My, I'm also will be more happy, if I can repair the original one... I go and try to trace it, I hope, it's a visible damage...

Hm, funny.
I follow the cable from the A9 panel J2 17. That is grey one, with white stripes. Follow, follow, move it, check it, but nothing problem with it. But it did not goes to the lamp, it goes to the lamp matrix. I attach a picture, it's the 13th from the right side...
Now I follow from the lamp, that is grey with brown stripes on it...
I try to understand the schemetics, but that is chinese for me...

Oh, and there is (C) between that two cable...

Hm, even more i cannot understand...

I follow the cable from the lamp (grey, with brown stripes), and it goes to the A9 J2 too.
You can see on my previous pictures, I put the jump wire on the bottom one, and this is the 4th from the bottom. There is (C) between the two end, so now i don't know, what to do. And all connectors, soldering looks original...

Yes, this is correct.

First, I try to follow the schematics, there shows the nr.17 to the bottom of the connector (what is originally the 20th...

Now this is different, I try to give ground for it...
Meanwhile i resoldered the lamp matrix's connector, it always has a contact problem...

So, i give ground to the good 17th, and the lamp works.
Hm, follow your steps, what is scr, and where can i find it? And how can I test?

Hi! I haven't time to repair until today, sometimes I need to work...
So, tomorrow will I continue. So, my dumb questions: what is SCR? Because I don't know, I have no idea what I should check...

And the other thing... My feature lamp has always contact problems, so I try to re-solder the pins, as you recommend. But, if I add solder, the old one drops it down. Looks like, they are incompatible, or something... I plan to de-solder all the pins, clean the board, and the hole on it, and re-solder the pins with my solder. Is it the good way to repair it?

solder.jpg

So, I investigate what is SCR, and I check all of them with DMM.
I've got funny results. Almost all gives value arond 0.725, but:
The Q9 does nothing
The Q6 gives 1.4,but just for a moment
And the Q3 gives 0.210 .

If I change polarity, then all of them shows value between 1.3-2.0, but just for one moment, then drops back to 1 (is I not touch nothing, my DMM also shows 1). Except the Q3, that gives 0.150 permanently.

scr.jpg

Wow, I looks like dumb, I wait your answer like Christmas.
Then, I order a new one, but the others? Are they ok?

Means, I need to change the Q9 only?

And the others? What also no good? Should I change he others?

Hm, ok, then I will buy one, and replace it.
The schematics said, it should be bad?

Thanks a lot, now I order them, and replace this one.

On the schematics, where I should see it?

Wow, thanks! You are a treasure here.

I ask the part on the Hungarian forum, and they said me this:

4A 400V Igt: 0.2mA MCR106-6G (ONS) RoHS TO-225AA (TO-126) SENSITIVE

Is it will be good for me? (One piece is about 40c... )
And should I change the two other one (Q3,Q6), or leave them, if everything is working?

Ok, Master

But please, tell me, how can I thank you this lot help... Seriously, you should open an on-line pinball repair service...

Hm, good idea...
I will try to find an old-style solder, maybe it will better. ..

I thing, I will go crazy.

Now I assemble the machine, and a few thing is not working on the feature board. The soldering is ok, everything looks good.
The O nr.3, and the O nr.8 is not working. As I see, these two lamps belong to my other two wrong thyristors. But last time they are ok. How can they broken down like this? So, I think, I need to change them, too...
And, the last problem (now. ), is the X nr.4. I attach a picture, it is so dim... At the lamp test it does nothing, but while I play, it can light, but roughly half brighter, then the others... What can be the problem there? dim.jpg

Hm, and the other two "O" problem can be because the wrong SCRs?

If I read the schematics well, then those two belongs to these lamps... How can they broke down like this... :S Whatever, they not gives back good values, better to change.
And if this dimmed X means wrong connection somewhere... I try to follow it's way...

So, at the weekend I cannot buy thyristor, so I clean the coin door, and the front legs.
I think, worth.

before.jpg leg4.jpg

Anythings possible.....im travelling and have no access to schematics....

Wow, all my respect to You!
I change the thyristors, that shows wrong values, and all of the lamps comes to live. Now, only one X is not working on the feature board, but I follow your instructions, and found the last wrong thyristor, on the A5 board. Unfortunately, it's not the same type, then the last ones, so I need to buy this type too. SCR 2N5060, as I see, it's a common model.

Almost 100%.

1.jpg 2.jpg

No, no, I change 3one on the A9 board, that is on the photo. These ones are the same thyristors, type MCR106-3. I bought a few spare, but this one is on the A5, and type 2N5060.

No problem.
I will hunt this type here in Hungary, or some equivalent. Then I reach the 100% mechanical and electrical condition.

All glory is yours, thanks guys!
Monday i buy the thylistors, and fix it.
Can I buy the next one,to bring back to life... ?

I've nothing to do today, so I continue the cleaning.
Transformer, and power board.
A few picture from before, and after. Looks like, it has got some beer, or Coke in the 90's.
I cannot remove it with cleaner, water with tootbrush... Now clean, but I only can scratch it down, so I let there, I don't want to harm the panel.
Important: clean, and not smells.

before1.jpg before2.jpg

And after the cleaning:

after1.jpg after2.jpg

I mounted back, but before I clean the whole cabinet. I clean the cables, and wash the wooden parts.
There is a few spot on it, but at least, clean, and smells like furniture, not stable...

cabinet.jpg

Today I do the final step, clean and repair the backbox. The bottom is broken, and it was dirty... I check, what I need for repair, and clean it. Soon the pinball will be ready... One thirystor, the bottom of the box and the headglass, aaaaand over.

before1.jpg vandal.jpg after1.jpg

I change the last two wrong thyristor, now my lamps are perfect.
The backbox is ready, too
I use metal corners, and wood glue, what will be transparent afrter drying.
Of course, from outside you cannot look nothing repair...

Now, only my backglass is needed, and the pinball is ready.

hold.jpg glue1.jpg glue2.jpg

So, I need to say: Ready.

Working, playable, sunshine happiness.
I'll get a playfield sticker, and then no need to touch, just for repair.

Thanks, Robertmee, Shock_me, and Pinsiders!

Bonus question: what do you think, what I use for cabinet black paint repair?
First picture, when half part repaired, the second when I'm ready...

top1.jpg top2.jpg

One point for you.

Hi!

Next step: Battery holder.

There is the "before" picture, with the parts (holder, old battery with the diode, and the rechargeable batteries),

first.jpg

and the "after" picture, withe the soldered holder, and the spare diode, if I need it in the future...

sec.jpg

Have a nice day:

So, now looks like the pin is ready( of course, it never can be. ), so the older brothers arrived for repair.
I will post a lot question at the EM forum, as I see...

brothers.jpg