Ok, I've dived into the Dixieland I recently picked up and have lowered down my problem to the coin door as most probably expected based on experience and technical stuff from the Internet.

So if I unplug the jones plug for the coin door it stops. I do not yet have the schematic, but plan on getting one shortly as the Ohio Show is only a few weeks away.

My coin door has been "adjusted" by one of the previous owners and it has not yet worked ever properly as the game will start, but it resets all the time seemingly randomly.

I took a picture of the wiring job and I've also chased down the wires with my DMM and will post a picture of what I am seeing. Pinwiki and Clay both have some pretty good information on moving around 110 to the coin door and I want to do that ASAP, but need some help there as well.

First here is the yellow coming from the transformer tap in - or truthfully almost directly from the wall outlet. As you can see from the 2 orange connectors the wall comes directly into 6 of these wires.

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Here is the Jones plug and the work I did with a DMM to figure out where these were coming from on the coin door.

Jones.png

Does anyone have a similar late 60's Bally coin door who could share what wiring probably should be set up?

Thanks,

Thanks Pin-It. What would your recommendation be for troubleshooting? If I put the DMM on the 2 coin's and depress the micro switch it passes continuity, however there is 110 running to that switch as well and that just scares me from messing with it.

Pin-it,

I am attempting to remove my 110 from the front door and jones plugs to do the tests you indicated. With the current situation and the score motor always running, the start relay in the backbox sticks. If I manually unstick this and actuate the switch on the ball lane exit gate to the playfield the hold relay fires and the game begins.

My thoughts before moving forward with your directions were to first:

1. Replace the original Bally fuse holders as the under playfield and the main were broken and the one on the transformer (main) was completely missing and hardwired. This is done.

2. Remove the 110 from the front door for safety. This is where I am at.

I was following the directions on pinwiki for adding a on/off switch and adjusting the wiring:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Adding_an_On.2FOff_Switch_to_an_EM

This is where I am getting confused, as the person here indicates that the wires from the hold relay need to be removed and soldered together and run to one pole of the switch. I have 3 wires on one lug and 2 on the other. Should I be considering this or is that more applicable to another model machine? Should I worry about the 110 on the door or continue troubleshooting.

I am attaching a picture of the wires on the hold relay.

Thanks

skitch_hold_relay.png

Thanks bigbadford91, unfortunately I think that one is for the Bally Dixieland Bingo, not pinball

I am going to try the pictures that Pin-It said with the jones and as you described on your knockout shortly.

Again thanks to you both for the help.

That is correct

After doing this, the score motor does not run at all. The start button seems to have no impact.

I got the power switch hooked up fine.

So during the Pin-it testing, I did fine the "culprit" set of wires that causes the score motor to run. It also enables the lights. Here is what I did:

1. Disconnected the backbox completely from the lower playfield.
2. As I was going through the alligator clips to the jones, I found that one set, the yellow and red pair that was twisted to the white wire when disconnected caused the score motor to stop. With these disconnected the score motor either doesn't run or just runs for about 2 seconds. But, there are no GI lights at all with them disconnected.

The top 2 wires here are soldered together. I believe they correspond completely to the switch that was removed from the door by a previous owner. This appears to be a normally closed switch for slam tilt. I believe they took the 3 wires from this normally closed switch and simply cut them and twisted them together. They did this for both mechanisms (slam-tilts?) that were on the front door. Obviously for some reason one of them is causing the score motor to run continuously. The wire that gets connected is the white, which is the top left on my diagram from above that listed it as 110 Hot (potentially incorrectly).

Another thing I have observed, that may be potentially unrelated, is that when the backbox is hooked up, the reset relay gets stuck on when the score motor is running. I thought that was logically normal, but wanted to check, as I had generally thought that the completion of the score reels to the zero position would indicate a full reset. The numbers do in fact reset to 0 when the game is started.

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Ok thanks everyone. I finally got around to working on this and got it mostly up to speed. I wired a switch per pinwiki and also nailed down the continuous score motor to dirty score wheels.

Funny I cleaned the reels and it still ran so I bought the schematic. Then I go to show someone the problem and pulled the reels, did nothing other then reseat them and its been consistently working since. Thanks everyone for the pointers, I feel like I am learning quite a bit.

I bought a few more EM's