-you-dont-use-wd40-on-drop-targets

Old oil & dirt probably. If it happens again, clean, adjust, & maybe replace springs.

it is "grunge"...

even after i rebuilt a drop target bank entirely with new parts and adjusted switches endlessly to try to get the right tension, i still had a few "sticky" targets that required just a tad of lube in that spot...

will it last? depends... if "something else" is causing the issue, no, this is probably just a bandaid* (although the bandaid might work for a long time)... if everything has been cleaned (or replaced if necessary) and adjusted, and they are a bit sticky due to tension from the switch, then yes, i would imagine it will work for a good long time... dirtflipper has never steered me wrong...

* true of all things, i guess... if there is a "root cause" and you just treat the symptoms, eventually you'll have to address the root cause...

got my fingers crossed for you...

but really, they aren't that hard to do, so if you end up having to tear it completely apart, don't fear it...

the step by step instructions on pinwiki are very good, and once you've done the first one, they go by much faster... they just LOOK intimidating...

+1, it's not too hard at all. Even a green rookie such as myself did it with no problems.

I'm with the others, take some pic so you know where all the springs are. It is made real well and quite serviceable.
Unlike things of today!!