Hello all,
I just got my DH back in my house from my brothers and none of the flashers are working.
I did a search and most threads seemed to be involving LEDs and that isn't the case here.
I checked the J107 seating and it didn't change anything...fuses "seem" to be fine by pulling them out and replacing with new ones, but flashers no worky.

We had major reset issues with this machine and after replacing all the BR & caps and it fixed it...I believe that was the power board...but now this. There is a small cap on the driver board and just wondering if that's a normal culprit...or any other help you can give.

Thanks!

Bump. Need to stop posting questions at midnight

Ok thanks guys...here's what i found. The 20V TP I tested reads a .484...I don't know what the heck that means. The 12V TP tests 11.99, and 5V tests 5.06 so I would guess I'm on the correct setting.

I can fix anything mechanical under the hood but I'm just learning the electronic aspect so thank you for your patience.

Should I be able to jam the testers in a ground + flasher bulb socket? Would that tell me if there is juice going to the sockets? Silly I know.

Another "post made at midnight" bump.

Yeah, even I felt that had to be way off.

Yep I pulled out & tested some fuses with the MM and got continuity. I'm not sure exactly what fuse it would be, but I checked the fuses around the J107 plug which is the flasher molex I believe. I also turned the machine on and tested the solder points of the fuse holders. They all seemed to be fine.
I got sidetracked half way through so I don't think I tested all 5 of the fuses next to each other on the driver board.

OK so got some more testing done. Pins 5&6 of J107 should have high power coming through them but they don't...also still getting shotty results at TP7, so this all makes sense.
Brother helped me figure out that there should be an LED #5 lit up if working correctly. I found this hidden LED that isn't lit or labeled, so I'm ASSuming that's LED #5.
This leads to the fact that there's prob an issue on either Cap C11, or BR4. C11 looks new and we prob replaced it before, but BR4 looks old I'm that seems like the place to be testing.
So this weekend I'm going to take off the board and check the continuity between C11 & BR4. Hopefully...that is what i should be doing

LED5.JPG

OK so I tested the Continuity Betwixed the negative on BR4 with Negative on C11 & also the overall negative to the board....and no beepy. BR5 and cap 11 both have beep with overall ground.
I am getting betwixed 400-600 reading on both BR4&5 negatives & positives testing them in diode mode with with their respective AC legs. So I guess that means BR4 is the bad guy in this.

You think that's better than just swapping out the BR which I can go get? I might I have to do it again anyway?
Thanks for the help.

Gotcha, thanks Borygard.

OK thanks to everyone that helped out here!

So to recap everything.
No flashers worked, no continuity betwixed negative on BR4 with Negative on C11 nor negative to the board ground, even though I was getting a 400-600 (good) reading on both BR4 negatives & positives testing them in diode mode with with their AC legs.
Borygard told me to jumper Negative from BR4 to negative of C11.
Jumpered it and it works 100%.

Hope this helps others out. Thanks guys!

Well well this issue came up again on my W?D and the same jump fixed it again.