The ramps are thicker than the originals yes, but i can not find any other indications they are pinball inc ramps. However, they probably are since sold by marco and thicker. Good to have new ones!
The ramps are thicker than the originals yes, but i can not find any other indications they are pinball inc ramps. However, they probably are since sold by marco and thicker. Good to have new ones!
Quoted from TheRingMaster:The ramps are thicker than the originals yes, but i can not find any other indications they are pinball inc ramps. However, they probably are since sold by marco and thicker. Good to have new ones!
Yeah - You got the good stuff! I live near Pinball Inc. and when new ramps are coming out, James seeks out a local with a game to test them on. The bad part is, the game might be down for a few weeks, the good part is, you get a free set of ramps. Mine were the first and free set, but it wasn't my game at the time. Still, I don't have to buy them!
You are Lucky! =)
Its very Nice that people put so much effort into things like new ramps. What would we do without them? Feels a bit too messy and expensive to try to make your own ramps so it's very good that it's beeing done by the enthusiastic pros!
Hi again! Its been a while since any updates, lots of things going on so i have not had so much spare time.
Anyways, here are some pics of the parts for the new cab. Will be interesting to see if it fits but it looks promising! A few grades and things but it will be easy to sand and file to perfection.
Note: the top left pic is distorted because of the camera lens, its much straighter than that
This was the most fun thing yet Adding a new warning label for the backglass light board. What made it extra nice was I had the label printed at the local print shop. Thanks to "Inkochnito" who made this one as a pdf!
There are "official" repros available to buy at different places too but they were out of stock when i tried so I thought it would be nice to test the method of making your own. Now I now that if something is missing its possible to get a neat result with some image editing software and a decent print shop. Otherwise I think its important to support our pinball guys and gals who do repros on a professional level.
Anyway, here are the pics:
Quoted from TheRingMaster:This was the most fun thing yet Adding a new warning label for the backglass light board. What made it extra nice was I had the label printed at the local print shop. Thanks to "Inkochnito" who made this one as a pdf!
caution1.jpg 55 KB
caution2.jpg 71 KB
Wierd. I seemed to enjoy that as well. Mine was missing before my restore.
Wasnt you talking about HS being your next restoration after BOP too? I guess we have some things in common
I also test printed the FBI warning label and some other things like "inspected by", install X balls and so on. I have even made (well not finished quite yet) my own label that tells the machine number. That too will be nice to add later on.
One thing I have not done yet is the blue/white serial number sticker that can be found inside the cab... will take some time but i will try to make one.
Yes. That was me. I actually got the HS restored and ended up selling it a couple months ago. It turned out pretty nice. My cabinet was pretty nice, so it was mostly a playfield restore.
Is this the sticker you are trying to repro? I was able to clean this picture up, straighten it up in Photoshop, and use it. I just can't find the final result here at work.
Yep thats the one! I will try to scan mine since the cabinet is in parts and as you did fix it in photoshop a bit. A nice thing would be to make a template from it so that its possible to add different numbers to it when needed.
This week-end I will test assemble the new cab and make sure the siderails and everything fit. I think it might be slightly off (flipper button hole and hole for side rail bolt in the front), like a couple of millimeters but shouldnt be a big deal. All other holes seem to have been spot on.
After that I will prep the parts, sanding and such and then I will paint them before putting the beauty back together. One thing I have not decided yet though is if I should paint the interior completely black or leave the bottom bare wood (with some clear on it). Some say its better to keep it unpainted because it will be brighter inside if you work on things or open the coin door. And I also think that dust will make it look less appealing if its all black... we will see!
If it were me, and the bottom was already clean bare wood, I would leave it bare wood with some clear. I think it makes it look so much better. I painted mine because it was so badly discolored and like you said, black shows every speck of dirt that falls in there. If you look at the HEP restores they are almost all bare wood and it makes the machine look like it is brand new.
Yes I think it would be looking great with bare wood. It allready has the coating on it so it would mean more sanding too. By the way we decided to make the bottom hard wood instead of the original "masonit" style that are original and that sucked up moisture and bent like crazy on some machines. It will add some weight but will probably benefit in other areas such as stability and durability. I'll post pictures documenting the testing of the parts when ive messed around a bit.
Same time, same channel next week! =)
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yep thats the one! I will try to scan mine since the cabinet is in parts and as you did fix it in photoshop a bit. A nice thing would be to make a template from it so that its possible to add different numbers to it when needed.
This week-end I will test assemble the new cab and make sure the siderails and everything fit. I think it might be slightly off (flipper button hole and hole for side rail bolt in the front), like a couple of millimeters but shouldnt be a big deal. All other holes seem to have been spot on.
After that I will prep the parts, sanding and such and then I will paint them before putting the beauty back together. One thing I have not decided yet though is if I should paint the interior completely black or leave the bottom bare wood (with some clear on it). Some say its better to keep it unpainted because it will be brighter inside if you work on things or open the coin door. And I also think that dust will make it look less appealing if its all black... we will see!
Take a pic of your label, send it to Peter "Inkochnito" and he will send back a clean PDF with your info. Then send him a couple beers.
Send your High Speed info, he'll even do the PCB mini labels too in the same PDF.
[attachment=1565862,]
That's great! Never thought about those mini labels but I need them as well. Thank you for suggesting!
Here we go! I have started to assemble the new cabinet for testing purposes... to see if it fits or if it needs some adjustments. It came out pretty nice and only some minor things like the flipper button holes seem to be off by just a couple of mm's.
The plan is to make sure everything comes together smoothly and then its time for painting before gluing the thing back together. Interesting indeed! Sorry for the workshop looking like a warzone btw... some of my buddies decided they wanted to make more space so they tore down a storage room we had in the corner but they forgot to clean up what was inside
Anyway, here are the pictures:
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Here we go! I have started to assemble the new cabinet for testing purposes... to see if it fits or if it needs some adjustments. It came out pretty nice and only some minor things like the flipper button holes seem to be off by just a couple of mm's.
The plan is to make sure everything comes together smoothly and then its time for painting before gluing the thing back together. Interesting indeed! Sorry for the workshop looking like a warzone btw... some of my buddies decided they wanted to make more space so they tore down a storage room we had in the corner but they forgot to clean up what was inside
Anyway, here are the pictures:cab1.jpg 185 KB
cab2.jpg 230 KB
Oh that looks soooo nice. I can just smell that new wood. Wouldn't it be better to paint it once it's glued together?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Soon this project is not a restoration anymore but rather a pinball building project with some parts from my BOP
That's what I've been thinking as your project progresses.
Yeah it's a kinda big difference from the old cabinet, both looks and smell =) I think it's easier to paint it before assembling, at least the inside. One thing to remember though could be to mask the areas where the glue will go so it's glue on bare wood. Other than it's easier to paint the inside I do t know if there are any advantages to paint before putting it back together.
Well when you use the big clamps to clamp it together you may mar the outside surface and where the clamps attach, the glue will be squeezed out where you can't wipe it off so you will have to sand and repaint. Just a thought.
Yeah thats true... It might be better to do it when its assembled, that will also save some time masking the corners and other places where the glue shall attach.
Here are some more pics of the project:
Door fits like a glove in the new cab:
door.jpg
Painted "flaps" for the ramps:
rampthing.jpg
Federal sticker for the backbox plate:
fb.jpg
(Edit: I did clear coat the plate after all so thanks for pointing out! I used a 2 part clear that came in a spray can. Felt it would do the trick with this small board instead of messing with the paint gun and compressor. Im happy with the result but its possible that using the paint gun would've given a slightly smoother surface. Maybe next time! You need to test don't you? If you do this, remember to sand or file the holes or anywhere else where the plate needs to have ground. Like for where the ground braid attach to it. Never thought i would continuity test this piece of metal but now I've done it.)
New leg bolt brackets tested:
legbracket.jpg
More to come!
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yeah thats true... It might be better to do it when its assembled, that will also save some time masking the corners and other places where the glue shall attach.
Here are some more pics of the project:
Door fits like a glove in the new cab:Painted "flaps" for the ramps:
Federal sticker for the backbox plate:
New leg bolt brackets tested:
More to come!
door.jpg 59 KB
rampthing.jpg 27 KB
fb.jpg 43 KB
legbracket.jpg 35 KB
Man that is looking great. A new coin door makes the game look so fresh I see your going with the HD corner braces, good call but 2 suggestions, 1st, don't forget the wood wedges in the corners behind the braces and 2nd, drill out those 6 wimpy #6 screw holes for #12's, I did it to mine. I have a suggestion for the coin door opening, round over the edges of the opening, inside and outside, buy doing that there is less likelyhood of the wood splintering when installing or removing the door and the paint has a nice rounded edge to stick to not a sharp edge. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.
Question, how is the bottom board attached?
Thanks! =)
The coin door looks like new so im happy with the restoration i did on it. I may replace the orange plastics too but had none when i assembled it. I bought some so I have them now.
The leg corner braces, I will not forget the wood wedges (but who knows...) I did not just have them when I took the picture . And thats a great tip to drill the holes. It will be a lot more stable!
Never thought of the edges behind the coin door yet.. i will follow your suggestion because as you say its easy to have the wood splinter. Might do it at some more places like the "handles" in the back too since you grab the game there and lift it. Or wait... maybe thats just the vent? well.. some places could benefit from smoother edges.
The wooden bottom board is an improved style made of hard wood instead of the softer thing that was used originally. It is attached the same way the original was, slits made in all the side boards (front, back and sides) and the bottom "just" slides in there. When the sides are in place there is no place for it to go. I dont know if the original was even glued in there or if it just sat there like that. Anyway it is kinda tricky to put the pieces together because they all lock each other in. So you need to assemble the back and the sides, then slide the bottom in and then slide the front on with the sides apart. When the front is in place together with the bottom you push the sides together to lock it up. This will require at least two persons when its getting glued together otherwise it has the potential of ending up in a mess
Have a look at this picture:
bottom.jpg
I must point out that I did not make this cab myself but a friend of mine did. He did an awesome job so many thanks to you Patrik!
Quoted from TheRingMaster:The wooden bottom board is an improved style made of hard wood instead of the softer thing that was used originally. It is attached the same way the original was, slits made in all the side boards (front, back and sides) and the bottom "just" slides in there. When the sides are in place there is no place for it to go. I dont know if the original was even glued in there or if it just sat there like that. Anyway it is kinda tricky to put the pieces together because they all lock each other in. So you need to assemble the back and the sides, then slide the bottom in and then slide the front on with the sides apart. When the front is in place together with the bottom you push the sides together to lock it up. This will require at least two persons when its getting glued together otherwise it has the potential of ending up in a mess
I see, very nice. When you dry assembled it did you check for squareness?
Quoted from calvin12:The paint on the ball gate is not gong to hold up.
Thats something im worried about... we will see what happens. Otherwise i might try to get my hands on some factory made ones!
@MustangPaul, I have not measured it for super straight angles if thats what you mean, but it looks good so far. I might measure it later to see if its really straight to a T.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:super straight angles
Yes, I'm sure you know how to measure for that but just checking because you have alot going on with your project.
It has escalated to pretty much indeed! But I apreciate every advice or suggestion I can have. It's easy to stare yourself blind when working alone on something.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Thats something im worried about... we will see what happens. Otherwise i might try to get my hands on some factory made ones!
Just like spinners... it will chip off. But being round, it will take even more 'tearing' hits. Paint the cover if you want, but the bar should stay natural
Yes I will give it a try and see how fast it tears.. the bar, do you mean the bar that holds the black gate? I have not planned to paint it. Thanks for all the small tips you guys are giving!
Some pictures of the progress with the bare wood. This part was a bit tricky to create but I think it will work. Hard thing is to know if the whole thing will fit together with the playfield and everything but time will tell! I transfered the special "bolt metals" for the backbox securing screws. Never knew these existed, or at least not how they looked, until I took my cabinet apart. You dont see these often.
Hm, not sure exactly what it is but something like that. More layers than the original and should be high quality stuff! =)
Think it's about 11-13 layers. This weekend I hope to prep the surfaces and glue it together. Must check with the PF first though, I think I should mount it unpopulated in the game to make really sure the hinges etc fit. Also the two pieces that join at an angle in the back of the PF must align properly. You can see one of them in the pics above. It goes with another one looking the same but reversed in the back to "seal" off so there's no hole down into the cab. I'm not 100 percent about it but if I remember right it's how it works. Hard to explain but will post pictures =) also the plastic trim at the far top of the PF/ cab where the glass slides in needs testing. Don't want it to leave a gap between the backbox and glass lol!
Sorry - have not read all.
My Bride is like new with new printed PF and Cab.
I have changed the Eyes switches as same as Mouth switch.
Now all works perfect. But don't forget the nut under the eye plate. Your switch must set before!
A little adjust to the middle - no problems any more.
Quoted from TAB:Sorry - have not read all.
My Bride is like new with new printed PF and Cab.
Are you saying you got a new playfield? If so, please PM me the source. I need a PF.
You have PM.
And for all another info.
There will be some days(years) a repro PF from perfectplayfields.com
...and i have made a black version for the cabinet.
Looks great Meanwhile there are many black machines in Europe
Yeah it's pretty cool with the black cabinet! The switches for the eyes, are those prone to fail and it's better to replace them with the same style as the mouth switch? I have not digged into the head yet so I don't know what it looks like. And the PF, I would like a PM too! =) I'm interested in knowing the options to paint it myself.
To work on the eyes or mouth, spin the head using the self test to the proper position and turn off the machine. Then remove the face to gain access to the switches and adjust or replace as necessary. Put the plate back on without any screws and test the switches by listening for the click when the ball goes in. Remove, bend and test again until it works. I don't know why, but it took me a few minutes to figure this out...
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