I cant see from the angle but it appears your drop target switches aren't working. There should be lights that are all lit and go out as each of the targets drop. After the last target drops doc says "come back with me" then the "back" light will light under the vertical upkick wireform ramp. If the game isnt seeing the drop targets fall then the sequence wont happen. Make sure they are connected and the switches are clean.

If you are still having problems, maybe another video from above the playfield would be more helpful.

I just bought one of these last week from a seller here on Pinside. I bought it only for the collectibility of the movie memorabilia, but I'm finding that this game is FREAKIN' HARD! I rarely score above 2 million and my high score to date is only 5 mil.

Looks better than my bttf I just bought a week ago. Paid 400 for mine. I have a burnt board but it does turn on and play a game.

Those old bayonets suck. Try to twist them. If the leads move chances are they are not making a good connection. I did that to a few of mine and the bulbs started working again.

I'd suggest checking the fuses and replacing those. I had similar issue with my T2 and there was a burnt fuse. I couldn't tell by looking at it, but when I replaced, everything worked fine.

If everything else works, then 90% of the time, it's a blown fuse causing the lights to go out.

I noticed that the red light in front of your cab is on. Go through your diagnostic menu, that light means something is wrong with the game. Could be related to the drop target issue you were having, could be the lights, not entirely sure but if you run a search on DE cabs from this era you'll find a thread about it. Good luck and congrats! Have fun with it!

If replacing the fuse doesn't work, check your GI connector in the back box. When I got my Baywatch it had the same lighting issues, and it was because the connector burnt/melted. Had to replace the board header pins and connector.

Interesting! I just got my Back to the Future and was wondering what the red and green lights were on the front of the cab.

let me see what my number is.

mine was made AUG 29th 1990 SN 10 30390

Your GI issues could be many. DE games of this era have a terrible GI design, so much so the came out with a repair bullitin from the factory, which is a good idea to be done. There are multiple failure points to check on the power supply, the transformer, the popcorn board, the z-connectors, the fuse clips and the traces on the power supply, plus all male connectors are suspect. It will be likely more than one of these things... You will need LEDs after you repair, it really is the only way to make this reliable..

If your GI is not working, check for burnt connectors in the back box and replace as necessary. www.greatplainselectronics.com has the parts you will need.

As for your drop target issues, use the switch test and check every single switch on the playfield to help identify problem areas so you know where and what to fix.

Most people think that, so you're not alone there. Honestly I thought mine were broken until I came across the thread discussing their purpose. Now I'm glad they're not on! 

I found the thread about them, he's the link: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/57768-13-bttf-what-purpose-these

Copied out of the DE Simpsons manual:
In attract mode:

Red light ON - indicates a non critical switch (ie Outlane switch) is either 
stuck on or has not been closed for 50 games

Red light FLASHING - indicates a critical switch (ie Drop Target switch) is 
either stuck or has not been closed for 50 games

Green light ON - indicates 1500 games (operator adjustable E Ad 32) have 
been played and playfield cleaning is recommended

Green light FLASHING - indicates 2250 games (1.5x E Ad 32) have been played 
and playfield cleaning is strongly recommended

The red light will go off automatically after the bad switch(s) have been 
repaired. To turn the green light off, you must enter Game Cleaned Ad 09 and 
change its setting from NO to YES by depressing the start button. Doing so 
will reset the clean game counter to 0

Here's mine:

Build date: August 14, 1990
Serial number: 010 29947
Cabinet number: 009963

http://www.ipsnd.net/Faq.aspx
#2 explains some info about the numbers

I just finished a full LED conversion on my Back to the Future. It makes the game pop much more. I also added the 1.21 Gigawatt sticker I found on eBay, as well as the license plate for the topper.

IMG_6855.JPG

IMG_6858.JPG

I used "warm light" LED bulbs in the backglass (but used super bright for the open car door area to make it really pop). All other lights were super bright LED.

Here is the "before" from a couple weeks ago. I bought the super bright from a great guy at: http://www.rockcustompinball.com/

And the warm LED from an awesome eBay seller: ebay.com link: QTY 100 Frosted Pinball LEDs Mix Match Base and Colors 44 47 and 555

1922171_10151868772202396_688284837_n (1).jpg

Man, that LED conversion looks really good. How long did it take you to fully convert? I just got my full LED kit from Marco, but I'm not sure when I'm going to install them. Life's been a bit busy for me lately.

Makes sense that it was flashing red then. Wish I could help you on the part number, but I'm sure if you run a google search something will turn up. For example, I know Stern offers coils that replace our DE 22-900 with 090-5020-20. I'm sure someone offers that switch under a different number. Good luck!

It took a couple hours to install. There are several tricky spots that it's hard to get the bulbs in and I ended up having to unscrew various parts just to get to the bulb. The only thing I can't figure out is how I'm going to change the Delorean bulbs. They seem impossible to get to.

You gotta pull the ramp and some plastics then remove the cover. Then it's a lot of fun on your fingers in there also.

The Delorean bulbs are pretty to get to, just tilt the playfield and you'll be able to reach in the back of it. I was able to change them without really seeing what I was doing.

I guess I need to look closer. It seemed that I'd have to pull the entire playfield out of the machine and unhook all the wiring to even get to them.

Since I was cleaning the entire playfield I decided to do led. Taking the main ramp off I had to de sodder the flashers. The flasher near the right sling has a plug. The wiring for the main ramp runs right to left. You may be able to take the ramp and hang it over the right side and get to the screws in the back where the delorean plastic is.

1394732933684.jpg

20140227_143709.jpg

Does the ramp have to be removed to get at the Delorean plate?

That looks like fun. Did you guys use any bulb remover tools or just your fingers? I bought that scissor looking bulb removal/installation tool since I figured it would aid in the process.

You can probably cheat by tilting the playfield enough so that the delorean plate clears the ramp.

Possibly not. If u have one of thise angle phillips screw drivers. Easiest possible other way would be raise playfield and just feel for it. There is 2 flashers on each side plus the delorean lights.

I have had blisters from doing bulbs to led conversions. Bayonets are the worst because sometimes they are just to long and the bottom has to be filed a bit.

I was shocked at how many flashers were in this game. They put them everywhere! When I redid mine with CoinTakers, it threw me for a loop. It took time and patience but it was not very complicated. I've found that taking shortcuts always screwed me in the long run. I could post a vid of mine with the CT's if you guys want to see it.

I just used a needle nose pliers (machine powered off by the way) on the really hard to remove 555 LED posts. Most though came out very easy for me. There were only a handful that were impossible to unscrew by hand.

And yes, there are flashers everywhere. I haven't converted though to LED yet. There are two different sizes. Does anyone know the technical names for them? I need to order them soon. The smaller of the two flashers has the same bayonet size as the normal bulbs, but the ones on the playfield have a larger diameter.

I can email a list of all of the bulbs, colors used, location, and sizes if they like. Just send me a pm with your email.

All I have seen is wedge and bayonet flashers. Blinkers are the snaller bayonet. That I am aware of. Had a few of those in the backbox