(Topic ID: 21402)

1st Timer - PF Touchup/Clear Advice Needed **COMPLETE**

By S37VEN

11 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Drano
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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    Orb_Touched_Up.JPG
    Orb_Wear.JPG
    Tiger_Loop_Touched_Up.JPG
    Tiger_Loop_Wear.JPG
    Bazaar_Touch_Up.JPG
    Bazaar_Touch_Up.JPG
    Bazar_Damage.JPG
    Insert_Damage.jpg
    #1 11 years ago

    So I recently purchased my first pin and learned a valuable lesson: Never buy your first pin sight unseen unless it's NIB.

    First pic shows the Bazaar scoop which had three layers of mylar with a slightly offcenter overlay that was severely interferring with ball play. I removed the mylar using a hairdryer and goo gone. Some of the inserts and PF art pulled up, but what was hidden underneath almost made me puke (see second pic).

    So I decided to touch this playfield up myself. I have ZERO experience in doing this but thought I could give it a good go.

    I used acrylics to touch up the areas around the Bazaar inserts and left edge of the scoop after sanding down gobs of epoxy. Now I need to lightly sand down the acrylic layer (after a few more touchups - lower PF overlay to cover the "R" and below is on its way) and apply some type of clear over the art (and eventual insert decals when they arrive).

    My question is what type of spot clear should I use? I plan on painting the clear with a brush, but I am a bit afraid of getting a cloudy finish using brush strokes. Has anyone applied clear over touchups using a brush before?

    Thanks for any input.

    Insert_Damage.jpgInsert_Damage.jpg Bazar_Damage.JPGBazar_Damage.JPG

    #2 11 years ago

    Couldn't get this image to upload in original post...

    Bazaar_Touch_Up.JPGBazaar_Touch_Up.JPG

    #3 11 years ago

    This pin didn't happen to come from Texas did it?
    I remember looking at a very similar TOTAN not too long ago as a restoration project and walked away due to all the mylared overlays present. The one I was looking at had at least 2-3 that I could make out.

    Honestly, this is waay too much work to restore if you've never done it before. Sure, you can get a sheet of insert decals (make sure they are the non-laminated variety) but they won't help with the painted areas outside of the inserts.

    If you got it really cheap, you could possibly send the playfield out for proffessional restoration... but you're probably looking at $1500 min; if it's even possible.

    If you really want to spot clear, I guess a can of Varathane will do the trick... or just apply a single layer of Mylar over the touch-up.

    Good luck.

    #4 11 years ago

    This is the one from Texas! The 3rd pic (my 2nd post) are my touchups to the areas around the Bazaar inserts. I am waiting to receive the reverse laminated insert decals.

    #5 11 years ago

    In a perfect world, you would clearcoat the whole playfield.
    Since you're new to the hobby, a full strip-down might seem excessive.

    It's a player pin. Just cover up what you can and enjoy it. Maybe someone will come up with a repro playfield soon. I heard CPR was trying, but many of the inserts are impossible to find.

    #6 11 years ago

    Did I read that right that you did the touchups over that pink area by hand? That's pretty bloody good looking work for someone with no experience if that's the case... if there was one nitpick, it's that the circles around the inserts aren't round. You need like some kind of tiny little template to make perfect circles.

    #7 11 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    You need like some kind of tiny little template to make perfect circles.

    The decals he ordered should have the circles on them. He needs to scrape the entire insert bare.
    If the ring goes past the insert, buy some frisket film to lay over the playfield and use a circle template and exacto knife to cut out a perfect inside and outside circle. Paint into the stencil and then peel off the frisket. Should look pretty clean after that.

    EDIT:
    Do this prior to installing the decal

    #8 11 years ago

    Frax - many thanks -- I did that pink area (sharpie bleeding?) as well as all the other areas worn down to the wood from the "B" insert on down by hand - it was a painstakingly slow process. I wasn't too concerned about the circles because the decals do have a black ring around them that I hope cleans up the lines a bit.

    Drano - you make a good point I will go back and try to clean up the inserts a bit more. I know this thing won't be NEAR perfect, but as long as it is "mostly" eye clear I'll be happy.

    #9 11 years ago
    Quoted from S37VEN:

    I did that pink area (sharpie bleeding?) as well as all the other areas worn down to the wood

    If you used a sharpie, be careful with using clearcoat of any kind. You may make the ink run.

    Test it on a scrap piece of material first to see how the clearcoat behaves with the sharpie.

    #10 11 years ago

    I was guessing that the pink area I painted over was pink because of someone possibly using a sharpie in the past. I read up on these forums before I started this about using sharpies - I didn't use any.

    I did some other minor touchups in less conspicuous areas -- I'll test those with the clear first.

    #11 11 years ago

    good work repainting that hand. it doesn't look like you had too much to work with

    1 week later
    #12 11 years ago

    Completed the orb saucer and tiger loop magnet touchups this weekend. Thanks to everyone for their advice. I used acrylics, several coats of polycrylic and 1500 grit sandpaper to even out the worn areas. Now to test whether these areas hold up.

    Tiger_Loop_Wear.JPGTiger_Loop_Wear.JPG Tiger_Loop_Touched_Up.JPGTiger_Loop_Touched_Up.JPG Orb_Wear.JPGOrb_Wear.JPG Orb_Touched_Up.JPGOrb_Touched_Up.JPG

    #13 11 years ago

    Very nice work for your first attempt!
    Enjoy the pin!

    #14 11 years ago

    Looks amazing considering what you had to work with. I'm inspired.

    #15 11 years ago

    Nice job!

    #16 11 years ago

    Thanks for the positive feedback! Now if only I could get that entire column of switches under U20-15 to work

    #17 11 years ago
    Quoted from S37VEN:

    Thanks for the positive feedback! Now if only I could get that entire column of switches under U20-15 to work

    Look on the bright side. I dont know what you paid, but when I originally looked at buying this pin it was a great deal. Once you've got these small issues sorted out, you'll have a very reasonable TOTAN on your hands.
    Nothing worse than overpaying for a project pin.

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