After 6 months of looking for a Fathom for <$4000 (shipped), one finally popped in the Bay Area a few weeks ago about 30 minutes from home. Somehow, I was first on the scene. A guy needed to move a few pins to get some cash, and I was the lucky recipient of the Fathom. Note to self: ALWAYS wait to buy from people who truly "need" to sell. Wait for "the guy" that needs "cash" or "space" and will sell at a reasonable price.

The previous owner put a Halifax PF (2004), and CPR BG (2011) + Plastics (2009) on there and got it clear coated. PF is very clean and sharp. No wear nowhere.

BG: 8
PF: 9- (It's a "bronze" level repro in terms of the inserts lining up, otherwise it's gorgeous, and has 0 wear spots.)
Cabinet: 5 (will need repaint for sure at some point)
Boards: 7 (MPU and Lamp Board need $2 in SCRs/etc. replaced, battery is already off-board)
Plastics: 9
Displays: 8 (strong and sharp -- but -- one digit out)

I don't even have to vacuum the cabinet... That's a first.

The Halifax PF is a hair narrower than the more modern CPR fathom PFs so you had to use shorter hex screws, haha, what a PITA...

From what I can tell everything on the playfield was tumbled and polished. There's not much to do there but make some playability adjustments.

Under the playfield, there are a few parts to sand blast and plate if desired:
* drop target assemblies and such
* transformer platform, etc

My short-term goal is to get Fathom into a really solid player state in 40 hours, and leave it until 2016 to redo the cabinet, etc -- after I have a few high end restores under my belt.

6 MAGIC KEYS TO A WELL-TUNED UP FATHOM

1. outlanes NEVER drain (re-position the ball guides with new holes for the hex screw if necessary)
2. inlanes can nudge-save (1/5) of the time or better. (So you feel like you have a "chance") -- (adjust rubber and location of post until it's perfect, use a small washer under base of post for increased stability)
3. all inline drops are flush with the playfield
4. make sure all rollover stars can go flush with the playfield when a ball rolls over it (carve the plastic of the STAR if needed)
5. make sure the upper flipper is laying as flat as possible
6. make sure the orbit exit is flush from wire guide to rubber (re-position the ball guides with new holes for the hex screw if necessary)

-mof

OPEN QUESTIONS
1) Is this cabinet worth saving, or do I have a cabinet made at a local shop?

2) What's involved to get the drop targets to stay up? 4x doesn't always stay up (We are working on it here...) (FIXED?!)
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-bally-fathom-drop-target-doesnt-always-stay-up

3) Can divets be knocked out of side rails?

4) There are cut caps in many areas. 3 pops. (more to come) -- wondering why someone would do this, and what the possible advantages are?

LAMP/SWITCH ERRORS (2/16 remain)

- LAMPS OUT (0/7 open) (Alltek Lamp Driver board fixed these up*)
1. green insert: "1"* (temporarily solved)
2. left inlane S insert (when lit) insert* (temporarily solved)
3. right inlane S when lit insert* (temporarily solved)
4-6. dead lamps (replaced/solved)
7. backbox: game over: (solved)

- DROP TARGETS (2/3 open)
1. Sometimes the second green target (4x) drops after being set "up"
2. Sometimes the second blue target drops when the 2nd green target drops "down" (in solenoid test)
3. can't start multiball during multiball with top saucer, using left blue targets - (solved!)

- SWITCHES (0/5 open) -- all solved !
1. top Left pop doesn't fire (temporarily solved w/Alltek MPU)
2. left Return lane (temporarily solved w/Alltek MPU)
3. blue saucer switch sticks (fixed by removing and re-installing switch) -- which means -- sometimes Cave lock doesn't raise targets and eject next ball
4. pops flash on and off when hit
5. sometimes game goes into 2x mode

(SOLVED)
1) (solved) How can we get multiball to return a second ball?
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-bally-fathom-ball-wont-release

COMPLETED (30)
Hour 1: Swap out all fuses to actually match the specification. Level/Pitch PF to 6.5'
Hour 2: Troubleshoot game for errors (found 10+)
Hour 3: Swap out CPU and Lamp Driver Board with Allteks to reduce errors (eliminated roughly 5)
Hour 4: Adjust Cave Saucer to function properly
Hour 5: Adjust 3rd flipper to seat properly in its place
Hour 6: Vacuum out cabinet (nothing found!)
Hour 7: Play and review errors (nitpick!)
Hour 8: Replace 3 dead bulbs, Set up for free balls at 900,000 and 1,800,000.
Hour 9: Replace all the stainless steel leg bolts with black ones
Hour 10: Replace 3-prong plug
Hour 11: Reseated the rail screw under the green bank
Hour 12: Found cause of green DT's not resetting
Hour 13: Reflowed solenoid expander board and installed new diode
Hour 14: Ran shooter parts through ultrasonic, and aligned shooter rod with new shooter. Tumbled 4 apron brackets.
Hours 15-17: Installed new flipper button switches
Hours 18-19: Cleaned up lockdown bar
Hour 20: Polished the stainless steel glass channel bracket
Hour 21: De-rusted old legs, cleaned em up, and removed leg levelers. Re-installed new leg levelers, and legs and leveled game.
Hours 22-24: De-rusted and polished lockdown bar reciever
Hour 25: Install new inlane plastics, and re-drill one hole for great flow
Hour 26: Moved right outlane ball guide, and plastic
Hour 27: friend fixed bad PIA chip that was causing the pop to not fire
Hour 28: Adjust ball guide on orbit, and left and right inlane guides, installed correct screws for apron to PF brackets
Hour 29: remove bulbs from backbox down to 10, replace apron, adjust trough switches
Hour 30: solved the cave bug, and the 2x scoring bug - by adjusting the coin door switches.

TO DO (10 hours or so...)
* check all test points for proper readings
* clean up the coin door
* clean and Wax the cabinet
* clean coin door switch, clean and install power switch
* clean backbox and lamp board, tumble door brackets
* clean + polish speaker panel trim
* polish stainless steel backglass trim
* line up scoreboard with BG

INVESTED: $235
* shooter rod: $35?
* new solenoid relay board: $35?
* new apron: $140?
* Cliffy guides: $20?
* 3-prong plug: $5

SHOPPING LIST: $185
* stencils (will need pinball pimp someday)

RESEARCH
* search for Fathom shooter gauge (complete! Merf's pins)

SOMEDAY
* repair old Lamp Driver board that doesn't allow all insert lamps to function
* replace side rails

Here's the lot of "before" pics.

BODY (no sir that blue touch up, does not match at all...! )
201405-FA-body6.jpg201405-FA-body5.jpg201405-FA-body4.jpg201405-FA-body3.jpg201405-FA-body2.jpg201405-FA-body1.jpg
201405-FA-rear-edge.jpg201405-FA-rusty-metal-coin-protector.jpg

COIN DOOR
201405-FA-coin2.jpg201405-FA-coin-door.jpg

HEAD
201405-FA-head-left.jpg201405-FA-head.jpg201405-FA-head-top.jpg

PICS PICS + MORE PICS

LOCKDOWN + APRON + PLUNGER + PLUG
201405-FA-lockdown-wrong-gauge.jpg
201405-FA-plunger.jpg
201405-FA-original-plug-ya-think.jpg

INSIDE
201405-FA-inside-cab.jpg201405-FA-inside2.jpg

PLAYFIELD
201405-FA-praise-the-lord.jpg201405-FA-playefield1.jpg201405-FA-no-wear-abc.jpg201405-FA-new-spinner.jpg201405-FA-new-pops.jpg201405-FA-new-plastics2.jpg201405-FA-new-plastics.jpg201405-FA-playefield1.jpg201405-FA-shes-special.jpg201405-FA-standup-view.jpg201405-FA-sunlight.jpg201405-FA-wicked-woman.jpg

Hour 1: Fuses replaced
Hour 2: Found about 10+ errors (see post #2)
Hour 3: Swap out CPU and Lamp Driver Board with Allteks to reduce errors (eliminated roughly 5)
-mof

Hour 4: Adjust Cave Saucer eject lever to function properly

The little plastic nub that pokes through was dragging. I simply loosened the entire assembly, and then re-attached it. It was rather stubborn, and didn't seem to want to change its position, but somehow it was willing to move over 1/8" and give itself a little room. Works great now every time.

-mof

Hour 5: Adjust 3rd flipper to seat properly in its place

This was REALLY tricky. The problem is the tip was hanging out WAYYY too far and making the gameplay really suffer. Take a look.

MASSIVE GAP = BAD BAD BAD
201406-FA-massive-gap.jpg

First thing I did was what any Neanderthal would do -- start bending things that shouldn't be bent. I tried bending the guard rail down away from the flipper. I knew this was the last thing I should try. After a few minutes of getting nowhere I tried removing the flipper to see how well the bushing was centered in the hole.

It was centered perfectly. Also, I learned that on BALLY there is no room to move the assembly around nicely like on Williams (shame shame)

I decided to build a shim. I wanted to use a Cliffy, but instead I went full McGyver, and grabbed OF COURSE the electrical tape, and wound me up a little shim. I used the flipper as a lever to expose one side of the flipper bushing, and inserted the shim. I then tucked it in nicely with a tiny screw driver.
201406-FA-making-a-shim.jpg
201406-FA-shim-installed.jpg
201406-FA-use-flipper-as-lever.jpg

I noticed someone had scooped away the wood a little
201406-FA-rubbed-against-rail.jpg

Almost perfect. Game plays MUCH better now.
201406-FA-sits-flat-now.jpg

-mof

Thank you. I really appreciate when other people post about their resto's and shop jobs too.

I'm using my Samsung S3 on automatic settings. Only thing I do is try to manage the light by hand, and NEVER use the flash for all the sexy shots... Sometimes I'll use two light sources to mix it up, one warm shop light (incandescent) and one pen-LED light, to cast two shadows and get a little warm and cool light going.

-mof

What can't you do?
That's epic. Of course, you have to be $275 in gas away from me R/T...
=(
-mof

Hour 6: Vacuum out cabinet (nothing found!)
Hour 7: Play and review game for errors (nitpick!)
Hour 8: Replace 3 dead bulbs, Set up for free balls at 900,000 and 1,800,000.
Hour 9: Experimented with green targets (plastic off) to get more data on why target sometimes won't "stay up"
Working on ideas here:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-bally-fathom-drop-target-doesnt-always-stay-up
-mof

Hour 9: continued... Replaced all the stainless steel leg bolts with black ones, and added nylon washers
(Yeah, I know these aren't the prettiest legs, but a task complete is a task complete!)

-mof

201407-FA-black-bolts.jpg

Hour10: installed new 3-prong plug
Safety first!
-mof

before
201407-Fathom-dead-3-prong2.jpg201407-Fathom-dead-3-prong.jpg
after
201407-Fathom-new-3-prong.jpg

Hour 11: Reseated the rail screw under the green bank
Hour 12: Found cause of green DT's not resetting
Hour 13: Reflowed solenoid expander board and installed new diode

Game has only 2/16 lamp/switch issues left. It almost plays correctly now!
(knock on wood)
-mof

Played for 2 hours last night. Put in at least 40 games. Played great.
I wasn't able to release a single multi-ball.
This is one tough game, I love it!
Beat the game (3-ball, 900K) one time -- roughly 1.1mil.
-mof

Hour 14: Ran shooter parts through ultrasonic, and aligned shooter rod with new shooter. Looks boss!
-mof

201407-FA-apple2.jpg201407-FA-apple1.jpg

Installed new flipper button switches last night. I spent about 2 hours building up the switches that matched the originals exactly.

Right now I'm not getting the lane change but the funny thing is I actually prefer it. It essentially re-enables the skill shot by killing the ABC lane change.

-mof

After and Before... // Error: Image 267576 not found //20140801_000147.jpg// Error: Image 267574 not found //20140731_183349.jpg20140731_182501.jpg20140731_182452.jpg

Don't walk -- RUN and make sure all your flipper button switches are new or like-new.
-mof

Next up for me was the horrendous lockdown bar...

* rust
* flaking plating
* old beer seal

I scraped the seal out with a credit card.
I used a drill with a wire wheel to kick away all the loose flaking plating.
I soaked the bar in my evapo-rust tube.
Scrubbed it with light steel wool.
Used a 400-grit ball on the top side to just shine it up a little.
I decided to try out the polisher on it (while leaving all the heavy scratches in it).

Overall it came out "ok" -- certainly better than before. I'll add a gasket tomorrow.

BEFORE
201408-FA-lockdown-bar4.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar3.jpg

AFTER201408-FA-lockdown-bar-de-rusted5.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar-de-rusted4.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar-de-rusted3.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar-de-rusted2.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar-de-rusted1.jpg

BEFORE
201408-FA-lockdown-bar2.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar1.jpg

AFTER
201408-FA-lockdown-bar-polished2.jpg201408-FA-lockdown-bar-polished1.jpg

Next up was the stainless steel bracket that supports the plastic channel for the playfield glass.

It was really bugging me, since you see this while playing. It should reflect as much light and color as possible.

This was all bench buffer...

-mof

BEFORE
201408-FA-back-glass-mount-rusty.jpg
AFTER
201408-FA-more-reflections-less-rust.jpg
BEFORE (notice the lack of reflections)
201408-FA-back-glass-mount-rusty2.jpg
AFTER
201408-FA-more-reflections.jpg

All 4 sides:
201408-FA-rear-cab-glass-bar4.jpg201408-FA-rear-cab-glass-bar3.jpg201408-FA-rear-cab-glass-bar2.jpg201408-FA-rear-cab-glass-bar1.jpg

A quick shot of what the almighty bench buffer can do for a screw head:
-mof

201408-buffing-wheel1.jpg

Thanks fellas,

I'm looking to keep building up my skills to where I can give it the full HE restore in a year or so down the line, including a new cab. For now, I just want to make it play great and clean up all the rust and give it a good polish.

-mof

Next up: The bane of every 30+ year-old pin's existence -- the lockdown bar receiver. This one was crap. Now it's pure sexy.

Here's the after deck, (all the befores are the same, no need to drudge a pic up down here)...

The Bally assembly has three main components:

1. handle
2. lockdown bar receiver
3. bracket

The bracket was nearly spotless, the handle was rusty, and the receiver was rusty + crappy as expected.

No more.

Here's what I did:

(remove bar)
1. gently clean bar with Scotch Brite Type S super fine and water (scrape any goo off with a plastic razor / goo gone)
2. dip bar in evapo-rust tube (that you use for rusty legs) for 1 hour
3. remove, and gently re-clean with same Scotch Brite, using the evapo-rust clinging to the component. Rinse. Dry
4. Polish gently on the bench grinder/buffer for 10-15 minutes. Repeat. Wipe clean.
5. Run all screws through the ultrasonic for 5 minutes. Rinse. Dry. Buff all 7 screws for 1 minute each

I'm still wondering how to deal with the various colors in the metal, but it's 85% better than where we started...

The joy of unlocking and locking up this game, is really off the charts, it sounds like a perfectly chromed knight in shining armor unsheathing his never-before-used sword, and all those sounds that go with it. It feels and sounds great, while it looks "pretty good" since it's not a freshly-nickel-plated job. I'll get around to that in a year or so. I just wanted it "very respectable" so I can have it in the best shape I can get it into using my own tools.

-mof

201408-FA-LDBR-wish-you-could-hear-t-go-in2.jpg201408-FA-LDBR-wish-you-could-hear-t-go-in.jpg201408-FA-LDBR-w-handle.jpg201408-FA-LDBR-shiny-screws.jpg201408-FA-LDBR-handle2.jpg201408-FA-LDBR-handle.jpg201408-FA-LDBR-BAR-bracket.jpg

Ball 1 stopped ejecting to start a game.
Great Pinsiders helped me learn about Bally here:
-mof

Solved!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-bally-fathom-wont-eject-ball-1

I've been sick of how this game was set up by the previous owner in several spots.
The right inlane guide wasn't close to being in the right spot.
Now that I've drilled 100+ holes in another playfield swap, (and re-packed a few holes that I didn't like), I swiftly fixed my Fathom and now it plays like butter.

The result? I put up a big score.

Problem: previous restorer drilled a hole that was not in the right spot, and installed the flipper inlane guide in such a way that the ball drained far too often, when it wouldn't zip through the outlane to the flipper.

Solution: fill and drill.

1. Drip 2 drops of super glue into old hole, and allow 5 minutes to dry.
2. Install a bamboo tooth pick (fat middle section only) and lift it 1/64" inch and clip it. Then pack it back into the hole.
3. Drip a 3rd drop of super glue onto the hole (add some wood dust if you have it nearby -- optional)
4. Allow packed hole to dry.
5. Line up inlane guide (keeping one hole screwed in tight) perfectly, and discover new hole location. Be sure to line your single eye ball up correctly. Try this from a few view points, and verify that you agree from 3 distinct locations that you are choosing the same spot. Stab it with your poker tool.
6. Drill and reposition your inlane guide.
7. Enjoy.

Before:
201501-FA-wrong-hole.jpg

After: (fill)
201501-FA-superglue-bamboo.jpg

After: (drill)
201501-FA-eyeball-repair.jpg

Last night, I decided to move the entire drop assembly into a new position to see if the green 4x would not drop as often after being raised. More on that here:
-mof
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-bally-fathom-drop-target-doesnt-always-stay-up

I then played for a few hours and took stock in how the game is playing. I found about 11 issues to work on...

When I have time to post some pics, I'd like to try and learn more about:

1. trough switch doesn't always catch the ball (sometimes the ball sneaks past it)
2. sometimes the ball goes into the right outlane and then doesn't make the "jump" back into the inlane, and the ball dies. I'm wondering what is the BEST and WORST thing to "move" to try and get the alignment best.

-mof

Thanks, the game when set up right is mean as hell. I'll go with meanest Bally ever for now. Is it meaner than Black Hole? I'm not sure.
-mof

So, after repositioning the right flipper inlane guide, I got things to play better. After putting in a few hours on the game last night, I realized it wasn't good enough. The ball at high, medium, and low speeds should jump the channel EVERY time no matter what. Now it does. What did I change? I drastically moved the location of the ball guide. The problem with that is now I need to consider moving the post to enable more saves when a ball comes down the inlane. I'm going to wait on that since that's MUCH lower priority for me, than making sure outlane balls are always making it safely to the flippers.

I've learned something REALLY important from this lesson.

Be WARY of buying a pin that has a reproduction PF in it. You REALLY need to inspect the HECK out of it. There are people out there who are not going to get it right the first time (to put it kindly). Otherwise, be prepared to do a LOT of adjustments once you receive your pin.

So, the LEFT guides were working great, and I thought it would be ideal to mimic the location and angle of it's parts. There's no way to do that since the RIGHT assembly is simply mounted 1/8" or so higher than the left side. I won't go into detail, but the left and right are NOT symmetrical, so my FIX was to unscrew the screw for the ball guide, and let it take its natural shape and location. This was 1/4" away from the hole created. I used a tool to hold it in place, while I experimented with 20 balls from various heights. THEY ALL jumped the channel fine. I had never seen this before.

So I screwed it into this spot and left it. Some day, I'll have to consider what to do with the nudge-post. It's not in an ideal position, and with its narrow shaft -- if I move it it will be obvious. Thus the caution.

Here are the pics as reference, enjoy.
-mof

LEFT (GOOD)
201506_FA-ball-guide-left-alignment2.jpg
201506_FA-ball-guide-left1.jpg201506_FA-ball-guide-left2.jpg

RIGHT (DIDN'T MAKE THE JUMP)
201506_FA-ball-guide-right-alignment2.jpg201506_FA-ball-guide-right1.jpg201506_FA-ball-guide-right2.jpg

FIX
201506_FA-ball-guide-right-natural-curve1.jpg201506_FA-ball-guide-right-locked-in.jpg

Next thing to figure out is why does the ball SOMETIMES bounce past the trough switch and then the game is stuck.
It's on a fast ball down the middle, about a 1/50 game occurrence.
-mof

201506_FA-trough-wire.jpg

"The more you restore, the higher the score..." -mof

Just put up 2.9mil (after about 20 games of <100K), and the voice said something I've never heard before...

"Revenge"

RAD.

I learned two things about Fathom tonight:

1. upper flipper CAN sweep the 1-2-3 and it sets off the "free ball" alarm
2. with a really strong upper flipper shot you can power knock down TWO blue targets -- I had no idea.

Such a great game...

201506_FA-2939290.jpg

Game is playing better then ever, put up another 2.6mil.

I've learned quite a bit about tuning up an early SS Bally in the last week.

As I tuned more and more, I'll update the "magic keys to a well-tuned Fathom" up top.

-mof

Now I need to figure out how to better align the orbit exit. Right now, the ball dink donks out without any smooth flow. The reason is obvious.

-mof

201507_FA-orbit-exit1.jpg201507_FA-orbit-exit3.jpg

Fixed.

Now the ball in/out is VERY smooth. Depending on the velocity of the ball, the ball will now land on the left flipper, between the flippers or on the right flipper tip. Makes it very challenging to try and nudge the slow rolls coming out of the orbit exit.

-mof

DRILL (no need to fill)
201507_FA-orbit-exit-new-holes.jpg
LINED UP JUST RIGHT
201507_FA-orbit-exit-line-it-up.jpg
201507_FA-orbit-exit-2.jpg

Thanks, and agreed. You literally need to get 100+ things right to get it to play great.

The previous owner of this pin has left me so many little "gotchyas" I can't even begin to list them all.

Tonight, I got to figure out why a few machine screw posts were loose. They weren't long enough. Seriously?

Thank goodness my previous pinball order involved stocking up on posts.

WRONG (on left)
RIGHT (on right -- of course)

201507_FA-oh-the-pain.jpg

And the pinball gods looked favorably on my little upgrades tonight with another high score:

3,669,980

"The more you restore, the higher the score..."
-mof

201507_FA-3669980.jpg

Notes on my 4x blue drop target issue (will address in the future) -- jotting them down here...

Situations:
1. game reset: 4x green (sometimes) drops early
2. trap raise up: 4x green good always
3. solenoid test: 4x green MAKES 4x blue fall -- WHY ???
4. during a game, both 4x green and blue rise and fall independently now

-mof