(Topic ID: 40268)

Black Knight help needed! Playfield and back glass lights

By grendle308

11 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by grendle308
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#1 11 years ago

Just got my LE Black Knight a few months ago, fixed a bad flipper, a bad pop bumper, a few minor things here and there, but am now stumped -

The playfield, coin door, and back glass lights will not turn on. The high score, game over, and tilt lights all flash throughout playing on the back glass, the playfield insert lights for gameplay work fine, turn off and on, but the general ambience lights (under plastics, behind back glass, behind coin door) will not turn on.

Tried running diagnostics, resetting the game, nothing works and nothing strange comes up.

The game still plays great, all features work. I am thinking a bad fuse maybe? I just don't know where in the machine to look.

Any help is much appreciated!

#2 11 years ago

Is there a sticker under the power supply in the backbox that shows the fuse layout?

#3 11 years ago

There, is thanks, didn't see it before. Looks like what I'm talking about is General Illumination? The fuses look good, but I can try to replace them. Otherwise I did a quick search and found it may be a burnt connector pin or cracked header on the board.

Anyone have any idea what those are?

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from grendle308:

Looks like what I'm talking about is General Illumination?

Yes.

Lift one end of the fuse out of the clip and check it with your meter. The "look" of the fuse means nothing.

Quoted from grendle308:

Otherwise I did a quick search and found it may be a burnt connector pin or cracked header on the board.

Common for the GI (General Illumination) connectors to be burnt. Williams way overloaded those connectors.

Post a pic for further advice.

#5 11 years ago

Also, replace the fuse with the value and type on the sticker - do not assume that the fuse in the holder is the correct value (90% chance it's wrong).

#6 11 years ago

Thanks, you are a a serious help.

I found a GI connector on the bottom right and gave it a wiggle, the lights worked! But then it started getting really hot, I let it go, it fell back in place - the lights went out. I can wiggle it back in place and the lights will go on, but it definitely overheats and starts melting the plastic connector around it.

I tried removing it from the board and it is stuck. Even pliers won't do it, I'm afraid it may have melted to the pin? Any advice on removing it, cleaning it up, and putting it back on?

#7 11 years ago

You will probably switch to LED lighting, so that will greatly reduce the amperage draw of the lamps.

If you want to stick with incandescent, using #47 bulbs instead of #44 will drop your amperage too.

No matter what, it's time to replace those connectors.

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

#8 11 years ago

Chances are you're going to have to pull that board and reflow the pins, or replace the pins. And most likely replace the connector. I've done it to almost every WMS solid state pin I've owned.

#9 11 years ago

Yes, it looks that way. I went ahead and ordered some stuff from that site, thanks.

The only real issue now is how the hell to get the melted connector off.

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from grendle308:

Yes, it looks that way. I went ahead and ordered some stuff from that site, thanks.
The only real issue now is how the hell to get the melted connector off.

Cut the wires and re do the whole connector. Depending on how bad it is, you may have to replace the header pins as well. As other Suggested replace with LED's to prevent this from happening again.. Otherwise you will have to do it again in a couple of years.

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from grendle308:

The only real issue now is how the hell to get the melted connector off.

The melted pin connector on the board; just gently pry up the white nylon base, once it's off the board a few mm, cut it into sections with your diags. If it is really burnt, sometimes it just lifts off easily, leaving the pins behind. Then remove pins with soldering iron and needle nose pliers.

The wire connector (female) connector, just label the wires and cut them off as close to the connector as possible.

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The melted pin connector on the board; just gently pry up the white nylon base, once it's off the board a few mm, cut it into sections with your diags. If it is really burnt, sometimes it just lifts off easily, leaving the pins behind. Then remove pins with soldering iron and needle nose pliers.

The wire connector (female) connector, just label the wires and cut them off as close to the connector as possible.

With the amount of times "connector replacement" comes up on this forum maybe that should be your next step by step guide.

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

With the amount of times "connector replacement" comes up on this forum maybe that should be your next step by step guide.

If you think the group needs it, I can do that one next.

Here is some connector and IC socket replacement stuff too:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

With the amount of times "connector replacement" comes up on this forum maybe that should be your next step by step guide.

Quoted from vid1900:

If you think the group needs it, I can do that one next.

This would be much appreciated.

#15 11 years ago

Great, I'll give it all a go, snip away! Doesn't look too hard, just careful to not damage the board. Thanks everyone, this site is the best.

#16 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you think the group needs it, I can do that one next.

Here is some connector and IC socket replacement stuff too:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

It just seems to come up fairly often and seems like something everyone has to learn eventually. Also one of those repairs that seems very daunting until you do it yourself and realize its not really a big deal at all.

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you think the group needs it, I can do that one next.
Here is some connector and IC socket replacement stuff too:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

That'd be awesome, shoot, if you want mine for an example, feel free

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from grendle308:

That'd be awesome, shoot, if you want mine for an example, feel free

Post a pic of your burnt connector.

#19 11 years ago

Post a pic of your burnt connector.

0218131134a.jpg0218131134a.jpg

It's the one on the far right.

#20 11 years ago

Yep, she's burnt.

But that is normal on that game.

A new one will burn too in a few years unless you switch to #47 or LED bulbs.

PM me if you really need me to replace that connector.

#21 11 years ago

Yep, got LEDs on the way, I suppose it was just a matter of time.

I think I can handle the new connector, I have parts on the way. Tell me if my plan is crazy: snip the wires off, clip into the plastic and try to separate the board pin from the connector (it is stuck really bad), clean the pins (potentially reflow them), rewire a new connector, plug it back in? Am I missing anything?

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