I know there is another BOP restoration thread. I'm following it as well. I have never done a "Full Restoration". God Bless the people who can/do. That doesn't mean that I like beat up games. I usually buy routed games and fix and repair them to play and look great. They are not usually "Collector's Quality", but people who come over always comment on how nice they are.

Anywhooo, in the middle of January, I started taking my Diamond Plated Bride of Pinbot apart. I purchased it from a friend who bought it pretty much like the way I found it. Fade on the cabinet but not real bad. playfield has separation around the inserts like they all do but no substantial wear. Also has a yellow heart and more of the wheel inserts are Yellow than most games.

It took me two sessions to break it down to the point i usually restore to - removing most parts from the topside and cleaning and waxing the playfield.

Here is the playfield on the rotisserie:
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I take lots of pictures from lots of angles to get a feeling for how to put it back together. This is a VERY SMALL sample:
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I'll take note of screw sizes as well:
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Which cables plug in where:
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More Posts References:
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More as I assemble it to show...

This is my "Re-Assembly Setup". My old Toshiba Laptop has all of my pictures loaded on it and I usually just go backwards through them.

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I did some touchups on the playfield but I failed to document that so we're jumping directly to mechanical repairs.

The Flippers got a rebuild and this was the first time I've done flippers with these spark-supression capacitors.

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I was advised that I should use LEDs for the wheel insert lights, but I decided that I want to try colored incandescents instead. I bought some LEDs but I'm trying these first. Also, you'll notice that there a 3 yellow rows. My playfield has the yellow heart as well as less colors in the wheel.
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Pop bumpers are a pain. You need to clean below them to do a proper shop job but the lights that go through the middle of the playfield really make it difficult. I leave remnants of the old in place and then replace them as I go.
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The metal parts on these break a lot on Williams games. I replace the Williams part with Stern and it'll live forever (because of the curved support).
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Finally back together again.
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It's important to remember that as you put this stuff back together that you need to test switches and make sure the gaps are open just a little on the pops and in the case of this type of flipper, closed but will open when the flipper is at full stroke.

Now to flip over the playfield and start putting this puppy back together...

The good thing is, it's not real difficult to change them at any time since the 555 socket is not involved with this part of the pop bumper. Just make sure that the curved part of the metal yoke is facing the same way as the spring. When the spring is compressed it's about the same height as the metal yoke curve (if that makes any sense).

-Al-

I'd also like to add that I called my wife one day in January and I asked her to take the pop bumpers apart for me on this game. I explained about where to cut the 555 socket lights and when I got home it was all done. She is an awesome woman!

Actually a cool Idea - maybe something that could be added to 2.0 as well. Incidentally, I have been slowly putting posts back on the game and I'll grab a pic or two tonight to show the progress. I decided against Blue posts and went with all clear. I have another mod idea as well (more when I implement).

Posts and rubber is where I'm working on now. Just taking my time.
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Topside of the Pops - and as I said before I'm going with clear posts. I'm not big on LEDs but I'm trying some in the pops.
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Mini Playfield had black rubber - Ick! Now it's right:
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And one of my favorite chemicals - Nevr-Dull: Makes the metal posts shine!
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I'm interested in how well they work. I have been putting SuperBands on the flippers of all of my games (except a few). I have Blue ones for this game.

Dutch Pinball says things are happening - I'll have to accelerate my restore! Looks like this project needs to be pushed to the top!

Just a little status update...

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Overall, a good weekend. I got a lot done.

I'm putting Great Lakes Modular post lights/flashers in. They will flash when the slingshots fire and be lit the rest of the time. I had to remove two GI lights below the slings to make it work. I still have to wire them in, but the wires are going through the playfield. Incidentally, I put a piece of shrink tubing around the light socket so that if the insulation on the wires were to open, there would still be a layer of protection from a short.
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The Other completed sling...
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Various parts re-assembled:
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Overall shot of what I've completed:
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Yes, I will as soon as I do it! The wires are just hanging for now, but I actually have some questions as to where to get power and ground. I know which wire is the trigger for the flasher on the slingshot coil (it's the one with one wire).

I'll take some pics when it's done.

I sent a message to Tony Clark of Great Lakes Modular. And here is his reply:

Hey Tony,

Where is the best place to get power and ground for these boards. It's a Bride of Pinbot, early WPC.

I know the coil trigger is the single wire on the coil for the slingshot.

His Reply:
For the 20V supply, any flasher in the game will have 20V for power. The Billion flasher (Sol. 17 on BOP) is probably the closest to the slingshots. Usually it is a red wire that feeds 20V to the flasher sockets.

Ground is a little tricky, as many earlier WPC games didn't use many electronic boards which use it. BOP does have the chase light board which uses ground, and also the motor regulator/driver board (which operates the face motor). If those aren't convenient, I have also had customers wire to the playfield hinge pivot bracket as this is usually grounded through the cabinet ground braid. I generally don't like that practice, but it might be easier than hacking into a wiring harness.

Hopefully that helps. If you need any further assistance, please let me know.

I'll be showing how I'm planning to implement this when I get a chance.

OK - Here's what you asked for in a LOT of pictures.

First, I had to open one of the holes by removing one of the GI lamps below the slings. I soldered and shrink tubed the connections so they don't short:
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The two grounds on both light boards are tied together and turned into a single wire. The wires are wrapped together:
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Then soldered:
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Then shrink tubing is put on and the tubing is shrunk with a heat gun:
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Wire ties are put on to tie the new wires into the wiring harness:
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Purple is the trigger wire for the flash on the light boards so they are tied to the coil on the side with the single wire:
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The 20V wires are tied together on each side and Y-Connected to a single wire that...
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is tied to the flasher bulb on the side with the two red wires:
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Trifurcon pins are used in the new 156 connector we'll tie the ground in.
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This is the connector on the light chase board that we're grabbing the ground from. The black wire is our ground (I checked it with the schematic):
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The two gray wires are on the far right of the connector (12V) even though they were in pin 3 and 5 before. Pin 3 has a key in it and nothing was connected to it, so I ran both wires to pin 5:
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Lay the pin in the crimping too like this (in the "B" and with the end sticking out):
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Insert the stripped ends of the wires in so they are snug with the insulation sitting in the uncrimped part.
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move over to A and clamp down on the insulation:
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Now both wires are attached to the pin:
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The connector is completed and replaced:
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Sorry if you looked at the last post while I was creating it. It took a while to get all of the pictures and text to jive.

Thanks. I manually focused the camera most of the time. Tricky with one hand!

Oh, and the ground wires from both sides were "Y'd" together so there was only one additional wire on the 156 connector.

I jumped ahead and finished the playfield. I started putting all of the wires back in the game last night because when I got the game, I had to remove the head to get it out of where it was. The playfield will go back in tonight. I'll try and grab a few pics.

OK - I got the game back together and unfortunately, I didn't bother to change the bulbs in the helmet so I have to fix that, but overall, everything works including the star-post lights/flashers. The LEDs in the pops are a little brighter than I thought they would be but they are the ones shaped like bulbs from Pinball Life so they don't look terrible. I like the colored incandescents below the inserts in the wheel. I may swap all of the insert lights out with colored bulbs.

Also, one of the connectors on the driver board must have burned up so they cut the thing in half and they replaced the wires in two connectors next to each other. Thing is, they got the new half wrong with the wires in the wrong order. Using pictures a friend sent (and ones I found here on Pinside), I was able to put a new Trifurcon connector back on. I had already replaced the pins on the board when I had it out so I guess it was a bad situation. Now it's all shiny and new!

I'm having a League night at my house this weekend so the pics might be a little delayed but it's looking pretty good!

I feel like I have $10,000 in this already... It's not that much but it is more than $5K already. Crazy.

Finally, All of the wiring was finished:
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Attached the playfield while it was still on the rotisserie
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All fired up and almost ready to play...
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Some more to come.

So I get it all assembled and I play it. Everything seems OK, but the head never moves from speak to eyes. And when it's suppose to happen, the sound cuts out. Weird, Right? So I check all of the switches and it seems good. And the head test works fine with the head switch functioning. I call a friend who has the game and he thinks it's CPU board related. I tell him that there is an L-7 ROM in the coin box and I'll try that first. I try it and the board won't boot (it was running on L-5). I have a spare WPC-89 CPU board so I put the L-7 on that and the game comes up and works fine (I know of the L-7 bug). So the plan is to put an L-6 ROM on the original board and make it boot. But in the mean time, it works and it's been moved to it's new place in the gameroom. Good to have 12 games back in that room again!

I'm thinking it's jumpered wrong for the larger ROM... I don't know. When I get the L-6 ROM burned, I'll check the board then. If it works, great, if not, I'll take the ASIC out and get a Rottondog to put it in. Either way, when BOP 2.0 comes out, I won't need it anyway, so I'll end up with two spares! I have 5 other WPC-89 games so they are spares worth having!

I've alerted Dutch Pinball and they know I plan to display it, so my fingers are crossed!