(Topic ID: 64705)
Linked Games
Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991
Topic Gallery
Simpsonville, SC
Quoted from BadBrad97:Look what you made me do last night.
My God, she's... filthy! How long did that tear down take?
Unknown City
Oh! Looks similar to my pf but worse =) Will be interesting to hear how you tackle the restoration of it. Ive not gotten that far yet but my plan is to repaint worn areas and clear coat it. Never done it before so like everything else on my project i need to research quite a lot before starting.
Speaking of my project, i have initiated contacts with a wood/carpenter place that will cut the parts for me if I make some templates with measures and so on. Will probably go for birch plywood of the best quality i can find, maybe that mdf faced ply if we can find it. So thats what i will be doing next, create templates and measure every aspect of the cabinet. Ill also do some drawings, probably by hand since I suck at cad software. Pictures and more info soon!
Quoted from thedefog:My God, she's... filthy! How long did that tear down take?
To get it to the point in the picture, 4 hours. I spend another 4 hours last night removing all the rollovers, pops, slings and flippers (and mylar). So 8 to get the top side bare.
I spent another hour trying to match the grey on the playfield. I am really close.
When you get ready to do the touch ups you need to use my tip that I have never seen anywhere except where I have posted. (although I am sure other people are using it)
I use one of the fine pens you use for caligraphy and ink. Thin "regular old craft paint" with water 50/50. You can do great detail and lettering if you can draw a little. It's actually fun for me.
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/speedball-calligraphy-lettering-set-119768
Nice! I will look into it, the bigger areas I'm planning to air brush but those small lines and textures need something more fitting. Good job on the PF teardown, guess mine took a couple of hours more. It's my first and I was very careful to prevent the f-up when reassembling. Still need to see if it was prevented though =)
Also the result of your pinbot paint is great! I like to draw so let's hope I can do it.
Sana'a
Quoted from MustangPaul:That way when you raise the pf you would miss the blades because they are indented in the sides of the cab.
Better yet, route out 1/8" and put real mirror tempered glass in the pocket (or even mirror Lexan).
Now that would be bad ass.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hope the cost comes in less then that pre-made one.
I think it will, especially when taking the shipping into account. Lets hope the result will be good too!
vid1900: Thats a cool idea! Dont think i will do it with this one but might make another cab and try it.
Not all of it but enough to build a new one =) And, as a side project, i will try to restore the old one too and see how it goes. Could be nice to learn some for future restorations.
It seems to be the cheaper and better way to build a new one.
I restore my cabinetts with help of a friend of mine, he is a auto painter and snds, fills and paints the cabinet. The material is around 200 EURO for a cab, so the money is good invested for a re-build !!
@BadBrad: Nice job !!!!
TomDK, yeah it's nice to have friends in different businesses. Luckily I have some who works with wood. It sure helps a lot since I don't have the right tools or skills. 200 Euro for a cab ain't expensive. I think mine will be about the same or slightly more but no big deal for a fresh coffin! (That sounded like an album name for some vampire band hehe, "the transylvanians- no big deal for a fresh coffin")
Quoted from TheRingMaster:TomDK, yeah it's nice to have friends in different businesses. Luckily I have some who works with wood. It sure helps a lot since I don't have the right tools or skills. 200 Euro for a cab ain't expensive. I think mine will be about the same or slightly more but no big deal for a fresh coffin! (That sounded like an album name for some vampire band hehe, "the transylvanians- no big deal for a fresh coffin")
Enough with the bad jokes.....get back to work. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:Enough with the bad jokes.....get back to work.
Ok 
Badbrad: guess you've done that before! Nice work. I'm not really looking forward to complete my PF but it needs to be done and I'm a little excited after all.
Quoted from BadBrad97:I may be ready for some clear coat tomorrow if my schedule works out. I see why some make the scans of the alleys with the half circles. Those things were a #^&%#$#!
After.jpg 361 KB
That looks sooooo nice and after the clear...WOW!!! How many coats?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Ok
Badbrad: guess you've done that before! Nice work. I'm not really looking forward to complete my PF but it needs to be done and I'm a little excited after all.
His pf gives ya something to shoot for doesn't it ringmaster. I hope yours turns out that nice.
Yeah, gives me a target to aim for! =)
While discussing playfields, I was going to try and flatten my inserts some time ago and used a heat gun to first remove one of the extra ball inserts. Then I aligned it using a piece of flat wood and a rubber mallet. I did not glue it in place because I was testing the technique. Anyway, I then noticed that the insert is a bit warped, like it has a higher mid point and is not flat. Its not at all like it looks melted or so but still has that higher center. My theory is that I might have used a too hot heat gun... even though I thought about being careful.. I did not think about the insert being flat or not before i heated it up. Any experience in this field among any of you?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Ok
Badbrad: guess you've done that before! Nice work. I'm not really looking forward to complete my PF but it needs to be done and I'm a little excited after all.
Thanks for the compliments. Yes. This will be my 4th playfield. The thing that helps is that the 2 Pinbots I did before were horrible and even though I screwed them up a few times, I was able to fix it. One I melted the clearcoat over one of the inserts and it turned yellow. I took an exacto knife cut out the clear above the insert and filled it with clear coat and you couldn't even tell. The trick is to not panic.
I usually put on 5-6 coats of clear. The trick is to start REALLY thin. Almost a dusting for the first 2 coats. waiting 20 minutes or until it is tacky between coats.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yeah, gives me a target to aim for! =)
While discussing playfields, I was going to try and flatten my inserts some time ago and used a heat gun to first remove one of the extra ball inserts. Then I aligned it using a piece of flat wood and a rubber mallet. I did not glue it in place because I was testing the technique. Anyway, I then noticed that the insert is a bit warped, like it has a higher mid point and is not flat. Its not at all like it looks melted or so but still has that higher center. My theory is that I might have used a too hot heat gun... even though I thought about being careful.. I did not think about the insert being flat or not before i heated it up. Any experience in this field among any of you?
You "may" have melted it if it wasn't warped before. You have two options. Try to find a replacement OR fix the one you have. You are going to lose the artwork on the insert either way.
If the high point isn't too bad you can sand it. Take it out. Lay the sand paper on a table and sand the insert on the table, sliding the insert. Go, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, Novus 2, Novus 1
You could try remeltling it. But it may change the shape.
Is it worse that this one? (This isn't the one I melted. The flash lamps did this one)
531206_10150759964082480_1993451052_n.jpg
Quoted from BadBrad97:The trick is to not panic. I usually put on 5-6 coats of clear. The trick is to start REALLY thin. Almost a dusting for the first 2 coats. waiting 20 minutes or until it is tacky between coats.
I wont panic, it's actually a good trick because panicking or being impatient is the cause of many things gone wrong. I need to read a bit more on the painting and clearing processes. What made me interested in doing it was when I watched a series of videos on youtube about it. Don't remember the poster but I remember it was something like the pindude project. Have the link written down and even saved the vids. It's some months into the future though I guess...
Concerning the insert, I will have a look at it again. It's not that bad and definitely not like in your pic hehe. I'll try to flatten it and will try one more with less but longer heat. If it gets warped too I don't know if I dare do the rest if they are not available to buy. Testing testing trial and error.
Update on the project, I clean parts every now and then and put them back together. Like all coil assemblies and more. This week end I will take the cabinet parts to the wood shop for reference and hopefully I'll get the new parts in like a week. Then there is painting, need to buy a paint gun and some good color. Looks like Christmas holiday will be fun
A question, what purpose do the "Roll pins" serve? I mean the ones that i found close to the flippers...
I cant think of any reason why they are there so it must be something smart!
http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/20-8716-5/large.jpg
To help position the flippers. Pop the pins about half way out, then tighten down the flippers using those pins as a guide to where the flippers rest. Once the flippers are tight, pound down the pins again.
Here is another question and update picture. Im replacing the flipper blade switches which is nice! Came out great when cleaned. Have not put the capacitors back yet because i might as well buy new ones since they are cheap.
Anyway, as can be seen in the picture of the old switches one of them has a second um.. "switch close gap" but it does not look that its used. My theory is that it is a different kind of switch that someone put there as replacement and that its not original. Maybe it supports some lane change feature or something in other games? Its wired the same as the other one and as far as I can tell it should not be a problem to replace it with a "single" one. Am I missing something or what you think?
Quoted from Linolium:To help position the flippers. Pop the pins about half way out, then tighten down the flippers using those pins as a guide to where the flippers rest. Once the flippers are tight, pound down the pins again.
Hehe.. thanks! Did not think of that but of course!
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Its wired the same as the other one and as far as I can tell it should not be a problem to replace it with a "single" one. Am I missing something or what you think?
Old switches:
I think that is supposed to be open and it should be for lane changing (moving the extra ball light to a different lane)
Hm.. ok.. Need to check if that works on my game =S Ive played her like 5 games to test but never thought of checking the extra ball except for in the lamp test *nooooob* =) so maybe there should be some more wires for that and two of those "double switches" we will see when i test it again. I mean might have been some hacking going on there. Thanks for the answer!
Quoted from BadBrad97:I think that is supposed to be open and it should be for lane changing (moving the extra ball light to a different lane)
It only looks like 2 wires are coming off that switch, and the blue wire is tied to both of the leafs on that closed switch. I don't think it's actually doing anything here. It could just be a leftover switch the factory had, or some hackjob by an op if the switch broke while on location.
Quoted from Linolium:It only looks like 2 wires are coming off that switch, and the blue wire is tied to both of the leafs on that closed switch. I don't think it's actually doing anything here. It could just be a leftover switch the factory had, or some hackjob by an op if the switch broke while on location.
I thought so too but i will look into how the lane change works on this game and figure it out. If it's a left over switch from the factory it would be cool to keep it but since we don't know I won't bother =) thanks for fast answers!
Quoted from Linolium:To help position the flippers. Pop the pins about half way out, then tighten down the flippers using those pins as a guide to where the flippers rest. Once the flippers are tight, pound down the pins again.
I wouldn't do that if I were you, I did it that way one time and one time only on my Space Shuttle. When I pushed them up I splintered the pf around the holes upward. To adjust the flippers just insert a snug fitting nail from the top or bottom and use it as the stop. For me it was lesson learned the hard way.
Will do that after the pf is fixed! The colors and coating that is, dont think it was damaged by the pins luckily but anyway they would work fine as reference points when aligning the flippers, either by eye or putting something down through them. Thanks for pointing out he risk of popping them out btw.
Ill get back with any updates asap!
Badbrad, I'm gonna scan my PF but it will not be done anytime soon I'm afraid. But I'll do it later. Anyway can't you do some templates or something to make them more straight if that's the problem?
And the rubbers... I've been looking for them too. Seems as they get old small pieces falls off from them and they get sticky in the center. Maybe it's possible to cut new ones from any similar rubber but don't know.
TheRingMaster, Thanks. I was able to get it worked out last night I think. I was able to get the circles cleaned up pretty well with a compass. Not perfect, but it won't drive me crazy either. I am back on track now. I put three coats of clear on it Monday, sanded it flat Tuesday, touched up again last night and I am filling low places tonight, then I am going to the Pinball auction in Winston Salem, NC Friday and Saturday. Should be able to get some more clear on it Sunday. Sand Monday and Tuesday.... then just let it sit... and wait.... maybe bust it out a few times and buff it.
I have new cabinet decals coming Monday and I am going to be doing MY cabinet over Christmas break. I hope it looks better under my decals than yours.
I am pulling my High Speed playfield out this week and starting on that one next... while I wait...
Hej Brad! Your going faster than me and will win the battle =) good to hear you sorted out the PF! I'm excited to see the final result! I'm longing for Saturday when I will hand over the old cab parts to the wood shop. I will be picky on the details =)
And the rubbers, someone suggested car shock absorbing rubbers in another thread here. I will have a look and see if there's anything that could fit. Otherwise I'll clean the old ones and hope they last for a while.
And the switches... Thanks for checking! Will be interesting to test the game and see if it works. I've ordered some parts from Marco lately and it looks to be going smooth. Have seen some complaints about international shipping from them but so far everything works very good!
Both you guys are making great progress. I can only sit and dream of doing that stuff to my games...no work shop to do it in or the time to do it.
@ MustangPaul, Thanks! Time is the "worst" factor... i feel a bit frustrated too right now because of working a lot and then there are everything else that needs to be taken care of. So not as much time to work on the game as I would wish but at least it makes me take small and safe steps, research can be done in the evenings at least
Anyway, think i mentioned that i ordered some parts from marco a few days ago. And I was prepared for waiting like one week or two. But got a call from the postman today and he told me he had a parcel for me. I placed the order on tuesday and got the parts early in the morning friday. Thats amazing! The stuff got shipped half around the world and still they arrived earlier than many national orders. So, thumbs up for marco!
A picture of some part porn
If it was AFM i was restoring i would've called it the big box-o-parts... but hey!
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
